itsforandres
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BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing
itsforandres replied to itsforandres's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
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BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing
itsforandres replied to itsforandres's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
you, sir, are a prince. good on ya. -
BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing
itsforandres replied to itsforandres's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
@dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot! -
hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
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hello! i have run into an issue with the attesa system and i am hoping maybe someone can help shed some light on this for me. the AWD light is on the dash, and when i check the attesa computer it throws a code 51, which according to the service manual and this blog post, means it's an issue with e-ts actuator motor and circuit. my question is can i test if the motor is working properly by using the plug that sits above the reservoir on the driver's side boot? If not, is there another way to test this short of removing the rear bumper? In the event that the motor is no longer working properly, can these be rebuilt? i appreciate your help!
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ah, the nissan bracket company. let me see how i can secure the line to the strut. thanks! i hadn’t heard of this company before. i’ll need to figure out the specs to build a line. i like this solution that has a single line and uses the oem mount to secure it, as the bbk came with two hoses for each side, which sounds like a potential point of failure. or, i can tie it to the coilover really appreciate the recommendations.
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hello, everyone! i was hoping someone with an r33 could help me out. whist working on the brakes the other day i noticed that the installers zip tied the front brake lines to what seems to be the dust shield. i would like to have these lines secured properly, but I am not sure where the bracket goes on these. i have the service manual, but the line drawings aren't exactly super helpful with all of the other components that are in the area, so i am hoping that with a few pictures i would be able to understand where these are attached to. here's what i believe is the part that was removed:
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thanks! i ended up calling project mu and they recommended a shop about an hour away from me. when i took the caliper to them, they found that there was a burr in one of the pistons. they smoothed it out, put some high temp lube on all of the pistons, and now the brakes are working great. thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
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so, this happened again and i pulled off the wheels to take a look. the front driver’s side seems to be stuck and from what i see the lower piston(s) don’t seem to be working properly, based on the amount of dust i am seeing on that lower inner pad. does anyone have any experience with these calipers? i am assuming that perhaps a piston is not moving smoothly as it should, but i am unable to find any information on how to take these apart to check the pistons. i am assuming the giant size 8 hex heads are the pistons, but wanted to see if anyone had any information on these. i figured i could clean them off and apply brake lube. anyone know the torque specs for these? any tips?
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these are brand new project mu. i hope that’s not the case, but i’ll look into it. thanks!
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the other night i took the car out for a spin. after a while, i noticed the brake peddle was super stiff and i was hearing a clicking sound from the brakes when i was stopped. when i started to drive, it felt like the calipers were engaged and it smelled like pads, so i am assuming the pads were engaged. this is on an r33 gtr. does the power steering system provide the vacuum for the brakes? does this sound familiar to anyone? thanks in advance.
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Hello! I have a deli oil pressure gauge that is 1/8 PT, that was connected to a greddy oil relocation kit that used the same fitting. i just installed an HKS oil cooler kit, which also has a sandwich adapter. According to the specs it's 1/8 PT, but they don't seem to work together. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a conversion piece that is needed in order for this work? according to the greddy website, their sandwich adapter is 1/8 NPT, which is strange that it would work without any issues since the gauge is allegedly PT, not NPT.
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I was actually able to get the information from BBS directly. The original LMs were made with a bore of 66.1mm, as they were designed for the skyline. The newer versions are bored out to 82mm and the PFS should account for this. I will update this thread when I get the wheels and am able to measure the PFS diameter.
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hello! i ordered a set of these for my r33 gtr. for the hub centric ring it comes with, all i see in the documentation is PFS for the bore size. the model i ordered is LM086, which has the following specs: 18x10.0 20 offset bolt pattern is 5x 114.3 bore size = PFS I have no idea if the hub centric ring that ships with this is going to fit my vehicle, since there is no actual size noted. does anyone know if the 'PFS' that ship with these will work, or do i need to order a set of rings separately? does the PFS that is included close the gap between the LM bore and the 66.1? thanks in advance.
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R33 GTR Speedo & 3-Din Upgrade
itsforandres replied to itsforandres's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
@joshuaho96 - it ends up working out, as the v-cam will be pushing me into the 8,800 range, once completed.
