Dose Pipe Sutututu

I've added a second 4ga feed and still have issues. It's because the alterntor itself cannot produce the voltage to suit the car's demand. I tested the voltage on the alterntor and it's only like 0.2 volts higher than what's being logged on the ECU. I'm assuming that the Bosch alternator has issues working at high RPM And the factory unit well is just old.

they work, but they are shit they idle, but idle rich they are gay, yes.. here's an entire thread I started on nissansilvia.com about them: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2441472 enjoy the read... then once you're done, convert to top feed: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/

not of exact car, but good enough:

dose pipe

you're having the same issue as I am I'm currently running a 85AMP VL Commodore alternator (Bosch replacement) after replacing my 80AMP R33 alternator.. has gotten a touch better, but I'm getting around 12.8volts up top.. and the idle voltage is horrible. I'm contemplating in getting this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-HR33-GTS-RB25DE-120-Amp-3-0L-6-Cyl-Turbo-Non-Turbo-Alternator-/131390382961?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e977a2371

In terms of noise/performance Intima pads provide heaps more bang for your buck than QFM A1RM... I know there is a strong following/fan club for QFM A1RM, but when you swap to Intima it's a night/day difference - especially when you're comparing QFM A1RM vs. Intima SR.

Does your car have ABS? If so.. you may have air pockets in the ABS unit, just crack the top bleed points and do what you were doing before.. pedal down, open/close, pedal up.. then bleed the rears... Once you're done, go on to a quiet area and when safe try to kick in ABS.. to get the pump going. Then back home and bleed some more, that should do the trick.

lazy way, rescale injectors to 70% of the whatever it is.. then just add more dwell time till your idle is near stoich Car is now drivable and more than safe.

no idea, but I know it's not tractive effort..

I'm up for new tyres soon too, not sure I want to put NT01s at the rear.. that might result in a broken gearbox I'm running NT01 at the front, surprisingly they're not too bad in the wet!

I think if you're paying that sort of money, Nitto NT05 would be tits.

needs flutters too.. suuuuutututuutu

stock turbo should do 13s

I've used KU36 probably 7/8 years ago - wasn't a total fan of them to be honest.. But then again, they were never taken on the track. I found they did like to understeer until it had some decent heat through them

chance there's too much fuel in the cranking table vs. water temp.. you would need to reduce it OR there's not enough fuel in the post start table.

Nitto INVO tyres aren't too bad in the wet either and provide decent dry weather grip.. Great daily tyres IMO and not too noisy. At the same time, perhaps look at lightly shimming up the diff OR just going with a new mechanical diff. I find the stock VLSD likes to single peg on days, it's very temperamental like a female.

wtf.. there are two threads asking the same shit

gearbox would also need some work

hahahaha MORE BOOST yes lazy, inefficient way of tuning but at least you won't grenade stuff... on 98RON it's not such a smart idea as your EGTs will go through the roof and you'll end up melting stuff on the hotside, include exhaust valves.

and it coughs when it's too rich... and if it's too rich it will knock and if it's too lean it will just misfire and AFRs aren't that important with E85 and you can happily cruise leaner than stoich with no dramas E85 is awesome, minus the crappy economy I've got 14 degrees advance at 3900rpm at 1.6bar, it then slowly climbs to 16 degrees by 5100rpm and then finishes up at 19 degrees at 7500rpm Probably could take more as my exhaust manifold started to glow on a long pull.

just buy a premodded R33, makes life so much easier I should have done that, but I thought building it would be fun.. I lost motivation half way and the car was on jack stands for 2 months.

before/after same shit.. anymore the ECU will just retard timing once the boost comes on...

this is why RB26 owners (that have deep pockets) end up retrofitting VCT OR HKS V-CAM onto their heads.. It's not about overall power, it's about usable power... I definitely prefer my turbo on full noise at 4000rpm instead of 4500rpm (making up numbers here).. but if you go through Hypergear's thread you will see similar turbos produce similar power levels on both RB25 & RB26 motors and the only difference is the lag. Yes the RB26 is 0.1L different, but I would prefer VCT any day of the week.

RB26DETT = lag, I prefer VCT

560cc R35 injectors are so small, if you're going to that effort might as well give yourself headroom. I'm running 875cc at stock base pressure and hitting 87% duty cycle already and making only 315kW on a modest dyno