wildeagle44

Only under load only or free revving too?

Hi all As per title. Looking for rb bellhousing to suit os-88 sequential. Will pay postage. Please pm

Auto ecu shouldnt matter I would check by plugging a computer into the consult port, there might be a way to check with a multimeter, maybe look up the service manual. Only other things i can think of are check for boost leaks or a blocked cat converter.

Is the car tuned or stock? I’d be checking the timing or having a look at the knock sensors. Recently filled up with fuel? Could be a bad batch. Also check the coolant temp sensor.

Was your flywheel new? Or if used have you had it surfaced?

Use the loom and ecu that suits the engine Using an s1 loom on a neo engine you will need to swap cas plug + wires, vct plug, injector plugs, aac, iacv, delete ignitor,

Had an issue with TPS wiring that caused somthing similiar. Would throw a code on the haltech though?

Check for boost leaks, test your coolant sensor, what fuel pump do you have?

I used to use achilles 123’s then went to kuhmo KU31 or KU36 up front as steer tyres. Ran some china tyres up front over the weekend and they worked great. No idea about tyre suppliers in vic. I usually ebay mine unless there is a matsuri special on. Gktech or PBM have some decent gear. You might struggle to find much front end wise for an R31 aside from lock washers/spacers. If i was staying R31 i’d do an s13 front suspension swap.

FPR should be set to 3 bar base pressure

Sounds like rod knock

If you heard it then good chance it was the fork or pivot breaking

Maybe bypass the knock sensors? Could be pulling timing. Does it happen in every gear?

I'm pretty sure i've seen somewhere on FB that golebys confirms they are not genuine coils in their kits.

Not sure what you could do about fixing them. But here is a photo of what i did to mine for larger wiring. Maybe you could do somthing similiar.

I had a similiar problem but they eventually worked their way in. Perhaps put them in the freezer?

Not currently no, just running basic oil system to iron out any bugs before i put a sandwich plate and cooler back in.

Hi Guys I'm a bit stumped on this one. Have just put a freshened up motor in the car (rings, standard bearings etc) and ran the motor properly for the first time. Starts and idles perfectly, oil pressure starts at 80psi when cold and slowly goes down to about 38psi after it gets upto temp. As oil temp climbs to 90 degrees the oil pressure quickly goes up about 20psi in 30 seconds and then gradually climbs to 80psi again until i turn it off. After it cools for an hour the process repeats itself. I have checked and changed oil filter and the turbo drain but couldn't see an issue. Oil is Castrol 15w-40. I have installed a new nissan oil pump and are using the rb30 oil stud with heat exchanger removed. Head and block have been decked, using standard head gasket and bolts. Previously with this engine oil pressures were fine, idled at about 30psi pressure. All the cylinders and plugs were dry, compression came back fine also. At a bit of a loss as to what to do. I thought maybe the pump pressure relief valve but that wouldn't explain the pressure rising after it get hot? Will drop the oil tomorrow and inspect for anything suspicious. Perhaps be a blockage somewhere? Any help or tips would be appreciated.

Legend thanks mate. Will pull it all out again and recheck

Sorry to re bump V but i think im having the exact same problem. Did a crankshaft swap in my motor. Bolted it all in and together but cant select gears when its running. Had the box back out, rechecked clutch, fork, bearing etc and all were good. Put back in and no good. When you say 'cut 5mm off the end of that shaft' what shaft are you referring to? The crankshaft? Input shaft? If you could describe it a bit more that would be great.

All sorted thanks guys

Rb25det Neo, 25det block or crank Hi looking to buy either of the following rb25det neo complete 25det neo block (relatively complete) or 25det crankshaft located in sydney, happy to travel or pay postage for the right items pm please

I'll have a dig around for the receipt for the threaded plug. Cant remember the size, i just took the fitting with me to get matched up. The plug for the filter housing hole is about 18.5mm. Ended up getting a 3/4in welch plug and ground it down a touch and used some sealant. No leaks so looks good so far.

A bit of a late reply but having done i'll share a few bits. Drove and drifted an r33 gtst regularly for about 14 months with minimal issue. Do suspension mods only. Aside from a front mount and radiator don't touch the engine, thats when problems arise. Put a good clutch in from the start A good diff, suspension arms and diff and it will handle great. Keep spares of as much as you can. Namely axles, lca's and tie rods will make up most of your breakages. Watch your temps and regular maintenance and you should be fine for the most part, it's drifting though, eventually you will crash, break a gearbox and ruin a motor so be prepared.

I have that model racelid minus the duck bill. Fairly decent. I found the visor lock tabs to be a bit poorly designed. Tinted/colour visor options are also limited. Definately go try them on though. I had a bit of trouble finding a comfortable car helmet before getting this. No experience with HANS though