Dil-Dog

Sounds crazy but anyone who does 3d printing where you live locally can easily make this

Hello everyone, My car is an r34 and It came with a rb25 de neo, i have Since made it a Forged De+T The engine is a built bottom end neo de with Manley Rods, Garret gt3071r , and Cp 9:1 pistons, etc etc etc... The car has been running perfectly on a stock GTT ECU with peak 9psi of boost and i plan to stay around this relatively stock power level. The head is completely stock but the intake ports have been machined to near det size I would like sleep better at night and build my head For reliability Concerns and my few questions are: 1- Can i use series 3 rb25Det turbo Cams on my de neo head? ( i have a complete series 3 rb25Det Engine doing nothing) 2- I built my motor in November 2019 roughly 8 months ago, should i buy new arp head studs again? I know i will Have to replace the head gasket 3- What would be some advice or Recommendations for my build, any brands that are shit and not to buy, what are some good brands? Feel free to tell me any ideas or comments, i wanna learn and open to anything, Its my first time building a head

Yeah man, good luck and take pics and get back to us

This actually is a really interesting post... to start, a small amount of Piston slap Is actual a normal occurrence in forged builds under certain conditions believe it or not. 1# Forged pistons are honed/bored at slightly higher than stock piston to wall clearance over factory cast pistons 2# Forged pistons and cast pistons dont have the same expansion under heat, forged pistons expand more hence and take more time too and thats why they need a greater tolerance. Sometimes depending on the application... forged pistons when in the bores can even rock back and forth to the point where they go “click clack” when moving them by hand. Crazy to think about but look it up on youtube from HPacademy. #3 Forged pistons usually have a central gudgeon pin location, where as cast/stock are made with an offset pin location on all OEM pistons, which helps reduce noise. Now, from my experience with my forged rb25neo, i do have some very slight slap on cold start but within 5-10 mins it is 100% Gone. This is considered normal with forged motors In your case with ur engine warmed up still slapping loud like hell and with ur compression readings, it may be that ur clearances are completely off and this is 100% the machinist/engine builders fault for not doing it or checking it correctly. Sorry to hear about it but keep us updated, very curious to know what happened or if its something else entirely.

Yes thats what i used, its been working no problems now for 9ish months now. You can get new from amazon for about 90-100usd. Its legit pull out the old one and plug in the new walbro one, no headache or wiring. All you would have to do is cut A small piece off the bracket so it can fit in

The wiring harness for the injectors are the same between de neo and det neo, fuel Rail is the same i believe, when i turbo swapped my r34 all i did was simply change the fuel pump. The walbro fits and plugs in directly

Ur small box from the gt is push type the big box from the Gtt is pull type, i used spec 6puck stage 3 and still very happy

Dont forget fuel pump

I absolutely LOVE my garret GTX3071r Duall ball bearing. great response and sick sound. i got it for something around 1600 USD from https://www.atpturbo.com/ .

I seen apparently new ones on NENGUN.com which is based in japan. If not Rawbrokerage.com also has used ones for time to time. if not why dont check with your local nissan dealership.

u are better off cleaning and zinc coating the ones ur engine came with

I used this and was pleased... All genuine https://frsport.com/nissan-10101-aa525-genuine-oem-complete-engine-gasket-kit-rb25det-neo

lol i know its sounds funny but could not burnt and my skyline came with that cheese just like yours on that same exact connector, i believe its dielectric grease and it came from factory with it or something. I tried to clean mine with Electronic spray cleaner but it didnt come out too good. i ended up wiping it down and putting my own dielectric grease afterwords. I could be wrong thou bro,... it may be burnt in your case but mine looked similar and wasnt burnt

Mount the catch can in your asshole for all i care fam

I understand but its not a big deal at all... its just a street/weekend drifter . I hate the look when the tubes/hose goes to the front or over the cam covers.

This is my personal set up... its a non return vented to atmosphere set up, which is the cleanest possible way for your engine. All of the returns and holes have been blocked. U can get -10an press fittings from Raw Brokerage and the elbows and such anywhere like amazon.

Front suspension on GT and GTT are the same fittings but the rears are different. GTT has a lower fork fitting and GT has a lower eye fitting where it goes to the hubs. R34 GT fitment is same as an R33 GTST so I fitted a set of secondhand Apexi from an R33. Not sure about spring rates etc. but if you go for some adjustable coilovers then it doesn't matter and R33 should be cheaper anyway. For brakes the mounting hole spacing on all of them is the same (including Z32, S14, S15 etc.). Some (e.g. R33 and R32) have 12mm threads on the front but R34s have 14mm holes. So to fit my R32 GTR calipers I used about 1cm of stainless steel sleeve (outer diameter 14mm, inner diameter 12mm, 1mm thick wall) in each bolt hole on the mounting bracket. The original 12mm bolt from the R32 goes through the sleeve in the R34 mounting bracket and into the caliper. If you have R34 GTT calipers the threads will be 14mm already so no need for the sleeve. I'm pretty sure you need the matching disks as they are a bit bigger. I think the caliper mounting points are a bit longer to allow for this - but you'd better check on that. All of my stuff, calipers and disks were off a 32 GTR. Rear calipers are all fitted straight up with the same bolts - no problems. Some helpful info here about compatibility between models ... https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120446/http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm This info was part of a private message from @DatsunBanana ... very good guy to talk to about NA r34’s and helped me alot

https://youtu.be/EjdbmLYIhjo https://youtu.be/ir3h_yMqf04 also check out “garage13” rb rebuild. i would suggest upon buying your r33.... u sit down and make a build plan cause if you want somthing reliability, well sorry bro , YOU are gunna have to make it reliable. its 25 years old and abused. You can rebuild everything your self and you might be surprised at how cheap it is to do, but be prepared as it will be a very long and hard journey. Patience, research, and a workshop manual is key.

Take off ur filter ... legit 2 hose clamps, then go to ur local auto part store and get a similar nissan family one. Should take you 15 mins tops with a screwdriver and pliers

I live in the caribbean with 24-7 boiling hot weather, my mishimoto rad with stock clutch fan works great.

Oh wow... thanks. never knew and thats good to know though. I guess nissan only hates us neo’s boyz ?

Damn bro..... i only have experience with neo’s. That must be a series 1/2 specific thing then. My 25de neo and my friends 25de neo is a blank in that location. good looking out though. @Rusty Nuts

Where did u post the turbo review? No lie i am very skepitcal about max speeding rods as a whole. The company seems very Chinese. It legit doesnt make sense with their pricing, i would never trust em

This is your best bet i can think of...That red circle is your turbo oil drain. if in that area on your block is a blank/does not exists then it is 100% a de block. If this spot on your block has any kind plug of bolt or block off that goes into a hole, then its a turbo block that plugged up.

Okay i know exactly how u can tell... but is the engine in or out of the car?