Dose Pipe Sutututu

New turbo and more boost will do it, make up for the low compression

then the stupid importer will blame it happened at the Japanese docks (like they all do)... And.. we all know Japan's culture isn't even like that. Even during the horrific tsunami - smashed atm, cash was floating about.. Not a single case of looting... even at their lowest they're still honest humble people... why on earth would they even tamper with an odometer? #truestory

maybe it's fallen off the holder/slot thing...

there's your problem... if you use that rail you will need 1/2 length.. if you used the rail I used you can use 3/4 length

yeah man I learnt by throwing $600 into the bin

Might as well upgrade the injectors whilst your at it. You'll have to do it sooner or later lol So save up for an aftermarket ECU or Nistune starting tomorrow.

DW top feeds I cannot comment, however they look like remanufactured Bosch Top Feeds or similar. DW side feeds are absolute garbage, I initially had good experience with them on the SR platform but on a RB they're just a load of horse droppings. I'm led to believe that the inlet port design of a SR vs A RB is slightly different so the atmomisation characteristics are different. Anyhow stick to local stuff, you'll end up swearing less

When you see a 15yr old import with less kms than a 5 year old camry you start to wonder Odometer tampering has always been around, since the start of the automotive industry. When I bought my car it said it had 125xxx no freaking way it did, more like 325xxx to 4xxxxx but as long as you take it for what it is knowing the real condition of it then happy days. Even luxury cars at dealers are the same, moral of the story buy based on condition not kms

yes that rail will be a little harder to fit, but what size injectors (height wise) did you buy?

and maybe adjust your IACV correctly and disconnect your stock O2 if it's cactus

is your motor timed correctly? if not.. there's a chance when your VCT is activated there's some kind of mechanical interference

do you have access to a consult cable or an ECUtalk? (http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx) I have a feeling either your water temp sensor (two wire one) is cactus

try this, plug the boost sense hose directly into your actuator and drive the car.. it should not see more than 0.6bar of boost... The boost sense hose should not be a vacuum hose.. as it's the worse possible source to use.. It needs to be pre throttle.

so replace the fuel pump

Didn't you tell us a few threads ago your fuel pump is cactus?

are you running a GATES belt? you can drive with it disconnected, but the car will run like shit.

It's going to cost the same to make 250kW

Go 1000cc, just not homo side feed high flowed shit. I made that mistake and learnt the hard way. They worked fine in a SR20DET just failed on a Rb25DET

Might as well aim for 300kW 300kW is the new 200kW

Yeah pull it off, I did that Use a little WD40 and flat head screw driver to pry them off. You'll be fine

Haha yeah man, I've got a guy that hires his dyno out to me. Go E85

Damn straight, that's what I'm doing with my 400 000km motor, seems to like getting thrash at the track too. 23 psi seems like a good number lol

Just add more boost, drive it till she pops.

niceeeeeeee don't worry about the low compression, just add more boost

niceee... about time I saw your engine bay