CRSKmD

After over 4 months my Project μ HC+ pads finally arrived. there was a series of delays on top of the long lead time. For some reason the Rear pads got put on a boat and the fronts put on a plane... and then the rears came in first fronts installed with a quick clean of hardware rears in mounted with fresh DBA T3 rotors

yes but ITB wank factor haha

yeah the end is looking closer now! I did it with a hand, we carefully lowered it in. Did manage to bump against the firewall but that covered by the trim and out of sight anyway.

thank you! i tried to do a clean up without going too overboard. i think i found a happy medium

first up the Auto spigot bush needed to be removed. i tried the hydraulic (grease or bread) technique but no luck. i think this works best with the manual ones The method i ended up using thanks to R31 forums and Gavin from Garage 7 Items needed: 1xDyna bolt 20mm OD 1x big washer 1x decent weight that fits Put the dynabolt into the auto bush and tap it in gently tighten it up as much as possible remove nut slide over weight and washer. re attach nut go to town using it as a slide hammer pulling the weight towards you. it took me a solid 10mins with the little weight i had but it came free. a heavier weight may work better. new manual spigot bush soaking in oil then got put in, The rear main seal was also done at this time. time for the motor to go in motor in sunlight shot bay starting to go back together with cleaned up washer bottles and radiator

while the motor was out the car i also went ahead and replaced the funky under plenum hoses with fresh ones gave the accessories a scrub and a half to removed the 5mm thick layer of grime motor is now ready to come off the stand. do the rear main seal, clutch and flywheel. Then drop it into the bay and scratch up all my nice paint

awwwww. but cheers. i'm really happy with the result and for only $250

do you mean: 1. the motor is too clean to have a cut and shut and should have something else or 2. the cut and shut job was well done if 1. pls sponsor me a plazmaman

huge dump of pictures coming up. after weighing up options for plenums including stock, RB26 ITB and modded stock i decided id go for a cut and shut as i wanted to keep the long runners and could not justify a plazmaman. after cut and welded. no paint the odd massive chamfered edge at the TB was because i originally wanted to have the TB flipped to run the cable around the outside. Like so this was for two main reasons. 1. to give my self more clearance under the TB for the stock FPR and 2. to try and use the existing throttle cable. how ever it looked ugly AF. flipping it gave me less room but still enough to clear everything... or so i thought (more on this later) got the top section cut down and it now looked a lot nicer cleaned up the fuel rail and it somehow has a neo chrome look now haha runners cleaned up and rail installed goes to bolt on the plenum and TB when suddenly so i cut this de-icing bit of the TB off as it was no longer going to be used but it still did not clear enough not wanting to grind back the fpr i relocated it i used the fuel damper holder to remount the regulator and plumbed it up to have the flow as stock. what i think happened between the original clearance check and the final mounting is i checked without the Xpurt 1000cc injectors installed. once installed they were slightly longer than stock, could just be the rubbers being new which rotated the rail and pushed the fpr up enough to foul.

@Jordy32 where did you get the hose from for the prices shown in the screen shot?

I went away so this is still a future me problem.

6/8 line up the two middle ones on the drivers side don’t. If it bothers me I was gonna make an adapter tab up for them so all holes have fasteners

there was a set on yahoo japan the other week but they were rough and $800AUD

i bought ISC COils in 2013. I have had no issues but having been in cars with various MCA setups id say do it right the first time

While im waiting on seals and trying to work out hoses for the Neo I put my attention onto brakes. I had picked up a set of Brembos in average condition. gave them a sand back and primer same 3 layer pearl paint as seen on bay and covers stickered up sunlight shot some comparison between the GTS-T 4 pots that came off. Interestingly the Rears have a smaller casting despite the larger piston, disc thickness and pad. Pad comparions In before "the 2k paint isn't heat proof" I am aware but should still hold up as well as the old rattlecan paint did over 4 years. unfortunately my rotors are still on the way in and the new pads are still a while off so now my car has strong Fast and Furious vibes #JesseAintGotNothingOnMe

awesome help. @NEO25T are they factory neo heater lines straight onto an R32 shell? if so were the ID/OD matching

where do you live?

can anyone confirm about the back fo block to heater core hoses bieng different size/shape

@Jordy32 Legend thanks

Not sure if correct place admin please move if needed. Half way through a RB25DET neo into R32 swap and needing to replace the heater and other hoses. from what i can gather the RB25DET Neo heater hoses are what i need but please correct me if i am wrong. apart from OEM what options are out there. i have found Misc eBay ones mainly listing RB26 or R33 25 and JJR do not list a Neo kit.

purely commenting to stay up to date with cool finds

Got the correct water pump in. I was shocked from the customer service level of the online store They even sent me the correct one straight away before asking me to send back the wrong one and they said they will refund the return shipping. new water pump, idlers and timing belt fitted. yes it was all TDC when put on i had just cranked it over a few time to get the correct tension as per the service manual. Timing cover that came with the car was pretty yeah nah so picked up a nice fresh one i also sanded back the lettering on the RB20 coilpack cover

Got the manifold back from ceramic coat. decided to do it right this time and piss off the heat wrap. Had it done at Ceramic Coat Australia who do the coating for PaceMaker. no pictures of the process but they blast it with an aluminium medium bead blaster. Then the ceramic coat goes on follow by being baked. that collector though mock fitted up

i was in NZ about this time last year!

fantastic. i think i have seen this before? but commenting to stay subscribled