niZmO_Man

Get a test light or multimeter, find battery and accessory wires (I forgot the colours but I think orange/black stripe is one of them), run the rest.

I managed to pull the rear turbo off. Short 13mm combo spanner helps with the dump pipe; tedious as hell. How the hell did you get the front turbo off? It looks impossible lol.

Sounds like dying AFMs

A relatively standard one that has been maintained properly will be fine. My 1990 GT-R hasn't missed a beat mechanically (AFMs issues were solved with solder fix). It just did its first track day hitting 7,000 rpm without issue. Been driving it almost daily for two years now. The 93/94 models got the updated crank (R33 crank) which addressed the oil pump failure issue.

R33 N/A brakes bolts straight on and should offer you some upgrade. Start by refreshing them (new rotors, good pads for your intended use, new fluid).

Think it's 20" for fronts and 14" for the rear, forgot the sizes I bought.

Cheers man. I guess I could replace the relay sitting next to it (HICAS?)

They are indeed LMGT2

Yesterday afternoon, spotted a white R34 with the factory wing and possible SAU stickers on the window in Artarmon. In the evening, a guy rocked up to my place in a nice silver R32 GT-R to drop a part my brother bought on ebay. Random much

Is that the Morimoto Mini H1? Here's how mine looks: The dark streaks are caused by the outside lens and probably crap on the projector lens (which I should have cleaned). Crappy phone picture, but you can see the spread and even beam. My other set are better.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-INDICATORS-MARKERS-BCNR33-BNR34-GTR-SKYLINE-GT-STAGEA-C34-R33-R34-/220885123141 http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-side-winker-marker-set-grey-smoke-type-nissan-zenki-56213

I've never put spacers on a GT-R, but assuming they have the same stud length as other Skylines, 20mm will cover the stud whereas 15mm doesn't. Can you run an extra 5mm? Have you had a look at the wheel's mounting surface? Aftermarket wheels tend to have depressions in them, which wouldn't cause an issue with exposed studs. 66.1mm hub > nice, snug fit. You tend to see 73mm or so hub diameters for a wider vehicle compatibility. Pretty easy to get hub rings. GKTech ones are made for Nissan hubs (66.1mm). If it really bothers you, you can always carefully cut the studs down (file the tips a bit so it centers the nuts when you put them on).

Some might appreciate cars in general, not just Skylines.

tl;dr - you will waste your money on a Z32 AFM + computer/nistune + tune. It is only required if your engine is maxing out the AFM (turbocharged engines running bigger turbo)

Worn mounts and/or rear end bushes

Location?

How long does it take to fire up? I've been using this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4300K-35w-Rapid-Start-Slim-Digital-HID-Kit-OEM-White-XE-Instant-On-Ballast-Fast-/400289514421 Quickest firing so far. Get ~70% light as soon as it's fired up and 30 seconds later the bulb is warm. I'm using Philips D2S bulbs and they take longer (need a heftier ballast i.e. OEM) to warm up compared to what came with the kit (10-15 seconds bulb is full warm, pretty impressive).

Try starting the car with the AFM unplugged.

Contact GSL Rallysport

So what is your question? What was the rebuild for? Why not just the HKS stuff as before?

Does it have a boost controller on it? If so, turn it down.

I know of a couple of people running them with no issues.

Bolt-on spacers should be fine. They're the same for any car, as long as it's 66.1mm hub centric there shouldn't be any issues. Your wheels might have the room on the mounting surface for the studs, but 20mm should cover the studs.

They will be an improvement over standard and blue-tinted bulbs, but don't expect too much out of them, I've been there done that a few times haha. Still, am improvement is an improvement, and I found non-H4 reflectors respond better to better bulbs. Yes HID is heaps heaps brighter and you can point the lights down so it isn't causing too much glare, but put it up against a factory or retrofitted HID light and the difference is huge.

That's why they're flashing you. Having "4,700K" lights (colour of the light) has nothing to do with it's brightness. You can try pointing your headlights down as much as you can (so you don't see much ahead of you), but it'll still cause glare. There are 8mm headed rods at the back of the headlight to adjust it. If it doesn't move, it's most likely either at end of thread (turn it the other way).