paulr33

see you all tomrrow night

keep the posts clean guys, removed some junk as al has said, the clubs official meeting is on tomorrow night everyone is welcome (even non-members)

as the others have said, go get your car and limp it to another workshop and work out your ECU plans. if you get any ECU installed a "wire-in" this means your stuck with a mangled loom and a ECU if you want to un-do it, restore it to factory, change it later on its going to be a hefty cost to un-managle the loom & whatever else is changed. if they insist in a wire-in job get a boomslang loom adapter to protect your original harness and make the wire-in job easier.

s1, s2 and R34 neo are all different the main differences is the physical mounting pattern/block for the coil

you need to find pin 25 on the ECU loom pin 25 on the RB25/RB20 should be "wastegate control" or "wastegate solenoid" on your FC the pin will be there, but on the loom itself there wont be a wire so youll have to run this wire to the engine bay then install the PFC boost kit solenoid in the same place run the wire from pin25 to ground on the boost kit solenoid (black wire) then source 12v from anywhere and run it to the boost solenoid (red wire) The PFC will switch ground on wire 25 to make the solenoid open/close at run time to control boost so its essential you get have wire 25 and 12v to the boost solenloid to make it work

nengun or greenline look for the Apexi ECV

you should have read the PFC FAQ in my sig it tells you how and why during the install procedure turn the boost control kit off, its under ETC, FUNCTION SELECT if you arent sure read the FAQ in my sig and look for "Installation" it tells you how to disable the boost kit

read the powerfc faq in my sig or alternatively; ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK look for any sensors highlighted in black background

NZ

nissan part is fine - part #'s are in the tutorial / howto search do a search for "GASKET" or "nissan part" and youll find it along with average prices from dealers

exhaust gasket

im not sure, but places i would be looking; nengun greenline or 2nd hand slidewize imports (sau trader) monster imports (sau sponsor) or search on here / ebay

replace the 02 sensor - you can't clean it its a cheap part and its soley responsibility along with the ecu is to save fuel

use the std bov

stockies will max out, you should get nismo afm's they are z32's inside a GTR shell, so a direct swap & fit just need ECU to suit

upi imports in moorabbin if they are still around

what michael said + a shitload of tuning

add a pin to wire 25 on the ECU blue plug then run this wire to the engine bay and then source 12v power from somewhere else run the wire 25 to the black wire on the boost solenoid and red is 12v from somewhere

cutting the cat sensor wont change a thing, it just means the cat overtemp sensor light on the cluster wont fire when the cat is hot the previous owner might have cut for fun or because it was on all the time. if it was on all the time, then it could indicate the cat is blocked or toast might be worth pulling the cat off to check it out

1) std boost is dual stagged and staggered, learn how to over-ride it, theres a howto thread in the howto section (RB25DET Dual Stage Boost Hack) 2) its ok if its cut

i think adriano's reference is because you are running meth injection

rb20, rb25 s1 and rb25 s2 are the same phyiscal AFM the difference is colour label and rb25 S2 has 1 less wire (shared ground). to use rb20 or rb25 S1 in S2 you need to duplicate up the ground signal. the rest is the same. rb20 - 4 wire - ground, power, signal ground, signal rb25 S1 - 4 wire - ground, power, signal ground, signal rb25 S2 - 3 wire - ground, power, signal check my site for pinouts etc check howto section for a thread cubes did on wiring and changing them

congrats - well done boys

there's a few other "high scorers" some that come to mind; grepin's 2835 setup http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30...es-t151839.html thizzles GT-RS setup