Dil-Dog

Hello Everyone, After fully forging and building my r34 2 door rb25de neo to a turbo conversion... i would like to do a brake disc and caliper upgrade. I know for sure for sure for sure there IS a thread somewhere that i read a couple weeks ago but i just spent a hour looking for it and no luck. My question is, can i buy brake discs and calipers upgrades for a r34 GTT coupe? (cant find aftermarket shit for the NA r34) i think i heard something like the N/A brakes on the r34 is actually r33 gtst brakes and discs. If anyone can give me some advice or even direct me to a thread it will be greatly appreciated!!

I figured it out.. the answer is yes to both #1 and #2

Yes! been there done that ......BUT you will need the corresponding bolts. they fit perfectly but you need the series 2 bolts for your neo engine. the neo's bolts much shorter and the series 2 takes some real long ass bolts. Also worth mentioning is that you should really make sure and be careful when putting your CAS sensor back on and even taking it off.. be gentle... and It must be in the same exact position so you dont throw off your ignition timing. Nice purchase by the way! it Will look amazing and good luck and maybe post a pic here when your finished

Okay okay thank you guys for the advice... i thought so too but i just wanted to make sure. It makes sense though that you will have to tune it with the ECU.

Or... if there is any other options to help get around this, please let me know

I am running a stock Pink labeled NEO Maf with a STOCK Untuned NEO ECU... With the new larger turbo and intake system, i am now getting hard cuts when i am approaching 13 psi as the airflow is too much for the AFM. I am planning on doing the norm and trying the already well documented Z32 MAF swap by ordering a ISR performance OE replacement from Enjuku Racing. HOWEVER here is my question.... I have heard and asked some people if it can be done using the stock ecu (obviously i know that i have to repin the plug to the Neo harness) but some people are saying that you HAVE to have a tuneable Ecu/ Piggy back to make it work. even the product description on enjuku racing says you will ecu compatibility tuning to make it work. HOWEVER i heard some others say you can do it with no problem on the stock ecu but i never actually spoke to someone who claims they have with the stock ecu. I am hoping i can get away with my stock ecu. Does anyone have experience with the STOCK ECU?

If its rubber in the injector seal, if its plastic its what hardsteppa said

You can use the coolant drain plug as water feed and the nipple off the thermostat housing as water return. For oil... you can use a brass "T" between the oil pressure sensor and block as feed and for the return, it is very simple. its the plug where the DET drain would be. but on the NEO rb's , that plug wont be there and you will have the head drain plug (same size) approx. 6 inches infront. Check out the topic on this forum called "doing a plus t on a unopened rb25neo". you will learn 75% of everything you have to do from there. the rest you can figured out or you can easily get your questions answered from searching the forums here or by private messaging guys like @DatsunBanana @NEO25T @Rusty Nuts and myself included

75T Is defiantly a series 2... I have successfully done a fully forged and built rb25de + T NEO conversion on my r34 as well all of the necessary supporting mods. Message me if you need any help or advice. I can also link you to forum threads with lots of useful information that i learned from.

UPDATE: For those who care and for anyone who may be able to learn and get help from this post for their projects... the problem the god awful mishimoto electric fan. Its sucks booty butt cheeks and is better off being a fan for a computer or somthing... the stock clutch fan is honestly 10 times better in terms of air flow.

Well i was obviously looking for better cooling capabilities out of this upgraded set up.... I have a feeling it may be the Thermostat possibly not opening? i am not to sure, how could you find out if a thermostat is doing its job?

Hello Everyone, I have: New Mishimoto Radiator New Mishimoto Electric and Shroud (came with ONE fan)... wired professionally from a ignition source from the Fuse Box and wired with its own fuse and relay. New Mishimoto Colder range Thermostat and YET! it still overheats in 10 mins on the street with regular driving either and day 29 degrees C or Night 27 degrees C The Dash Board's Temperature gauge will slowly climb to about 75% to the top and then at a certain point will start slowing jumping up and down and up and down from 75% to 95% (overheating). I was told that: -The single electric fan is ass and cant cool the radiator so go back to the clutch fan and shroud. -The Thermostat is faulty/not working. replace it and one guy even said dont even use one. I live in the Caribbean by the way... -When switching over to a GReddy Forward Facing Plenum, the coolant temp sensor could have been damaged/stop working. But the engine bay is HOT!

