niZmO_Man

I've had 245/40 and 245/45 on my 17x9 wheels and were stretched. 265/35 on my 18x10 are stretched, but my definition of stretch would be different to say, yours, I'm guessing. I didn't say anything about 235/40 . The person asking didn't say anything about prices, plus 245/40/17 aren't as expensive these days. Yes 235/45/17 is cheaper as it's way more popular. That being said, would you want to run wider tyres that fit into the guards? I'm going to run 255/40/17 on the back of my R31 (17x9 wheels). Picture was relevant to my "stretch" point (sidewall angle). 245 is slight stretch, 235 would be even more (that was my point). Plus, 245/40 on a 17x9 +22 was made to fit on my mate's S14 with rolled guards, so that is a real world example (unless S14 guards have more clearance than R32).

I had 245/40 on my old 17x9, my definition of stretch is different to yours of course. 265/35/18 on 18x10 Same size on 18x9 Each to their own

It's from Autech, not Nismo.

In the boot, just to the left of the boot latch, there is a bracket with two relays. I'm after the one on the right (smaller one).

That looks like it's stuffed. Since you have another set coming, take this one apart for fun Stick it in the oven @ 100degC for 5 minutes and pull it apart.

Plus you get that fully sick stretch look.

Sounds like it's running off the standard wastegate, so yeah, could be a dud bleed valve. Able to try another one?

245/40/17 all round, roll the guards, around -2deg negative camber, it should be fine. My mate with an S14 has same widths/offset and his is fine.

Ballasts are usually mounted on the bottom of the headlight housing.

265/35/18 tyre will fit fine. Rear you probably have around -2deg camber (which is lots). Front, you'll have to get upper adjustable arms, run around -2deg, +5deg castor and it won't scrub.

Is the standard boost solenoid still in place? If so, is it grounded?

Looks like a 32. Just pull the hose off the surround.

Wrong section bud, try http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/28-queensland/

Damn that sucks man. I thought Ultimo would be a safe place, but this shows no where is safe.

Get 245/40/18 tyres, keep them the same. Also, why not get KU31? E.g.: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/245-40-18-2454018-97Y-KUMHO-ECSTA-SPT-KU31-BRAND-NEW-TYRE-/181139094785

I've seen approximately 0 police pull over a car for having badly aligned/glare-y headlights. I see around 3 cars a month flash someone, so 95% of drivers just cop it in the face (much like drivers behind slow cars not doing anything about it). Your car is low on the front + alignment is pointing down a lot. Of course it will be brighter than standard halogen, but the distribution of the light is more important, especially when it rains. The amount of glare I see on Sydney roads is too damn high! More cars = more people running HID kits in their halogen housings = more glare. Also, lots of (~30% of cars I see) have lights that point up, which then cop some bi-xenon goodness from me. If you ever get a chance, go for a drive in an OEM HID equipped car (like series 3 R33) or a car that someone did a retrofit to. If you do ever change to HIDs, you won't go back! Lol

Those damned fusible links!

Do you have ducting for the front brakes? If not, throw some on there, will help.

You put in the search field: site:skylinesaustralia.com <whatever you're searching for>

Don't forget Z31 (with a top mount intercooler)

If the road you're driving on is bumpy then the car will send more torque to the front wheels. On my car, if I'm driving down a shit road under power, the front wheels get's to about 10 and hangs around there for 5 seconds or so once the road gets smooth.

Compressor is most likely shorting, like mine. Replace compressor with a known working one and it should be good.

Offset of wheels? The tyres will fit easily. I run 265/35/18 on 10"+20 wheels

If you don't plan on starting the engine

Using quality parts is a must. E.g.: Some random EBS brand I think, maybe it was something else. The only pad that I could get ASAP at that time.