TurboTapin

I've been looking into building an RB25 on the side for awhile and finally came across a well priced one. I have a few quick questions before I move forward as I know nothing about the neo engines. 1. What exactly is different between an S2 RB25DET and an RB25DET NEO? From what I have read, it seems superior in everyway. 2. Anything weird I should know about putting these in an R32? Is there anything vastly different between an S1/S2 RB25DET swap besides ecu/wiring? 3. This is an auto RB25DET NEO. Besides the tranny and ecu, anything else that is different due to auto? I would purchase a new R34 5 speed or CD00X 6 speed to accompany it. Thanks!

I'm pretty confident a new radiator is the resolution to this issue.

There's no need to drop the tank to verify the tank vent, hoses, roll over valve, etc. You have access through the trunk fuel pump hatch.

HCR32 roll over valve is tucked in behind the rear diff. It's in the center and can be somewhat easily seen if you're under it. NIssan still makes them and they are roughly 80$. If it's not that then it's the short ~18" hose between the tank port and the roll over valve that is blocked. Ether way, should be an easy fix. Cheers.

I'm taking my rear diff off next weekend for maintenance purposes and was wondering if I should repack my cv joints while I'm there? The engineer in me is saying that grease after 31 years must have deteriorated but the normal part of me is saying don't waist your time... Googling reveals it's a "thing" on old Porsches. Good preventive maintenance or don't waist my time? Thoughts?

As already mentioned now, you can't run nistune on an R33 RB25 ecu. Get rid of it. Hopefully you're not currently driving around like that either. Cheers.

Are you running a stock 25det ecu? A different AFM will not give you more power, well not in the sense I believe you think.

The S1 RB25DET MAF is the same as an RB20 but I don't believe the S2 is, I may be wrong though. Confirm which one you have.

It's about 2-3 ugga duggas.

Heat wrapping manifolds is known to occasionally cause this. I would only consider it on a cast manifold.

This has been resolved by rotating the stator/casing presumably to its original location. No idea why or how this would cause what was happening but it's fixed.

I took my wiper motor off this weekend to clean up the aluminum and paint the steel parts (I was clearly bored). After reinstallation, when I start my wipers they now run in reverse just a tad, hit the cowl and then move forward and wipe the windshield. If I adjust the wipers so that it does not hit the cowl, they then park too high when I turn them off. Anybody ever seen this before? Thanks

Lift your carpet and remove the plastic being held in with 3 screws. Both my inner sills exactly at the same spot had decent rust due to this. Somewhat easy cut & weld job though. Cheers.

I have never noticed there being any plastic box type things inside an R32 GTSt tank. Have any pictures? If you don't have a picture, point it out in this parts diagram. Buy genuine fuel tank (chassis) for Nissan Skyline 8 generation 05.1989 - 07.1991 from Japan - Amayama

Some are very clean like mine, but a lot of rusty ones must of ended up in the US. We use to say Japan sent us all their old garbage cars... and now unfortunately we're passing it on to Americans.

Sadly I believe Canada killed a lot of R32's. 10-15 years ago, they littered the streets due to their low price/potential but unfortunately they were also considered easily dispensable (You could buy GTR's for 6-7k cdn). Most ended up scrapped. Nothing as bad as Pulsar GTI-R's though... they were mostly purchased as winter beaters and rotted away due to road salt. They started making a comeback about 2 years ago due to American's being allowed to import them, along with a huge price increase.

I wrote this at 4am. Rear main seal if it's motor oil, tranny input shaft seal if it's gear oil. Cheers.

You did not answer if you actually have a fancy transmission/concentric slave setup. If you have a stock transmission then it is gear oil and you also have a rear main seal to replace that is presumably not relevant to your current issue.

Do you really have a concentric slave cylinder? If so and you have fluid leaking out of your bell housing then yes your assumption is correct.

I'd start by checking if the common grounds between your lights and radio are clean and tight. See my link below and report back if you don't find anything. Cheers. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jl8xtprmam0iiuy/AAAQn3fxW_-jiQPGOXX6bOyFa?preview=R33+Wiring+Diagram.pdf

This may be a tad late but here are a few things that are powered by ACC on an R32 located under the hood. Cheers. - Front wiper amplifier (Box near boost sensor on driver side) - Front & Rear windshield washer motor (On washer reservoir) - A/C Relay (Underhood fusebox)

Just by the company name alone most would know to stay away.

At this point you're probably not wrong. On a good note, didn't cost all that much for decent power. I put a sc pulley, intakes, catbacks and tune on it and was making 600hp and 650lb/tq. Thing spun everywhere on 305's in the back.

I would just like to add; do your research on AMG's before buying one. I've owned an E55 AMG and I've never seen a car depreciate so bloody fast. I bought it used, must have been about 5-6 years old and I had paid 30k (70-80k loss in 5 years). I can remember giving the owner the 30K at the bank, him putting the 30k + roughly another 30K from his pocket just to pay it off to legally sell it to me. I was stunned he still owed 60k on the thing. I sold it 5 years later for 18K. 110k to 18k in a little over 10 years. If you do your own work, they are fun cars but parts are bloody expensive. If you intend to always have it serviced at the dealer; forget about it. I remember going to the dealer once to get an alignment due to the air suspension (most other shops didn't want to touch it) and got quoted 600$ for a 30min job. After a few choice words, I walked out dying of laughter.

It's not great, but it's far from terrible. I'd fill it back up with a tig in small increments and file it back down. Shitty spot to do it but doable in place with everything around it out of the way.