I have a stock r34 GTT NEO ecu and the senor is installed about 35 inches away from the exhaust turbine. My exhaust is almost straight piped i only have a single resonator... no muffler and no cat.

Hey guys, This is my first turbo car and my first time using a wideband... as you can see from the video attached these are readings i am getting at idle and when lightly applying throttle in neutral. Can anyone tell me if these numbers are good or bad or if anything is wrong? At one point closer to end it kinda turns off for a second and goes to zero... is that normal? It is a turbo rb25 neo with a Greddy FFP, Gt3071r, stock 370cc injectors, and a walbro 255 fuel pump with a stock fuel pressure regualtor. thanks, IMG_2203.MOV

Oh shit yes i stand corrected the veterans definatly have a point the the return must go infront the turbo and not on the charge pipe... my bad. Never ran one with a return so I dont have any expirence with it. Ignore my previous comments. Yall dont gotta be fags all the time by the way... next time try help and educate a noob out

Basically @Jason062100 you can look at it in 2 very simple ways.... #1 The picture you shown where the 2 PCV ports on the top go into a non-return catch can that vents to atmosphere, and the side PCV port is blocked/Capped. - This method is the absolute best and cleanest for your engine, no ifs ands or buts... its is the best. #2 If you are a good boy and care about the law and environment, ? ... run a catch can that has a return port but AT LEAST run the return port somewhere after the turbo like on the charge piping so you at least dont foul up ur turbo with carbon build up and oily greasy gunk. Choose Wisely and join the dark side ?

I agree with you 100% but they come Pull type from factory so he would have to convert it if he wants a push type

UPDATE: for anyone who may be interested and can learn from this in the future.... It was MY Idle Air controller unit and it also being not having the vacuum lines plumbed correctly. After this a few test drives, adjusting the idle air screw and letting the ECU learn, i am almost completely sorted

That in the picture is the best way that I KNOW and have experience with ..... to my knowledge there is no disadvantages to this set up and thus will provide only clean air to the engine from through the filter and there is no other source like polluted blow by gas going back through, fouling and dirtying up your turbo, throttle body, intake ports, and valves. PS: who cares if its illegal and realistically how much more harm is it causing to the environment venting to atmosphere while your 20 year old fire breathing RB is running ? @GTSBoy can you explain why this set up is "stupid" ?

Just make sure that you get a PULL type clutch

@GTSBoy oh f**k haha! Still new to forums. I thought it was one of those banners people put when they are selling shit ?

Hey bro thanks for the reply. Can you please link that guide in here? I tried searchinh but i honestly cant find anything

I Have an R34 GT N/A and I rebuilt it and converted the working engine With: -CP Neo forged pistons -Manley Rods -Garret Gt3071r DDB Turbo -Series 2 stock fuel rail and injectors -Series 2 exhaust manifold -SplitFire Neo coils - New iridium NGK Plugs -255 Walbro Fuel Pump -Freddy Forward Facing intake -Stock GTT R34 NEO Turbo ECU -Many Many more.... After my conversion build with all new parts, i primed it and started on the first Crank. CURRENT STATUS: -Crank and starts instantly every single time and runs only when applying throttle THE PROBLEMS - Sounds great however it if you do not apply throttle and leave her idle, she is struggle to breathe and stutters and will die - Jumps up and down the rev range by her self - Cannot find a decent idle and when she does its not for long - After reeving and she goes back down she dies - Sometimes when reeving she break up on her own SOLUTIONS/TROUBLE SHOOTING - TPS sensor needed to be adjusted to get the right Ohms. After we fixed it it seemed to be more consistent when reeving and staying and holding at an RPM's and slightly better idling. - Idle air Controller, adjusted the screw and tried over 10 positions, although it actually really helped idling it still did not cure the dying at idle problem and finding a good idle problem. NEXT STEP (tomorrow) Take a look at the base/ignition timing with a timing light to the notches on the crank pulley and adjust it with the CAS sensor? DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH IGNITION TIMING? HOW DO I DO IT PROPERLY? WHAT DO THE NOTCHES INDICATE? WHAT NOTCH DO I WANT TO BE AT? ANY ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED

What did you do in the end? rebuild? order new one? do you have a part number?

did you ever find out? do you have a part number for the neo motor?