vxsr33

I would just save up for a while until you have a decent budget to spend and are able do get all the mods at once. In the meantime you can get a better understanding of what parts you want by reading up and asking the forum. You've got all the basic mods and should just enjoy the car for what it is in the meantime. Im guessing you recently got it?

Cant really afford to get another tune. I had a chat to the tuner and he said theres nothing that can be really done and its just a laggy turbo. Im happy with 250rwkw i would just have liked full boost to come on earlier. Im pretty sure its a highflow cat not sure what brand though. Also the wastegate actuator was set at 18psi. But it was opening up at around 13psi and they had to use a bleed valve to bring the boost up.

Looking for some feedback on my dyno graph. Is this normal because power and full boost seems to come on really late. Car is r33 gtst s2 manual Mods: -Hypergear op6 highflow ball bearing G3 profile. -power fc -xspurt 1000cc top feed injectors -walbro 255lph fuel pump -blitz return flow intercooler -full 3 inch exhaust - apexi pod and solid intake pipe mod -splitfire coilpacks - NGK sparkplugs 0.8mm

Mixed opinions i guess, i reckon mines pretty solid and better than stock.

I have the cube shortshifter on my r33 and honestly its pretty good. Its much tighter than the stock one and it feels nice and direct. Ive had mine installed for just under a year and it still feels great.

Tell me about it.[emoji58] It just shows you should ALWAYS do your homework when buying parts. Even when the person telling you to buy works on and tunes skylines for a living.

Pirellis sold. Nexen n6000 $60 for both

Bump. Turbo sold Gtt neo block pricedrop to $450

Yeah thats true, seems to be inconsistent across different workshops. Im assuming dealerships and reputable workshops would be more strict and would closely follow the documentation. The place we got the roady from told us the engine bay looked too modified to be legal but told us they would pass it anyways. Since we explained the car was going to be garaged and not driven for a few months i think they were a bit more lenient.

The rs3s also dont make a lot of road noise which is good. Hardsteppa, i will check out the RSRR next time i need a new set of tyres. Thanks

Went to 2 places yesterday. One downright refused as soon as he saw the cooler. The other had a look at the car and said it looked fine but he said windscreen might need replacing. Went to another place today and they passed it straight away. $150 was paid.

Need a roadworthy for a car with a hole cut out for intercooler. Car in question is r33 gtst. Car is very clean, not too low and doesnt look like copbait. If you know any places in melbourne (preferably western suburbs) that are more "lenient" with roadys, could you please pm me. The car will be sitting in the garage and not driven for about 3 or 4 months after the roadworthy. Thanks sam

Thanks for this, nahh i dont have an afr guage. Disconnected all the wiring from the relay and reconnected. It seems to be running better, im just gonna leave it as is and let the tuner sort it out when i take it it.

Car has a power fc however its not fully tuned as the car wasnt getting enough fuel above 10psi on the dyno. Hence me doing the fuel pump rewire to help contribute towards fixing the issue.

Walbro 255 and power fc. Car needs to be tuned though

I was working on the car today and i notice that the car idles rougher at idle with the fuel pump relay mod than with the standard wiring. I measured the voltage with the relay mod and it was 14.2v Normal wiring is 13.75v Can the fuel pump relay mod cause rougher idle, im pretty sure ive done it correctly?

I put my stock reg back on today and immediately the fuel pump made a horrible squealing noise on startup and while running. The car idles like crap and stalled. So I put my tomei reg back on and the car started up and idled normally with no abnormal fuel pump noise. I have 1000cc injectors with a aeroflow topfeed rail on a r33 gtst. So im guessing the stock reg can't cope well at idle?

I ended up getting rs3's all round in 235/45/17. Very happy with them, the grip and turn in response is amazing and i found them to be good in the wet too.

Bump, make an offer. Worst i can say is no

You have to use a neo head. If you use a standard head with neo block the comp ratio will be way off and too low. Neo head and standard rb25det heads have different chamber volumes. I learnt this the hard way

Thanks for the help everyone. I ended up finding the grey wire was the ground. So for a r33 gtst s2 (at least mine anyways) the active is the light blue wire and the ground is the grey wire. I did the fuel pump relay mod with the help of the guides on this forum and some other sources online. I know this is piss easy for some but i have no idea when it comes to wiring and such so it was confusing, but it finally clicked and i enjoyed putting it all together. Turned the key with fingers crossed and immediately noticed the fuel pump priming was louder. Car started perfectly. Going to neatly tuck away wiring tomorrow and check voltage. Thanks again guys

Im also interested in one of these. Only place ive found that makes them is knight racer but they are in the uk.

I picked up a multimeter. How do i find which wire is active and which is ground?

I don't have a multimeter unfortunately.

Ive searched and it says the active is light blue and the ground is white. I have a light blue and a grey instead of white. Im guessing the grey would be the ground, was just hoping someone could confirm.