niZmO_Man

In the boot. Just left of the boot lid catch, there are two relays. The bigger one on the left is the 4WD relay.

I would say busted gasket that sits between turbo and manifold. You should be able to pinpoint the source of the noise pretty easily.

"Dose" is air bouncing off the compressor blades when you close the throttle valve. As long as the turbo is spinning air > shut throttle > air goes back onto the compressor > pigeon noises WOT should read 0 vacuum. So yeah, you have some problems somewhere. On my car, standard gauge sits just above 0 while the engine is trying to spin past 2,000rpm (don't need WOT for it to that).

Yeah put it back before the turbo (standard position).

^ As above Could have invested in a multimeter instead of that tester you got (assuming it cost >$20). I think the orange one might be a 12V source lol. It's been years since I done the install in my R31.

Do you need to change them? Are they faulty? If not, you're wasting your time/money. Sorry, can't answer your questions. Although, I can't imagine them being any different in design.

You can get gearsets from PPG, PAR, Hollinger, OS Giken, etc. You can get Quaife and Nismo front LSD. No idea on centre diff, but I'm guessing you'll be running oil coolers for diffs and gearbox? Grab a Hollinger 6 speed sequential

Ah okay, well that is unfortunate. I thought they in non-GT-R models as well. Lowball or retrofit.

If I won lotto, this is pretty much how my R34 GT-R would be hahaha. Awesome job!

If you can buy R34 factory xenon headlights for <$1,000 you should be able to buy R33 ones for less than a grand as well.

You use miles per gallon?

Second hand bumper

Pretty sure you can't. Just throw them up for sale, it'll sell eventually.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/427413-r32-gtr-n1-front-bar-vents-clutch-fuel-tank/

I have 2 pairs and an extra passenger one lol. But I'm located in Sydney. One pair has been HID retrofitted.

How much movement do you have when you push the tail shaft by hand?

I've been dailying my GT-R for almost two years. Used to drive 1,000km/wk at times. Expensive to run, but ballin' ain't cheap lol (my "daily" R31 was broken). It's not that hard to live with, my car has a heavy clutch, but it's pretty easy to drive in traffic. Just have to keep your boosting urges under control and you should see 12L/100km (assuming it's a good condition stocker). Highly modified ones are a different story I would imagine. Sydney roads are super shithouse so a car with low profile tyres and/or stiffer suspension will rattle you/itself to pieces. But yeah, GTS-t is a far better option, especially if it came with factory sunroof!

Q: Best cam to put in stock GT-R. A: Stock.

Hard starting isn't really related to oil man. But use a 10W-50/15W-50

Don't know why people keep bagging KU31s out, they are an awesome tyre for the price. I will happily run them on my GT-R, have before. They shame more expensive tyres. You can still get them cheap (e.g. tempe, ozzy).

Yeah just keep it serviced regularly, etc. Take it to track days, skid pans etc to learn how your car handles in different situations. Build your driving skills up. Once you get a turbo (after a few years of experience), you will appreciate it more and more importantly, know how to control it a lot better.

What turbo are you running?

I think Terry has lost the plot

Takes about half an hour for me (GT-R). Pretty much like changing spark plugs, but instead of the plug, you change the coil pack. Replacing the harness would be even quicker. Retune not required.

Excellent job