MrStabby

If by "bigger" you mean "higher flow" then you will increase the risk of oil starvation, as the higher flow pump will push more oil to the top of the motor than the standard pump. This will empty the sump more quickly, unless you add other oil control mods. Read SK's oil control thread Here +1 for N1GTRs tips, re 25% throttle, I think he just means take it easy until its warmed up, ie just drive at normal traffic speed. Also; - dont hit the rev limiter - dont use oil that's too thick. IMO ?W-40 is as high as you need to go with a quality oil. - providing the injectors and pump are in good condition they'll be fine for 250

The only time you'd need to run 100 is if the car had a hardcore jap tune setup to get the most out of the jap fuel. If you have a standard ECU our 98 is fine. Of course you would have noticed the pinging by now if it was a problem.

I've got one in front of me now - no numbers on the pump body. "2Y29" is the only marking - its on a section near the outlet and electrical connections. HTH

When i rebuilt my calipers i just cleaned up the old pistons. I used 1200 grit wet n dry on the mating surface anywhere i could see any sort of inconsistency. I'd say replacing them is a bit over the top. I didnt split the caliper either, again because i couldnt see any point.

My brake lines dont have any crush washers, just the usual flared pipe end that mates onto a cone shape. NFI what the right terminology is. For tools you probably just need a flare nut spanner. Its like a ring spanner with a slot cut out so you can get it over the tubing. Its also chunkier to make up for the loss of strength that the slot brings. Much better than trying to use an open ender, which is likely to damage the fitting. 10mm is all i needed for my car.

Might not necessarily be the brakes. Perhaps a dud bush is allowing a suspension arm to move around as the braking forces act on it? Loose kingpin?

I got one for my R32 GTR, but swapped it and another $200 for a sard. The 040 didnt fit into the nicely engineered cradle, so i would have lost fuel pickup depth and sound/vibration isolation if i had used it. The car already surges on 1/4 tank at the track... For GTS-T YMMV.

If you're going to track it the ability to tune front/rear roll stiffness (which will help you balance understeer/oversteer) will be pretty useful. I'd go for the whileline adjustables.

Might be worth just removing the snorkel - mine had a plastic sleeve that sits inside the internal and external pieces, that was closed in on itself and would have been restricting flow. You get at tiny bit more BOV noise but that's it.

Yeah i think so. The FPCM would switch the earth via a resistor at idle, to lower the voltage at the pump. Since you've made a direct earth it will bypass the resistor. I'm guessing the reduced voltage is to stop too much fuel circulating and therefore heating up - can anyone confirm? Yeah but the relay is easy to check. Run 12 volts through the solenoid pins (the pinout is usually stamped on the cover, from memory its the pair of contacts that are the furthest apart). You should hear it click. Check that the other two pins go from infinite to 0 ohms resistance when the relay is activated

Its the ECU behind the back seat, drivers side trim. PM if you have one for sale.

Looks like the FPCM also switches at least a soft earth, so maybe the extra earthing is stopping for module from working as well as it should; From this link "the factory ECU's on R32's trigger a soft earth for the f.pump; lower flow at idle,". Check the rest of the thread for more info. I certainly got mindf**ked trying to understand how it was all working, but i wasnt expecting earth switching.

If the CAS was stuffed, then it wouldnt have started with the direct power feed would it? BTW if you want to check to see if you're got the same problem as me, the fuel pump control modulator is behind the trim on the drivers side back seat. You need to take the drivers seat belt top mount off to get at it. I also have the back seat out ATM because i was tracing wires....

Ok update: I ran a temporary wire from the the battery to the fuel pump and could start the car, so i know its definitely the fuel pump power circuit. The sound i thought was the fuel pump must have been something else....(HICAS? ATTESSA?) After tracing the wires it appears i have a problem with the "fuel pump control modulator". I never even knew i had one...still dont know what it does. Anyway, i found one of the plugs was burnt so I opened the unit and found a dry solder joint. Re-soldered it but is still doesnt operate the pump. I guess i'll get another one from a wrecker and swap it out. The other thing i like to check is the fuel pump relay - does anyone know which one it is?

Electrodes are dry.... Yep i have spark. Didnt look that strong but it was in direct sunlight. I've pulled the fuel filter, and blew it out the inlet to see what came out. The petrol looks cloudy. Maybe it is/was blocked so i'll put it back together to see if I can start it. I had no luck getting new filter tonight. Repco/Auto-one havent heard of late night shopping.

Ok, i pulled the CAS, spun the shaft and the injectors clicked. So i guess that means its fuel pressure or spark.... I'll check the coil transistor is putting out 9V to the coils next i guess...

How do i check it? Is that something CONSULT will miss?