Jump to content
SAU Community

niZmO_Man

Members
  • Posts

    10,004
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    32
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by niZmO_Man

  1. Bolt-on spacers should be fine. They're the same for any car, as long as it's 66.1mm hub centric there shouldn't be any issues. Your wheels might have the room on the mounting surface for the studs, but 20mm should cover the studs.
  2. They will be an improvement over standard and blue-tinted bulbs, but don't expect too much out of them, I've been there done that a few times haha. Still, am improvement is an improvement, and I found non-H4 reflectors respond better to better bulbs. Yes HID is heaps heaps brighter and you can point the lights down so it isn't causing too much glare, but put it up against a factory or retrofitted HID light and the difference is huge.
  3. That's why they're flashing you. Having "4,700K" lights (colour of the light) has nothing to do with it's brightness. You can try pointing your headlights down as much as you can (so you don't see much ahead of you), but it'll still cause glare. There are 8mm headed rods at the back of the headlight to adjust it. If it doesn't move, it's most likely either at end of thread (turn it the other way).
  4. Go to the gym and do cardio workouts. Improve your driving skills. Service the car to make it run better. Seriously wouldn't bother modding it much to make it "faster", just improve the grip/handling and improve your driving skills. I doubt the N/A would use more fuel under everyday driving conditions. If you stepped out of a turbo Skyline and into an N/A Skyline, of course it'll feel slower so you'll thrash it more.
  5. I have two spare pairs of R32 lights which I'll retrofit eventually... Maybe I should branch out onto R33s lol. 20% off is pretty good. The Osrams look to be pretty similar to the Narva blue plus 90, but about $10-20 cheaper delivered lol. I had LED parkers come in about a week from them so pretty good. Grab some Orsam 4000K parkers, you won't be disappointed with them.
  6. IF in Sydney && gunmetal grey THEN we swap? Lol
  7. Sucks mega hard. Any news on the criminals?
  8. I don't know much about the differences between the R33 series, I just know the S3 have HIDs. Retrofit is well worth the effort. You will not believe the difference in light output until you see it yourself. You can get the Morimoto H3 projector, which are pretty easy to install compared to other options. I've been through all this crap, buying different bulbs, HID kits and eventually doing the retrofit. R32 projectors are shithouse, worse than my R31 ones, so I was on a mission to get a setup that enabled me to see at night/during rain. You can get a cheap kit off ebay, throw them on and drive around thinking you have better lights. Stop at a set of traffic lights, have a factory HID equipped car stop beside you and you'll see the difference. If you don't want to modify, throw those blue plus 90 bulbs in. I found they do a pretty good job, put them in an N16 and N15 Pulsar (factory wires). The N16 headlights (H1) 'responded' better to the bulbs as they have a better design than N15 (H4). I expect the R33 to have a design as good as the N16 as they both run separate low and high beams.
  9. Found. Please close this thread.
  10. You don't like the N1 vents? Swap the bar with someone that wants them.
  11. OEM i.e. factory R33 HID headlights (would be sweet to get the ballasts as well). Retrofit = taking apart your lights, putting HID projectors, putting them back together. Costed me about $500 all up including buying R32 headlights and ballasts+bulbs. Like I said, try looking for factory HID headlights and get them installed. Literally bolt on for instant awesome lights. Haven't seen that listing before. I got this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4300K-35w-Rapid-Start-Slim-Digital-HID-Kit-OEM-White-XE-Instant-On-Ballast-Fast-/400289514421
  12. GKTech stuff is pretty good. Change to wider, grippier tyres. Get alignment parts (upper arms, castor arms). Wouldn't bother with the mounts unless they're stuffed.
  13. Suppose you can always turbo the car, upgrade brakes, suspension etc.
  14. Thursday night: In Liverpool, gunmetal R32 GT-R with what looked like bronze LMGT4s parked at Westfields near Myer. Also spotted a white R32 GT-R with dished shiny wheels, WKD-GTR or something plates. Tonight: Fairfield Anytime gym, white R32 GT-R with white Enkei PR01 wheels, Asian tanky dude
  15. HID kit in reflector headlights = forget it. Super glare-y, poor light distribution. Most cost effective = HID retrofit. Also require the most effort. With the bulb, I wouldn't bother going over 5,000K as it's all wank/ricer after that. Stick with 4300K as you can actually see at night/when it rains. You will get the blue flicker because that is produced by the cut-off shield, plus the light will be whiter. I recommend 'F3' fast-start ballast as they are pretty good for the price ($200 for a kit off ebay, if you go H1 projectors). If you want to just swap bulbs, try Narva Blue Power (or blue 90/whatever they're called now). Works well for what it is. Throw relays and thicker wiring on there as well, it helps. But seriously, OEM is obviously best (if you can get hold of them), then HID retrofit.
  16. Should be fine. Since you just got the car, I recommend doing a full service including a radiator flush.
  17. Smurf's blood = Redline Shockproof Lightweight
  18. HSD AD is great for the street. Even though they are 7/5, they are very comfortable for the rates (dampening I'd say). Bum-on-seat experience in my mate's S15. He has the dampers up past half way as well. Driven in Sydney.
  19. Full service of everything, wider/better tyres, suspension, brakes. Build driving experience, get full license. Sell it and get whatever you want.
  20. Probably a coil pack plug issue, but at least it's fixed now.
  21. Better off buying a VN Commodore and driving that until you have full license.
×
×
  • Create New...