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DVS JEZ

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Everything posted by DVS JEZ

  1. water is fairly common in catch cans etc. depends on the climate where u are etc. i have seen catch cans be filled with water from condensation. for now forget about the water part and treat it as pure oil. diagnose fron there
  2. its more than likely from blow by. do a comp and leakdown test. and install a good catch can so the intake pipe doesnt suck the oil from the head and fill the cooler pipes up. obviously also clean the piping out
  3. u need to test the power at the fuel pump not the relay. and remember u need to test it while either cranking or wiyhing the first 3seconds or so while its supposed ti be priming once key on
  4. jump start it and test the charging voltage with a multimeter. if its charging(14 or so volts) then its the battery. if its not charging its alternator
  5. power fc's are old tech. i agree with piggaz
  6. i dont recommend running in that location. incase it blows oil on a glowing turbo
  7. alternators have 2 circuits. one for charging and one for the warning light. sounds like the warning light circuit may be faulty. get a multimeter and check the charging voltage on the battery terminals to be sure the alternator is charging correctly
  8. if the plugs are wet then the injectors sounds like theyre working. did u only jist install the fpr? sounds like the pressure is too high and u have fouled the spark plugs. get some new spark plugs and set the fuel pressure to 43.5psi when the pump primes. then see if it starts
  9. Go some BC springs and retainers. Luke u say the machining wont be that spot on. Do u mean on the camshafts?
  10. Correct. Its recommended but not required
  11. When chasing a no start issue, if u suspect a lack of fuel supply, spray some aero start (or wd40) for 2 seconds into the intake throug a vacuum hose, then crank. If it starts it has spark etc. if it doesnt u have no spark. Diagnosing from here, check All fuses and power at ecu, CAS etc
  12. Yes link is just a tad bit different. Power fc is basic and old tech
  13. That is odd. Have u tried high boost. It will go in a different part of the map, curious if it pings on high boost. Does it do it only after a hot run? Time for wmi or e85 sarge Just make sure if u run wmi dont run the wmi out... Hey Dave
  14. Remember it can be false knock. The stock sensors arent perfect. So u dont see the knock go up in datalogit? How high do u see on the h/controller? Is the dash light flashing?
  15. Sarge can u hear it pinging? Does it happen on high boost? What are the afr's doing?
  16. Sarge, i will gladly retune ur car for free. ur car was one ofthe first i ever tuned. What exactly is happening with the detonation?
  17. Agreed. So manycars lately having ignition issue's with alot of different ecu's
  18. The part that has us stunped is why does this only happen on Scotts car? I have done many adaptronic select ecu's (waste spark) on GTR's and others without a drama
  19. Bet it feels good to have the car back Scott Even on a gate pressre and cruise tune. We did alot of diagnosing and testing, with the direct fire ecu there is only a small intermittant pop during wot power runs. The dwell was 3ms with the wasted spark spark setup, we tried playing with dwell with no little to no change, and as advised by splitfire we didnt want to raise above 3ms (already above their max 2.8ms) One thing we did find tho was running the engine richer resulted in a smooth run with no missfire, (with the direct fire ecu 1280s) especially on cyl 3 which told us there was a ve imbalance as sch. A smoke test did not show up any leaks (maybe not enough pressure due to open valves etc) but spraying brake cleaner aroud cyl 3 injector and gaskets resulted in the afrs dropping from 14.2 to 12.9 at idle. I changed the injector orings, nipped up all the plenum bolts, resealed the old djetro fittings etc. which helped but still shows an afr drop with brake clean of 13.2 from 14.2. So there is still a definate leak that needs to be fixed before we can finish the full tune
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