niZmO_Man

I have 2 pairs and an extra passenger one lol. But I'm located in Sydney. One pair has been HID retrofitted.

How much movement do you have when you push the tail shaft by hand?

I've been dailying my GT-R for almost two years. Used to drive 1,000km/wk at times. Expensive to run, but ballin' ain't cheap lol (my "daily" R31 was broken). It's not that hard to live with, my car has a heavy clutch, but it's pretty easy to drive in traffic. Just have to keep your boosting urges under control and you should see 12L/100km (assuming it's a good condition stocker). Highly modified ones are a different story I would imagine. Sydney roads are super shithouse so a car with low profile tyres and/or stiffer suspension will rattle you/itself to pieces. But yeah, GTS-t is a far better option, especially if it came with factory sunroof!

Q: Best cam to put in stock GT-R. A: Stock.

Hard starting isn't really related to oil man. But use a 10W-50/15W-50

Don't know why people keep bagging KU31s out, they are an awesome tyre for the price. I will happily run them on my GT-R, have before. They shame more expensive tyres. You can still get them cheap (e.g. tempe, ozzy).

Yeah just keep it serviced regularly, etc. Take it to track days, skid pans etc to learn how your car handles in different situations. Build your driving skills up. Once you get a turbo (after a few years of experience), you will appreciate it more and more importantly, know how to control it a lot better.

What turbo are you running?

I think Terry has lost the plot

Takes about half an hour for me (GT-R). Pretty much like changing spark plugs, but instead of the plug, you change the coil pack. Replacing the harness would be even quicker. Retune not required.

Excellent job

That engine bay alone will tell you it isn't 55,000km old. Look at the intake plenum paint for once. Has it been tracked its whole life? Have a look underneath at the chassis/suspension/diffs.

Heaps of tyres are available in that size. I've got RE001 in that size (came with wheels). http://www.tempetyres.com.au/tyre_section.php?BrandName=&TyreWidth=255&TyreProfile=40&TyreDiameter=17&TyrePattern=&TyreLoad=&TyreSpeed=&RunFlat=

These things are insanely fun. You should buy it.

55k windback km? That engine bay doesn't look too flash. The whirring noise sounds like timing belt. Either the cover is bent and rubbing on the pulley, the belt is rubbing somewhere or the belt is tensioned too tightly. But at that price for a R33 (assuming everything else is good), I wouldn't worry too much. Just budget a replacement engine or a rebuild.

Penrite

You're on your P's, so forget about turbos. Where is it leaking oil from? Ticking sounds like oil is too thin. Not sure if it got worse or you bought it like that. Try thicker oil. Wait until you're off your P's then buy a turbo one (or sell your car and get an R34).

Yeah it'll bolt up. I think, since the shaft isn't sitting snugly it may wobble a bit. I didn't take the bush out on my R31, no issues, but the RB30E doesn't rev as high as RB20. I doubt there would be much damage, if any. As for slave, it may be the wrong one.

Some policies may be voided if you don't list mods. Something to do with the mods not being road worthy or something blah blah easy way out for the insurance company.

This listing (281131105103) has been removed, or this item is not available. Also, if you read the rules, you would have seen this: 7. No external links! - Do not post links to items being sold on e-bay, or other forums. If you wish to start a thread advertising the same items on SAU, you must include all details and price in your thread. Asking people to refer to e-bay for more info is not acceptable. If you're too lazy to copy and paste the details on here, your thread will be deleted.

^ True, I replace the ones in my R31 every two years lol. As for those cheap coilpacks, they are fake (there's a post in here somewhere that shows the difference). Hopefully they a few years so it's not a complete waste.

After owning both and daily driving them, I would say the GTS-t is a better daily. Don't discount the RB20DET so much, they are a great engine. I slapped a NEO6 turbo on mine and easily returned 10L/100km or less if I stopped boosting it so much. Car was completely stock (engine, exhaust, suspension/wheels). Very easy to live with, and even had a factory sunroof! (Type M). GT-R, a lot more expensive to run (12+L/100km with very easy driving), parts are more expensive, it's heavier and there's more things that will go wrong (ATTESA, HICAS) mainly because all of them will be thrashed. BUT, and this is a big one, the way the GT-R drives is on a completely different level. The GTS-t feels tail happy, but is easier to drive (lighter, smaller turning circle). You can have a quick squirt through some hills/corners without much effort and it will be fun. GT-R feels like a restrained animal. The turbos comes on hard, feels heavier, as if more effort is required to drive it. But once you're on boost and ready to move, GT-R will decimate a lot of cars and quite easily yourself. You really have to take it to track days to fully open it up, it's just far too dangerous on the streets. If you aren't driving much everyday and have the cash to spend when required, get the GT-R. If you do a fair bit of driving, get a GTS-t with as few mods as possible. Don't get me wrong, a near stock GT-R is very reliable, same with a GTS-t. Vehicle's history obviously plays a big part.

From what I've read, the Walbro likes good current supply. I would do the wiring mod anyway, better to be safe than rely on standard wiring (which was designed for original pump).

How about a 3" cat back for $250?

Read the rules before posting. How about some pictures, location, price.