niZmO_Man

Daily driver I presume? No point spending on $80 oils. HPR5 will be fine. What sort of climate does your car live in? I would go with HPR10 (10W-50) Note: This is a generalised explanation. Lower the number the thinner it is (look up viscosity). The number before W is the 'cold' viscosity. E.g. 5W will be thinner than 15W. The number after the hyphen is the 'hot' viscosity. So a 5W-40 is thinner than 15W-50. For colder climates, you want a lower cold viscosity, e.g. 0W-40. For warmer climates, you want a slightly thicker oil (since there are higher atmospheic temperatures, the oil will heat up quicker and run hotter). So, for exampe, if you live in Cairns, you would use a 10W-50 oil, in Tasmania, same engine, use 5W-40. How new the engine is (tolerances between bearings, rings, etc.) is also a factor. If you put 0W-30 oil into a 100+k km/20 years old engine, it'll burn it because the oil is so thin it seeps past rings etc. But if your engine is a fresh rebuilt, or you have a new car, you can run thinner oil because of the tighter tolerances. Thinner oil = better flowing = less loss (due to lower flow resistance). Thicker oil = better protecting in higher temps or for older engines. The difference between the two numbers also is an indicator of its stability. E.g. 10W-30 is a lot more stable than 5W-60, but the operating temperature range is also a low narrower. If you lived in a cold country (e.g. Scandanavian), you would be using 0W-30 on a relatively new engine because it's fricken cold outside. So, factors include: operating temperature range, engine design, how worn the engine is. For a non-turbo NEO engine, I would use 5W-40 (HPR5). Note that you can use oil with a 5W to 15W cold and 30 to 50 hot viscosity. The RB engines are designed to use oil in that range. Remember that the Penrite range has "extra 10", so e.g. their HPR5 is actually 5W-30 oil with additives to increase the hot viscosity up to 40. I recommend Penrite because it's Australian. You are free to use any semi-syn or full-syn oil. If you notice that your car is using a bit of oil, change to a higher viscosity (e.g. from 5W-40 to 10W-50). Remember to use engine flush when changing oil brands/types/viscosity. For reference, Nissan 200SX oil is 7.5W-30 (what was used in you car when it was new).

Why not KU31?

6. No posting on behalf of others! - If your mates want to advertise their parts here on SAU, tell them to register - If you dont own it, dont post it for sale.

Could probably get a fatter tyre on it for drag racing.

Offset buddy. But it should be okay, it'll be stretched.

Run a 9.5. 10.5 +15 will stick out of the guards. 255 will be heaps stretched. I have 10"+20 with 265/35/18 and it juuusst touches the unrolled guards on the front when the car leans heavily. Bit more camber and it'll be sweet, or I can roll the guards to fit 275 wide tyres.

205/55/16

Had a NEO6 turbo on mine, completely stock besides that (including exhaust). Was an awesome daily with good fuel economy. Used to easily get 10L/100km, less if I kept it off boost.

I got a ride in an R35 around Eastern Creek a couple of years ago. Power delivery is so smooth but still moves you, you can feel the torque. But it does all feel very civilised. It's like the car doesn't care about feel or whatever the driver wants to feel, it's just built to go quick.

Location

I like Penrite. SIN 5 if you can find it, otherwise Racing 10

LOL

Coles has 10c discount if you spend $50

5W-40 full syn

Since when were they ball bearing?

Out of those two, +27

My gauge sits pretty much at 0 almost all the time when I'm driving around normally. Only time it would go up is under hard acceleration or slippery conditions. As soon as it's disabled, rear wheels spin. So my system works, maybe not as lively as a new one (haven't flushed/bled it), but it still works after 20 years. I don't see any reason it should be sitting above 0 during as it's not meant to be transferring (as stated). If your gauge is above 0 all the time, you have problems, unless you're thrashing it literally all the time. Pretty simple and obvious. Note that your ATTESSA is being worn out a lot quicker, they're not designed to run all the time. Direct experience, my system randomly craps out now (warning lights, hissing from transmission, system disabled, have to power cycle the car, needs a bleed at the very least). Before I put mismatched tyres on, it worked fine with no issues.

Yeah you can stick the light in the oven for a few minutes @ ~100degC and the glue will melt. You should be able to pry off the lens and transfer it to your broken housing (assuming it's just the lens). Not sure if the lens are physically different (Xenon vs. Halogen headlights).

255 is pretty much vertical sidewall on a 9", so on an 8" it *should* be okay. I would go for it, you have enough sidewall height. It's a temporary measure to get you going anyway.

Factory specs I believe.

Yes that is true. But the small amount of front torque doesn't register on the gauge. Unless my ATTESSA is not working as well as it should, hence my question of how am I wrong to say that the needle should be at 0 until the car decides to send torque to the front wheels. I may sound like a dick online, but it's a genuine question lol. When I had 245/40 front and 245/45 rear tyres, every bump sent the gauge to ~10. I had to lift off so it would relax down to 0 again. Bit off topic, with the R33/R34 GT-R's, does the torque gauge read 0 during cruise, even though there is preload on the front wheels?

Have you had a look at the back of the headlight? Bulbs are a consumable, so they have to be relatively easy to reach/replace. Stick your hand down there and find out!

I should renew my membership. And, pay attention to the NRL games lol.

That was my point. If you want the auto-levelling function, good luck. Only way is to maybe find a wreck and hope everything works. FX-R is a big unit, but it goes into R32 housing with minimal fuss. I bought three! lol I also have H1 Mini and D2S Mini. I think the FX-R will struggle to fit into R31 projector.

AFM solder fix, or another working AFM.