NISMO

Its a completely stock N1. Except for a Nistune ecu to correct fuel/air I use 300V as well, and generally i don't punish the car at all at the track (as my times usually show, lol) I'm using the largest oil cooler TRUST make for the 32. Sits horizontally under the car, and is extremely effective. I'm yet to see temps over 100-110, and even then thats after a few hard laps. Being that Wakefiled in the main track i go to, air temps of around 12 degrees usually help So far I've been putting in fresh oil before each track day. Then drive it until the next track day, or 6 months, whatever comes first.

Thats exactly what i was looking for. I was just having second thoughts about dumping Grp V oils every 6 months with only 1000 odd k's on the oil. I'm doing a track day this Weekend so am dumping the oil and putting in new stuff. I'm actually going to do regular UOA's on this to see whats it doing. It will have fresh oil and will do a test straight after the trackday Then a second one in about 6 weeks and take it from there

Did a bit of a search but couldn't find what I'm after. Does anyone have any info on whether Synth oil deteriates over time, without usage/much usage. Being the paranoid knob that i am I'm changing my oil every 6 months or so. In my car that really only means 500-1000km of use. The car is obviously rarely driven, but there's usually a track day thrown in within those 500-1000km's of use. This is from Penrites site. I don't use Penrite but it was the one i found which referred to deteriation due to time. Over time, the oil will deteriorate and become less efficient at providing good lubrication. Two main reasons are: 1. To remove contaminants that degrade the oil Moisture (condensation) Un-burnt fuel (ie fuel dilution) Soot (by product of combustion, especially in diesels) Oxidation and Nitration By-products 2. To refresh the oil Additives in the oil deteriorate over time. Detergents (that help keep the engine clean and neautrlaise acidic by-products), dispersants (that hold contaminants in the oil) deplete over time and even the anti-wear additives need to be replaced. Other sites like Amsoil, really only refer to deteriation due to driving, eg heat stress on the oil My typical usage will be car started every week/2weeks Driven maybe 50-100k's most months Trackday every 6 months or so

thanks chubbs personally, this is what i would love mine to look like if i didn't want to keep it stock. Its another N1, and to me perfect. I think a GTR needs nothing but wheels and the right suspension stance. Thats it.

haha, noticed lately every time Tiff gets in the car - kisses vicky, tiff does a lap, kisses vicky, tiff gets out of car - kisses vicky

Lately - 5th Gear.

Oh and i don't think Japanese prices will have much of a bearing here in the short term. Not for the regular GTR's anyway, as there are way too many here already so if prices rise in Jpn, people will simply buy locally.

re Aus delivered GTR's one sold just recently for $70k. Had all books and about 70000km's. completely stock original condition I've seen the prices of N1's rise by close to $10k with no books and high k's, and some mods compared to say 18 months ago. All that being said though, it really depends on who's buying at a certain time and whats selling. there's been some Aus delivered cars for sale for months and months, yet the one i mentioned above sold in a matter of weeks. So i guess as they're getting older, the clean, unmodded, rarer versions will continue to rise, and the badly modded, not so looked after ones will fall. You also have the very nicely modded, extremely well looked after cars that i think will also rise.

my opinion - don't go anywhere near products that say they'll last 3,5,10 yrs etc etc. Most (not all) of these long life sealants show up some kind of wear well before that time, and are an absolute b!tch to remove, or they simply don't work at all. Personally, if you're after a nice seal that does last and is tried and proven, give Zaino a go. Its regarded as one of the longer lasting sealants 9-12 months, is pretty easy to apply as well, so you're not paying someone ^^ $475 to put fark knows what on your car claiming that every detailer in the world has got it wrong and their new wizz bang special sauce is the best sh!t since sliced bread. Zaino has a pretty good sealant called Z-CS. Very very easy to apply and it lasts. So far am pretty happy with it. Even 5-6 months after applying everything just slips off. From Zaino Zaino Z-CS Clear Seal is an advanced total synthetic polymer protectant that is simply wiped on. You can achieve a Zaino award winning gloss and protective durability in one simple wipe on step. Wipe on, and walk away, you’re done – No buffing – No final wipe down. Just apply & let dry. Zaino is pioneering the industry with Z-CS, a self curing transparent sealer that doesn’t require any buffing or final wiping. Z-CS dries clean and without residue and can be used on paint, glass, wheels, plastic, or trim for the protection, durability, slickness, and gloss that Zaino is most popular for. All surfaces are protected against potentially damaging exposure to sun or ultra-violet light with our best UV inhibitors. For up to 9 months protection, use Z-CS to top coat Zaino Show Car Polish protectants, or use Z-CS by itself. You can even use Z-CS as a top coat to add high-gloss and improved durability to any other manufacturer’s product. Z-CS extends the gloss and durability of any previously applied products however should never be applied over uncured waxes.

