niZmO_Man

Something like this? http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/osram-cool-blue-intense-xenarc-d2s-single You can get cheap ones from ebay, but I found that genuine Philips/Osram (I got Philips 85122, not the 85122+, so it would colour shift as it got older) will produce a better beam. Beware that there are many fakes on ebay.

Bump

Will easily fit R32 GT-R

That is why I went to the trouble of wiring up relays for my cars. Don't want to burn switches or worse.

On my GT-R I went from HPR10 to SIN5 to Racing 10 (couldn't find Premium 5). The 10 tenths made the most noticeable difference, the engine runs smoother and quieter compared to the other two oils. Hopefully they last 10,000km lol. TJZ - 10W-40 is not too thick, Nissan 200SX oil (from Nissan) is 7.5W-30, so 10W-40 or thereabouts is fine for daily driving. If you're thrashing your car a lot then look at getting thicker oil (5W-50 or 10W-60 etc.).

Nismo suspension should be fine as they're not adjustable. PM fatz to see if he has a set of standard GT-R ones.

Auto ECU works fine in a manual car.

I'm going to take a guess and say BCPR7ES

That sucks Bit thin, try 5w-50

Yes please

Try to get BCPR6ES-8, or gap the regular ones down to 0.8mm. Assuming you have old coilpacks.

Thanks for the tip. I haven't tested the motor yet.There are two pumps on the washer bottle in the engine bay so I thought the rear washer ran off that, but it could be possible that there's a second pump in the wiper assembly. Anyone have a known working one they want to sell to me cheap cheap?

Tried Taarks?

265/35/18 Falken Azenis on R34 GT-R wheels (18x9) I want the same on my 18x10, hopefully 275/35 would achieve this lol.

Yes you can bolt it on and have it running/drivable. But it'll go into R&R mode if the airflow gets too high for the AFMs/ECU to handle.

Lol that is a dodgy way of getting more boost. 12psi is what you want on standard turbos.

What ECU are you running? What turbo pressure? What else has been done to the engine? Most importantly, how are you driving it?

Try a different dizzy. If you know how, change the CAS (check R31 Skyline Club). Also check/clean CAS and AFM plugs.

Bump

Us NSW peopl get shafted pretty badly, but we need it "just in case". And hence we line the pockets of those companies with cash. They could drop the prices by $200, but all that profit...

Tempe or St George tyres or tirerack (depends on what tyres you want).

No one wants a decent set of R34 GT-R wheels? Comes with decent tyres as well!

^ About time he got a warning. His posted started to annoy me, and I don't moderate here lol. OP, track days is the best place to learn how to drive as mentioned already. On your first day you will quickly figure out how bad your driving is and adjust to suit. Something as simple as hand placement on your steering wheel. Best to do skidpans/texi as well, as you'll more likely use those skills (for example, controlling a slide if you hit oil) on the road. My first track day on a wet Oran Park in my crapbox R31 was the most fun I had and learnt so much. You don't need power for track days. Flush your brake fluid with something decent (Super DOT4 at a minimum), put some decent pads on there (contact GSL Rallysport for some Resma or A1RMs), replace all fluids and filters, etc. Keep your standard blow-off valve, apart from the lame noise, you have no other reason to get rid of it. It helps with response between gear changes. For boost, stick with standard for now. Once you get used to the car (how it handles, power delivery, fix all the other shit first like brakes, suspension, etc.), you can buy a boost controller (e.g. $30 turbotech) or stick an RB20 turbo actuator (10psi) on there. No point running more than that, reasons mentioned already.

NRMA agreed value drops every year grr.

Isn't that where the reverse gear sensor goes?