Chris Rogers

sedan or coupe? if sedan: amp is under rear shelf - pass side. check that its solidly connected. if you can get at the connector unplug it and plug t back in. for coupe: its in the pass rear corner of the boot . you will have to pull the carpet,spare tyre, cover panel. do the same thing. from there start pulling fuses. there are 3 panels in it. one at the drv feet, two in the battery area. one easy to get at the other a bitch. flick me an email addy and I'll print off the relevant diagram for you.

have mechanical are you?

the installer in question has NFI what he's doing with that alarm. the diode idea is to isolate the alarm from the timer. not a wise move AT ALL. look at the images up top. there are 3 diodes in parallel there to sink 30A of current. that setup gets VERY hot and will burn.

$3500 with USDM software.

considering the original post was edited and the alarm in question is hardly high tech - not really. the users manual is readily available on the net anyway so google would net it in under a second and once the car was found it would take 30 secs to nick it anyway. they are not the best units on teh market for security. my 2c.

no. but someone saw my logic. to be honest IF you clipped the wrong wire there is a good chance the car wouldn't move. speed cut device would do nicely. unless somone can tell me the voltage and frequency the sender is operating at around that speed.

I could have looked it up and told you which wire to tamper with.. need to make some of you think one point I did miss though - auto or manual? if auto it may fool with the shifting and toss a code or two.

think laterally. what does the ECU need to see to stop the car at 180...

code 13. there is a 14 as well but it's a special function not listed on the sheet. I agree - that job should not have been done that way..(nor should the diodes have been used!)

so it is on, off blank? do this: find valet button, turn key on , tap once then hold. should get a chirp. press remote. should get another. tiurn key off. should work. if light is solid - hold button, turn key on release button - light should go out. try remote. if not - find unit and unplug.

then you should be looking at it. take a picture

with fiddling - yes. zedexsix, sedan or coupe.

http://www.nissantechmate.com/detail.aspx?id=513 need someone in the USA to get it though. they will not ship outside the USA and if you email them you will end up with a call from repco here in Oz. the machine that repco offer does not work on a 2001-2004 v35 but does on a 2004.5 up. look at the launch x413 if you want to play with the internals of that car. as for software packages - no real idea - I use scanners.

you have my reply already via PM. shoot the installer that did that! FFS that is an abortion! in all honesty that would have burnt the car down had it stayed intact and got just a little bit hotter.. hell I would have at least used a relay in there. take it where I said and leave it at that.

and the blue light is doing what?

not really. still working it out. put simply though its more than one of my nav swaps.

that is what I am considering. however I'll use the OE frame to do it and route a reverse camera into it. the whole exercise comes down to $$. if no interest then it probably wont happen.

max, when does it land- fire me a VIN so I know which one is yours.

looking at the idea. if I do it the OE screeen and OE nav will go.

digimoto I like. to me it looks like what I would expect teh OE system to do but has more features. that one gets my thumbs up. scan tool I'll probably end up buying to ut out lights o these cars.

had a quick thought on this. (yet to look so I'll ask.) is there a software package that can do what the original system does. IE display fuel economy, error codes etc. doing math on a touch screen version with nav,phone,dvd,tv off the one screen (car pc.) integrated back into the OE screen mount. have some of it figured out but missing that bit. I know the data stream can be read (blitz do a multiinfo unit.) its finding software that is user friendly and not service based. thoughts??

nigel, cool. look forward to them. have cruise fully sorted for them too. plug and play if need be (its NOT DIY though.)

almost. though with the market heading where it is labour is a better option though everyone still thinks they can fit and can a stupidly low price. few people really understand what it takes to run a shop andthe overheads associated with it. for another analogy. (random numbers here.) I buy a CD player at $70 - resell it at $120. now I make before tax $50. gov't takes $5 of that for GST. that leaves me $45. out of that I have to: pay myself,pay all the shop expenses and still make a profit. by the time I do that I see $5 IF I AM LUCKY! now you want to take that $5 and say you can do it cheaper. not really possible. I watched the EBAY sellers try this with a local product. there was all of $10 in it from cost to sale price. one of them to beat the others LOST money selling it $15 BELOW the wholesale cost.. seriously sit down and look at what you are attempting. you will chew through $200k/yr minimum doing it.

idle current with car off all closed no lights on 0.05A. if more then something is wrong. battery charge voltage is 13.5-13.8v if 12.60 or less alt is dead and more than likely has a shorted diode. either way it has to come off.

it is! been there done that SEVERAL times. fire me a PM.