Yep, pretty close Mick. The toilets are near the offices and staging area.

Oh and in-case all that was for nothing and you're just thinking pads, again depends on what you're using them for. The Nissan pads are excellent with minimal dust and noise for street use A good cheap in between pad is the QFM A1RM. Not the best when cold on the street but heats up pretty quick and is good on the track. Endless make some really good pads but be prepared to pay for them.

Depends on what you're after. If you have the non-brembo's they're still a very very good set of brakes. The pad surface area is huge compared to alot of other brakes. Don't think its just the number of pistons that count. I've been on the track with Brembo's and the non-Brembo's and n all honesty, you could barely notice the difference. If you're just driving on the street really no need to upgrade. If you're set on doing it, there's heaps of options. For non-Brembo cars people often upgrade to Brembo's. Though this is a very expensive option. You can also go to the new V36 brakes, which are larger than the Brembo's so even better. Then theirs the aftermarket guys. Check out the US forums, almost all the major caliper suppliers do upgrade kits for the V35 now. There's also Just Japs 6 piston kit which is pretty cheap for what you get but still very effective. I know of a few people who use them on all out race cars. In each case you will probably need New Calipers New Rotors New Pads New Brake lines My personal opinion - If you doing major power upgrades and are going to be regularly tracking the car, go for it, but don't expect much change from $3k for a decent upgrade for the fronts. You can spend up to 8 or so thousand if you go for a full Alcon 4 wheel upgrade. Otherwise, if its just a street car, go for the Brembo's for looks if you must or just keep em as is

Agreed, especially since they've done all the right things got all the right permits, are really careful about noise etc etc. Its the same crap all over again, a vocal minority with nothing better to do with their time complaining about something which probably has a very small real impact on them.

taken from JDMST local pressure is building in Marulan to close down MDTC due to excessive noise etc, (same old stuff !) need support by voting on a local online poll, located at www.marulanregion.com Scroll down to the bottom of the page an...d in the middle is the online voting box. Looking at the results, its going to be a tight challenge, so pass on this message to everyone u know, so that this place doesn't go the same way as Amaroo and Oran Park vote here (thanks cjay) http://www.marulanregion.com/index.p...3Amdtc〈=en cmon guys lets keep this open!!!

I see you lurking Jay You coming?

Def ok to import. But yeah the price is still up there. People won't pay the extra dollars for technically the same car, with some minor improvements.

Passengers can go into other cars, however I'm pretty sure there are quite strict rules about camera equipment inside cars. Last i checked, a photog holding a camera and shooting while someone is driving, was not allowed. Ando, correct?

If you pretty sure you're going with a new bonnet, give this a try. Dent removal with a hairdryer and a can of compressed air!!

Stu, if you need a test driver to do some further development and fine tuning, just say the word Whats with the knee mate? Serious or surgery and she's all good?

Agreed. I do it as a precaustion on any car i buy, not just imports. For a few hundred dollars, its money well spent.

Completely understand what you're saying. What we're saying is that you need to consider the overall costs when paying for a service. Regardless of your perception of what is expensive v what is cheap that $25 you paid is paid to cover everything. It's why for example the same places charge $40 and upwards for a proper wash. Personally i think the entire car-wash industry is a complete rip off, built off the "oh-no, no rain for a month so the whole world is gonna dry up" hippie greenies line, and if you even slightly value your car you would stay away from almost 90% of the places that wash cars. Never have and never will. I'd rather my car stay dirty than have some 16yo who's washed his 100th car of the day pick up a sponge/chamois off the dirty floor and scratch the crap out of my paint. lol, i'm a bitter man

Completely agree! Your $25 includes water, electricity, premises rent, outfit, supplies, wages, PROFIT etc etc etc. So in reality your $25 wash is probably a $5 "actual wash".

you have pm

Topics Merged. Please do not start a new topic when you're clearly discussing the same issue!

Exactly the problem though "decent isnurance" . Most insurance companies will put the value of a GTR way below replacement costs. As an example a friend has a GTR that is completely rebuilt top to bottom, pretty much every screw and washer replaced. On top of that its a seriously quick car, and has had thousands upon thousands spent on it. A few months back he was arguing with an insurance company as they wanted to drop the insured value down to $30k. Yes i know cars depreciate and yes i know you can never get back what you paid, but when your insurance only covers a fraction of the cost of the car to you, then you're not going to park it on the street. Personally as long as my car's replacement value is covered by insurance, and it is actually replaceable, i've got no problem leaving it anywhere. As for under $1100, i reckon it'll be tough to get that in Syd. I pay about that and my policy is a limited use vehicle, I'm over 30 and have a close to perfect driving record - that is 3 speading fines since i got my P's at 17, all under 10km/h over the posted limit