TurboTapin

I agree 100% with you. OEM R32 projectors were not originally designed for LED bulbs, nor should you expect it to be anywhere close to perfect or comparable to 2022 LED projectors. But with that being said, I still saw a very drastic improvement. I can actually see further then 5 feet in front of me. I would recommend it to anyone and everyone who owns an R32 and one of the cheapest/greatest things I did to my car. It's an improvement that may not be perfect, but it's an improvement nonetheless.

Haha we're on the same page!

Was this verified and signed off by an independent lab? If not, you're a mad man. As already mentioned, you might think you see better but in reality you don't. Your eyes are probably lying to you. The Tom Cruise movie "Eyes wide shut" was actually based on this exact situation.

Setup my IC-7 dash today. I saw a company that does roughly the same setup and I liked it enough to copy it. IC7 in a recessed cluster mount. I put 5x 12mm LED's. Battery light (With resistor in parallel), seat belt light, open door light, fuel low light and HICAS light. Yes I still rock HICAS, replaced most of it with new parts years ago and always worked well. Also bought another fancy tool Friday. Decided to upgrade my older chinese AC/DC Tig welder with an ESAB 205IC AC/DC Multi-Process welder. I've Tigged aluminum and mild steel with it so far and it's been great. My other machine was by no means bad but I'll never look back.

The little Mitsubishi sign in the middle of the CAS should not spin at all. It probably got loose somehow(!?) and spins here and there due to vibration. Even stranger is touching your CAS should not cause your engine to sound different, that's why Duncan is probably asking if it's loose. It's normal timing fluctuates a few degree's at idle. That's what controls your idle speed. You need to lock your timing prior to verifying. If your idle is swinging drastically, you most probably have a vacuum leak. Pressure test or smoke test your system.

I don't think anything short of an exorcist will resolve the CAS issues you just described but I am anxious to see it. I second the request for a video.

Looking good! Love cover colour choice.

Unfortunately with the Type K connectors at the bottom and the canbus connector on top, you need a fair amount of space. I tried both locations you mentioned with no luck. I'm either going to make a bracket to space it out near your yellow circle or near the right headlight. Cheers.

It can actually flow up into it. Capillary action up the cable into the bag. I appreciate the ideas though. Sorry to come off strong, bagging things is just a very hot topic in my field. A lot of old timers did it and it's one of those things we scream inside when we see because we know when we remove it to do it properly, you'll get covered in rusty water and whatever surprise it hides will be corroded. Cheers!

Throughout my career as an electrician and then an electrical engineering technologist, I have yet to see a plastic bag wrapped in electrical tape waterproof anything. It has the opposite effect, water gets in and stays in. I agree, It should be rather well protected with liners, but I like to err on the side of caution.

I have a catchcan where abs usually is, if not that would of been a great spot. I'll probably make a bracket and put it somewhere in that region.

I bought WHP thermocouples from ecumaster. They are much cheaper then Haltechs and come with weld bungs and compression fittings. Not certain how long the leads are, but long enough to get anywhere sane. Haltech states the amps are not completely water proof so I'm going to avoid front guards. I don't want to put it in cabin to avoid the nest of wire. Rather pass 1x canbus cable into engine bay then 6x TC's into cabin.

Sold my entire old setup within a week. At this point I've ordered everything I need minus my drivetrain but It's been a waiting game. Most parts are back order and take longer then expected to arrive. Motors complete minus timing belt and Front/Rear head drain hard piping. Just waiting on one cam gear to wrap it up and toss it back in. While I've been waiting, I replaced my oil filter bypass plug with an oil byass valve as I'll be using an external oil cooler. Just drilled/tapped it and used a puller to get it out. While the motors out, I've been redoing my harness and a lot of wiring for all my Haltech components. I've also been tidying things up under the hood by painting the firewall, resizing intercooler pipe holes for 3", etc. Been doing the harness in the living room inside, should be done this week. The wife's been enjoying the company watching Judge Judy lol. Hopefully I'll finish the motor and be able to pop it back in by next weekend. I'll need to finish up my fuel lines beforehand as well. Using both 5/16 lines with 2x an6 - 1x an8 coupler fittings as a feed and adding a new 3/8" hard line with 8an fittings for return.

I'm in the middle of installing a few Haltech bits and can't find a nice place under the hood for my TCA-8 amp. Where is everyone putting them? I hate that they put the connector on top.

^ As Rob has said, there's barely a lip to seal on. I'll be purchasing a Taarks adapter to get around this issue.

Thanks guys! Very informative. I never thought of N/A cars... only had boosted applications in mind. I'll definitely be purchasing an adapter.

I doubt it. The chamfer and the lip thickness would not allow a pipe to be clamped on, not without slipping off anyways.

I meant the other end of it. Where a pipe would mate up to it and not the intake manifold.

Purchased a Bosch 82mm throttle and 350Z pedal amongst other things to go drive by wire. I know they sell a range of different adaptors for the throttle body (Plazmaman, Tarks, etc.) but originally how was this throttle body mated up to a pipe? How was that little 1/2" flange meant to be used? Is the chamfer for an O-ring? Couldn't find any information online and was very curious...

Agreed. The RB20 housing does not have a bypass/relief valve. That's why RB20's have the bypass valve in the block. Cheers.

Agreed! You seem to have made two great points to keeping it yet removed it? In your opinion, what are the positives to removing it?

Canada's big. This must be an OP local thing as my area has a lot of well known skyline shops that do top work.

After taking the night to think about it, I could see a lot more positives then negatives to removing the plug and fitting in a bypass valve. I center punched, drilled and taped the plug M8x1.25. Used a plate and a bolt as a puller and it came right out. After lots of cleaning with a magnet, shopvac with a small vacuum hose and brake cleaner; I gently hammered in the new bypass plug using an appropriately sized socket.

Yea I think bypass is the way to go as well but I want to get other peoples thoughts before I drill out the plug.

As I'll be doing an external oil cooler, I'm replacing my stock RB25 oil cooler with an RB20 oil filter housing. My RB25 left passage is currently plugged. Is it best to keep it plugged or too remove and replace with bypass valve? I have a bypass valve on hand ready to install but I've never seen any concrete info on which is best. Most discussions seem to have a split vote. My concern is that without bypass valve, will oil pressure be higher on occassions it should not or does it only bypass due to a clogged filter? Thanks