paulr33

get the closet actuator that you want to run, ie 16psi actuator and a boost controller to bleed 2psi is much better than a 8psi actuator and a controller trying to run 16psi

www.wb02.com.au

check the basics, check timing, reset the ecu, then go see a mechnic if you cant figure it out

if your going to do and insist on gigabit at home, i see no need for it, but if you do get a real gigabit switch, not a junker $100 layer 2 switch the cheapest real gigabit switch i can find from cisco is the 3508 its an 8 port GBIC switch so you need to buy base T copper gbics for it as well you can buy them in 4 packs form ebay as well NEW 4-Pack WS-G5483 1000Base-T GBIC Module 1-Yr WARRNTY so get 2 packs of those and your set the 3508 will do true gigabit switching, jumbo frames, vlans, management, snmp and a stack of other cool tricks, ether channel, spanning tree also if you find its noisey, you can replace the fans with 5v fans instead of 12v fans (i did this to mine) gbics for it http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-4-Pack-WS-G5483...VQQcmdZViewItem 3508 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cisco-WS-C3508G-XL-...1QQcmdZViewItem failing that check out some dell gigabit switches they usually go cheap as no one wants them and should be fine for home

thanks heaps, its working again ftp is open but i cant login can you fix that please? im using web9_paulr33 as the username pm me a new password if you want to reset it

the FAQ is back online; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

yeah so when you do DATA INIT power the car off then turn it to ON but dont start then you can set the idle higher before you start it

i agree with jono on this one out of all the power on tap options i find true injection setup the most useful and reasonable i dont think adding in additives each time is useful, i dont think mixing fuel at home is reasonable but a properly setup wet spray kit for meth / water or whatever is probably the most suitable

id say its something mechanic or a hose is buckling under pressure

i refuse to help you any more you do not listen you keep asking the same questions ive told you more than once and ive pm'd you a few times the thread that i sent you, has the latest PDF version of the PFC FAQ there is no other latest version - cos i wrote the stupid thing, i have the latest PDF you can search for what you need in the PDF version, text searching works

check the PFC FAQ and double check everything - look for loose mechanical items, look for loose hoses etc etc the PFC will perform fuel cut if the following items are true 1) if you hit the std rev limit set in the PFC (viewable setting, ENGREV) or 2) if you have the boost kit enabled (on by default) and you exceed boost target by 0.25kgcm2 so its likely #2 in your case, disable the boost kit if its on and try again

the self idle learn procedure is covered in detail in the PFC FAQ you should read this before wasting any more time be sure to note 30 minutes must be set aside for it the engine must be warm (80deg water temp) you must not fiddle with the car (if you tap the throttle forget it, start over) do the demister, aircon etc in the correct order and for duration if you are unable to get a stable idle there are some additional things you may need to do based on your engine if it doesnt idle properly you might need to adjust your AAC valve to let in more air to make it idle (ie : larger cams) the apexi documentation states this lastly - get a tuner to do it if you still cant sort it out for %99.999999 of the time the out of the box idle works on almost any car, even cammed

cat5e is fine for gigabit ive run a building on cat5e gigabit - it works fine that was running a cisco ipcc callcentre too

thanks - any luck ?

i dont think its "thier right" to be told this. why would you imply their insurance instantly protects your car?

which screen? some screens it is represented in ms and some screens its in correction % format

this is not possible, the workshop isn't liable in that way. if the workshop is open to liable for this sort of thing you would have to sign an agreement at the time the car was taken into the workshop. as no workshop in the right mind would take liabiltiy for a customers car regardless of where its stored it wouldnt apply so if you take your car to workshop you should have insurance for it

owner onus applies at all times, wherever you park your car in the street, out the front of your house, at the carpark at the train station, at the shops, at a workshop, at the MCG it doesnt matter - owner onus always applies so your mate should make a claim with his insurance company and problem solved

the easiest and cheapest way is to sell your car and buy a car that already has 300rwkw

and when you say ceased, as in it worked in the past but doesnt anymore? does the stock cluster have the same issue? whats changed recently ?

does the std cluster speed guage work? i believe the FC signal and the guage cluster one come from the same source or it coudl be a case the ECU gets the signal from the cluster trace the wire to find it ?

ill be back was in there i was near top 15 i think

thanks kaz your a legend cheers

N1LAY

lets just clear this up, it shouldnt matter if you use a motec, a powerfc, a ninetendo gameboy, a hks fcon pro, an iphone, or the latest vipec the power output should be the same, the response, torque etc should all be the same if and only IF they are tuned correctly so for the people who move from ecu ABC and then install ecu XYZ and gain power my first response is the original ecu wasnt tuned properly or not setup properly furthermore i cannot see how there would be a power gain moving from afm sensor to map sensor