niZmO_Man

Is that the Morimoto Mini H1? Here's how mine looks: The dark streaks are caused by the outside lens and probably crap on the projector lens (which I should have cleaned). Crappy phone picture, but you can see the spread and even beam. My other set are better.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-INDICATORS-MARKERS-BCNR33-BNR34-GTR-SKYLINE-GT-STAGEA-C34-R33-R34-/220885123141 http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-side-winker-marker-set-grey-smoke-type-nissan-zenki-56213

I've never put spacers on a GT-R, but assuming they have the same stud length as other Skylines, 20mm will cover the stud whereas 15mm doesn't. Can you run an extra 5mm? Have you had a look at the wheel's mounting surface? Aftermarket wheels tend to have depressions in them, which wouldn't cause an issue with exposed studs. 66.1mm hub > nice, snug fit. You tend to see 73mm or so hub diameters for a wider vehicle compatibility. Pretty easy to get hub rings. GKTech ones are made for Nissan hubs (66.1mm). If it really bothers you, you can always carefully cut the studs down (file the tips a bit so it centers the nuts when you put them on).

Some might appreciate cars in general, not just Skylines.

tl;dr - you will waste your money on a Z32 AFM + computer/nistune + tune. It is only required if your engine is maxing out the AFM (turbocharged engines running bigger turbo)

Worn mounts and/or rear end bushes

Location?

How long does it take to fire up? I've been using this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4300K-35w-Rapid-Start-Slim-Digital-HID-Kit-OEM-White-XE-Instant-On-Ballast-Fast-/400289514421 Quickest firing so far. Get ~70% light as soon as it's fired up and 30 seconds later the bulb is warm. I'm using Philips D2S bulbs and they take longer (need a heftier ballast i.e. OEM) to warm up compared to what came with the kit (10-15 seconds bulb is full warm, pretty impressive).

Try starting the car with the AFM unplugged.

Contact GSL Rallysport

So what is your question? What was the rebuild for? Why not just the HKS stuff as before?

Does it have a boost controller on it? If so, turn it down.

I know of a couple of people running them with no issues.

Bolt-on spacers should be fine. They're the same for any car, as long as it's 66.1mm hub centric there shouldn't be any issues. Your wheels might have the room on the mounting surface for the studs, but 20mm should cover the studs.

They will be an improvement over standard and blue-tinted bulbs, but don't expect too much out of them, I've been there done that a few times haha. Still, am improvement is an improvement, and I found non-H4 reflectors respond better to better bulbs. Yes HID is heaps heaps brighter and you can point the lights down so it isn't causing too much glare, but put it up against a factory or retrofitted HID light and the difference is huge.

That's why they're flashing you. Having "4,700K" lights (colour of the light) has nothing to do with it's brightness. You can try pointing your headlights down as much as you can (so you don't see much ahead of you), but it'll still cause glare. There are 8mm headed rods at the back of the headlight to adjust it. If it doesn't move, it's most likely either at end of thread (turn it the other way).

Why not get Resma or QFM HPX?

Go to the gym and do cardio workouts. Improve your driving skills. Service the car to make it run better. Seriously wouldn't bother modding it much to make it "faster", just improve the grip/handling and improve your driving skills. I doubt the N/A would use more fuel under everyday driving conditions. If you stepped out of a turbo Skyline and into an N/A Skyline, of course it'll feel slower so you'll thrash it more.

I have two spare pairs of R32 lights which I'll retrofit eventually... Maybe I should branch out onto R33s lol. 20% off is pretty good. The Osrams look to be pretty similar to the Narva blue plus 90, but about $10-20 cheaper delivered lol. I had LED parkers come in about a week from them so pretty good. Grab some Orsam 4000K parkers, you won't be disappointed with them.

IF in Sydney && gunmetal grey THEN we swap? Lol

Sucks mega hard. Any news on the criminals?

I don't know much about the differences between the R33 series, I just know the S3 have HIDs. Retrofit is well worth the effort. You will not believe the difference in light output until you see it yourself. You can get the Morimoto H3 projector, which are pretty easy to install compared to other options. I've been through all this crap, buying different bulbs, HID kits and eventually doing the retrofit. R32 projectors are shithouse, worse than my R31 ones, so I was on a mission to get a setup that enabled me to see at night/during rain. You can get a cheap kit off ebay, throw them on and drive around thinking you have better lights. Stop at a set of traffic lights, have a factory HID equipped car stop beside you and you'll see the difference. If you don't want to modify, throw those blue plus 90 bulbs in. I found they do a pretty good job, put them in an N16 and N15 Pulsar (factory wires). The N16 headlights (H1) 'responded' better to the bulbs as they have a better design than N15 (H4). I expect the R33 to have a design as good as the N16 as they both run separate low and high beams.

Found. Please close this thread.

PM fatz

You don't like the N1 vents? Swap the bar with someone that wants them.