niZmO_Man

You don't like the N1 vents? Swap the bar with someone that wants them.

OEM i.e. factory R33 HID headlights (would be sweet to get the ballasts as well). Retrofit = taking apart your lights, putting HID projectors, putting them back together. Costed me about $500 all up including buying R32 headlights and ballasts+bulbs. Like I said, try looking for factory HID headlights and get them installed. Literally bolt on for instant awesome lights. Haven't seen that listing before. I got this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4300K-35w-Rapid-Start-Slim-Digital-HID-Kit-OEM-White-XE-Instant-On-Ballast-Fast-/400289514421

GKTech stuff is pretty good. Change to wider, grippier tyres. Get alignment parts (upper arms, castor arms). Wouldn't bother with the mounts unless they're stuffed.

Suppose you can always turbo the car, upgrade brakes, suspension etc.

Thursday night: In Liverpool, gunmetal R32 GT-R with what looked like bronze LMGT4s parked at Westfields near Myer. Also spotted a white R32 GT-R with dished shiny wheels, WKD-GTR or something plates. Tonight: Fairfield Anytime gym, white R32 GT-R with white Enkei PR01 wheels, Asian tanky dude

HID kit in reflector headlights = forget it. Super glare-y, poor light distribution. Most cost effective = HID retrofit. Also require the most effort. With the bulb, I wouldn't bother going over 5,000K as it's all wank/ricer after that. Stick with 4300K as you can actually see at night/when it rains. You will get the blue flicker because that is produced by the cut-off shield, plus the light will be whiter. I recommend 'F3' fast-start ballast as they are pretty good for the price ($200 for a kit off ebay, if you go H1 projectors). If you want to just swap bulbs, try Narva Blue Power (or blue 90/whatever they're called now). Works well for what it is. Throw relays and thicker wiring on there as well, it helps. But seriously, OEM is obviously best (if you can get hold of them), then HID retrofit.

Try claybar > polish > wax

Should be fine. Since you just got the car, I recommend doing a full service including a radiator flush.

Smurf's blood = Redline Shockproof Lightweight

HSD AD is great for the street. Even though they are 7/5, they are very comfortable for the rates (dampening I'd say). Bum-on-seat experience in my mate's S15. He has the dampers up past half way as well. Driven in Sydney.

Knew it!

Full service of everything, wider/better tyres, suspension, brakes. Build driving experience, get full license. Sell it and get whatever you want.

Probably a coil pack plug issue, but at least it's fixed now.

Better off buying a VN Commodore and driving that until you have full license.

I have a set of standard coil packs, $50. PM me if you're interested.

Top Gear is an entertainment show. Jeremy did his neck in one anyway.

Condition of AFM? My car did something similar but the issue got worse. Did the solder fix on the AFMs and it went back to being normal.

^ That. To add, you use cylinder #1. I use it to double-check the timing marks.

1994 model has R33 GT-R engine (crank design is different so the oil pump doesn't break). That's the gust of it. If you're not tracking your car/hitting high revs all the time, you'll be fine.

South east of what?

Pictures of the R32 GT-R front struts?

Have you degreased the area and then checked where the leaks are coming from? I reckon one of the hoses has split and is slowly leaking. AFAIK, the power steering should be the same. The HICAS setup is a bit different on the GT-R (Super HICAS), but not sure if any hardware, besides the computer, are different.

Why don't you get under the car or pull a wheel off and have a look? It can't be that hard.

Have you tried another pair of AFMs?

Timing should be spot on with the CAS around the 'middle'. Check it again, make sure you don't go off the belt. Get cylinder #1 at TDC using the screwdriver method as well as checking the markings on back plates (cams) and the crank/timing cover.