wildeagle44

Hi. As title need an fpr or whole fuel rail. Standard only please. Will pickup asap Ben 0425 352 534

Does it have an ignitor?

Used in a drift car. So high revs constantly. Makes 260kw so not huge power.

Right so i should really only be putting on a 25, 26 or 30 pump? As these would flow the same if not more? I'll pull the 25 pump off and measure first. Trying hard to steer clear of an n1 simply because of the crank collar.

Just like to get a confirmation before I go ahead and buy another pump. Are rb oils pumps interchangable. Specifically rb20,rb25 and rb30. I don't want an N1 as i don't have a crank collar and I can get a standard rb20 pump at a good price.. Found this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/123932-interchangeable-parts/ which says yes but double checking before I commit. Thanks

Honestly I don't, I bought a new gauge anyway and will most likely run them both. Had a good read of all of it. I've already got the fittings to do it, even if it just acts as a sump breather then it's better than nothing. Thanks man, new bearings are sitting here ready to go on tomorrow anyway. Pump is off tomorrow too. Would like to replace it but will see what it's like. Bearings are getting done tomorrow. I'd love to do a rebuild but it's a large expense I can't afford at the moment. I will of course one day, just hoping to get what I can out of it now before I take that path. Destructive is an understatement. Thanks For the input!

There was no knocking sound that I could hear afterwards. Didn't want to run the engine for more than a couple seconds incase somthing was up. Will check everything out today and see if there is any damage. Ordered an oil restrictor and some fittings for a head drain last night so it will be done before motor goes back in. Going to check out sump options now. Cheers

Crank looked alright to me and bearings had not moved. There was no rod knock that i could hear after it happened. I just assumed the worst. Have not looked at the oil pump yet. Was likely going to opt for a new one anyway. Was holding about 5500-6000 rpm i dont like getting near limiter if possible. Motor has done 2 sprint days and about 11 drift days now and this is my first engine issue.

Hello SAU Need a bit of guidance as to what needs to be done. Haven't checked any of this stuff before so it's a learning experience. Long story short - Drifting 3rd gear full boost and I saw oil pressure drop, turned off car immediately and rolled back into pits. Did a quick start, Oil pressure was back up put it on the trailer and that was it. Pulled motor today to check the damage. These are pictures of the bearing cap and bottom half of bearing. In my opinion it's the worse of the lot. Do I replace it or it it ok to go back in? Bearing Cap Bearing What do you guys think? Also if it's bad, Can I just pull the crank and pistons out, replace/machine crank if need be and new bearings. Do I need to do anything with the pistons and rods? Like adjust or replace rings? Get anything checked? Or can I just bolt the rods back to the crank and put it back in no worries? Thanks all.

Bump

All parts located seven hills sydney. Can post at Buyers expense. Paypal, bank deposit and cash ok. R33 tie rods - $20 pair R33 castor arms with offset bushes - $30 pair Offset bushes give you a bit more castor. R33 lower control arms - $90 pair R33 driver side wheel hub, sway bar link and upright - $30 R33 rear seats top and bottom - $10 RB25DET S1 coil pack cover - $15 RB25DET S1 intercooler pipe, turbo to side mount with nipple - $5 SCA 12v boat winch with cables - $35 Came with car trailer, have never used it, previous owner did once Slightly negotiable on prices. Everything is in reasonable condition. Had it all as spare but my motor went pop so need to sell off some stuff. PM and I'll get back to you

Let me know how comp on the motor comes out. How many kms on it?

Hi, so my r33 gtst has lost power steering. Bought a z32 nisstuned ecu and installed in the car. I know that mods need to be done to enable power steering in the r33's so I thought of course thats the culprit. Pulled it apart and all the necessary modifications have been done correctly, checked with a multimeter and everything came back good. HICAS is removed so I tried bridging power to the hicas pins on the ecu plug and that didnt work either. There are no leaks, the resovior has fluid, belt is in good condition. Tried jacking up and steering full lock left to right to pull fluid through but still nothing. I'm still leaning towards a problem with the ecu but I couldnt find a reason why it shouldn't be working? Any help is muchly appreciated.

Sent you a pm

Same here, just got mine

Paid and pm

i'm in YJ-RB2025-S1

Pm'd

I'll take the z32. Emailed you.

If your willing to seperate i'd be interested in the turbo + z32 afm.

Price on wheels?

pm sent

Can you pm some contact details please. Interested in a bunch of things.