niZmO_Man

Because red is the best colour.

NEO6 turbos go for $350-400 lol

Could be coil plug connection being loose, or the condition of the coils itself. Still have the old plugs? Measure the gap on them.

Which state?

Different people find different things fun. I'm modifying my car for more grip. Happy with the standard 20 years old power delivery, plenty for street driving.

Pretty sure it's model-specific man.

Blue smoke?

Sponge filter is pretty shit at filtering. I had a uni filter on my R32 when I bought it, was annoyingly loud. Standard airbox is the easiest option to meet both your wants.

I use a drink bottle and tape, usually sports drink, sometimes flavoured milk, whichever 'seals' the 'best' lol.

>$1,500 under my dad's name. $2k excess. Can't remember exactly how much. Will be switching next year.

AFM. Change it. I'm guessing backfire blew the wires out.

I wouldn't go wider than 255 on a 8.5" wide wheel.

Full comp agreed value $15k (dropped from $17k, thanks NRMA).

Gentlemen's agreement ruined all the fun.

I drank 3 of the 8 months of overseas work I did away while I was overseas . Was fun though haha. If you're having issues with the R35 not being as fun, I'm happy to swap my BNR32 for one. You can have lots of fun in one of them

I'm 25 and I'm struggling with an R32 GT-R lol.

Any excuse to jack the price for more profit.

Buy another stock turbo. Cheapest and quickest option.

Don't bother with those.

But you won't get the fully points a pod gives you. Unless you need to run a pod (e.g. space restrictions, big intake that won't bold up to standard box), you're better off with a stocker.

Best way I know is when I dump the oil (For a change) less comes out. E.g. on my R31 when I first got it, I used Magnatec (I was a noob back then), poured 5L in, when I dumped it just a bit under 4L came out. Way too thin on a 200,000+km 25 years old engine. Been using HPR15 ever since, 5L in, ~5L out (couple hundred mL stays into the oil filter). 5W is probably a bit too thin on an engine approaching 100,000km. I would say get a 10W-40 (e.g. HPR10) so you don't have to worry about it burning a little bit of oil when cold. No idea on how hard of a life your engine has had (wear), you could get away with 5W. I used SIN5 (5W-60) in my GT-R (150+k km) and it didn't burn oil. Harder to find these days, so I just switched to Racing 10W-40 (same price, $70). I've heard good things about Vavoline. That engine armour one stopped an SR20DE from smoking oil.

Replace with dry paper filter, e.g. Apexi

Which redline oil? I'm considering using lightweight shockproof in my R32 GT-R but not sure if it'll be fine for track days. Heard the smurf's blood cakes the gears/synchros when subjected to high heats (track use).

Daily driver I presume? No point spending on $80 oils. HPR5 will be fine. What sort of climate does your car live in? I would go with HPR10 (10W-50) Note: This is a generalised explanation. Lower the number the thinner it is (look up viscosity). The number before W is the 'cold' viscosity. E.g. 5W will be thinner than 15W. The number after the hyphen is the 'hot' viscosity. So a 5W-40 is thinner than 15W-50. For colder climates, you want a lower cold viscosity, e.g. 0W-40. For warmer climates, you want a slightly thicker oil (since there are higher atmospheic temperatures, the oil will heat up quicker and run hotter). So, for exampe, if you live in Cairns, you would use a 10W-50 oil, in Tasmania, same engine, use 5W-40. How new the engine is (tolerances between bearings, rings, etc.) is also a factor. If you put 0W-30 oil into a 100+k km/20 years old engine, it'll burn it because the oil is so thin it seeps past rings etc. But if your engine is a fresh rebuilt, or you have a new car, you can run thinner oil because of the tighter tolerances. Thinner oil = better flowing = less loss (due to lower flow resistance). Thicker oil = better protecting in higher temps or for older engines. The difference between the two numbers also is an indicator of its stability. E.g. 10W-30 is a lot more stable than 5W-60, but the operating temperature range is also a low narrower. If you lived in a cold country (e.g. Scandanavian), you would be using 0W-30 on a relatively new engine because it's fricken cold outside. So, factors include: operating temperature range, engine design, how worn the engine is. For a non-turbo NEO engine, I would use 5W-40 (HPR5). Note that you can use oil with a 5W to 15W cold and 30 to 50 hot viscosity. The RB engines are designed to use oil in that range. Remember that the Penrite range has "extra 10", so e.g. their HPR5 is actually 5W-30 oil with additives to increase the hot viscosity up to 40. I recommend Penrite because it's Australian. You are free to use any semi-syn or full-syn oil. If you notice that your car is using a bit of oil, change to a higher viscosity (e.g. from 5W-40 to 10W-50). Remember to use engine flush when changing oil brands/types/viscosity. For reference, Nissan 200SX oil is 7.5W-30 (what was used in you car when it was new).