niZmO_Man

Since when were they ball bearing?

Out of those two, +27

My gauge sits pretty much at 0 almost all the time when I'm driving around normally. Only time it would go up is under hard acceleration or slippery conditions. As soon as it's disabled, rear wheels spin. So my system works, maybe not as lively as a new one (haven't flushed/bled it), but it still works after 20 years. I don't see any reason it should be sitting above 0 during as it's not meant to be transferring (as stated). If your gauge is above 0 all the time, you have problems, unless you're thrashing it literally all the time. Pretty simple and obvious. Note that your ATTESSA is being worn out a lot quicker, they're not designed to run all the time. Direct experience, my system randomly craps out now (warning lights, hissing from transmission, system disabled, have to power cycle the car, needs a bleed at the very least). Before I put mismatched tyres on, it worked fine with no issues.

Yeah you can stick the light in the oven for a few minutes @ ~100degC and the glue will melt. You should be able to pry off the lens and transfer it to your broken housing (assuming it's just the lens). Not sure if the lens are physically different (Xenon vs. Halogen headlights).

255 is pretty much vertical sidewall on a 9", so on an 8" it *should* be okay. I would go for it, you have enough sidewall height. It's a temporary measure to get you going anyway.

Factory specs I believe.

Yes that is true. But the small amount of front torque doesn't register on the gauge. Unless my ATTESSA is not working as well as it should, hence my question of how am I wrong to say that the needle should be at 0 until the car decides to send torque to the front wheels. I may sound like a dick online, but it's a genuine question lol. When I had 245/40 front and 245/45 rear tyres, every bump sent the gauge to ~10. I had to lift off so it would relax down to 0 again. Bit off topic, with the R33/R34 GT-R's, does the torque gauge read 0 during cruise, even though there is preload on the front wheels?

Have you had a look at the back of the headlight? Bulbs are a consumable, so they have to be relatively easy to reach/replace. Stick your hand down there and find out!

I should renew my membership. And, pay attention to the NRL games lol.

That was my point. If you want the auto-levelling function, good luck. Only way is to maybe find a wreck and hope everything works. FX-R is a big unit, but it goes into R32 housing with minimal fuss. I bought three! lol I also have H1 Mini and D2S Mini. I think the FX-R will struggle to fit into R31 projector.

AFM solder fix, or another working AFM.

255 is too wide for 8", 235 is spot on. You have a wide selection of wheels you can use. Just look for stockies with tyres.

Doh! R32 GT-R

I've seen this car on the road. Very clean. What offset are the wheels?

This. The advertisement is false really.

I'm a curry, so I'm screwed OT: The fancy restaurant in the Bulldogs Leagues club (Belmore) is pretty good, a tad pricey.

Philips 85122 D2S. Be very careful, there are some really good fakes on eBay but don't perform as well as the real deal.

This is what I've heard as well. Run at least 200 cell cat and two fat mufflers. You should be good.

That tyre size is too narrow for one. I had exact same problem when I put bigger tyres on the rear of my car. Try a different set of wheels if you can, one with same sizes all round. But, do a diag first (I'm sure there's a procedure around here). How am I wrong?

Suspension: HSD or BC BR, take your pick.

Looks like you'll have to rebarrel. Grab a set of cheapies for now.

Dying HID bulb. Grab a pair so they colours are the same. Think they're D2R, but pull them out and check. I recommend powerbulbs.com, quick delivery.

Replaced coilpacks/spark plugs?

Oops, stuffed that list up. It should be: - Performance - Reliability - Cheap

FX-R 3" is so easy to fit. I did my second pair in one afternoon.