Dose Pipe Sutututu

might even work better than the OEM Nissan stuff! I find JDM ACs are never as good as our domestic cars (of the same generation), I suppose it doesn't get that hot over there either so it was never built to support our climate.

TBH PowerFC doesn't really show you much, can't check AFR, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, fuel temp, etc.

How is your base fuel map too? I've been told that needs to be dialled in properly as well (a bit hard trying to dial in fuel for a motor that's not running). This is my base fuel table, noting that I didn't not use a ethanol 4th dimension and relying on the calculations by the Haltech's inbuilt flex fuel table. Ignore the big dip around the idle area, I enabled VCT from idle and also pulled out heaps of timing to give it a silly brap idle lolololol.

Still needs work, but on a 15 degree day it starts by the 2nd crank

VCT sure makes a massive difference, I still don't understand why people keep on deleting it when it's not really that hard to manage in the first place! Wild powerband!

Because 90% of the installs are done with crappy fans with rubbish/low CFM, wired incorrectly or not using shrouds. Go onto those R33 Facebook groups and you just see people installing Ling Long special fans straight onto their radiators using those fan zip ties or using those flat sheet shrouds without spacing the fan off the radiator. Rarely do I see anyone do them correctly, closest I've seen was a S13 using a factory Ford Falcon fans however he had a Davies Craig fan controller which to be was a let down. Should have used his ECU to trigger it with hysteresis so they don't turn off and on like a mad man. I know they work, and work well, when the implementation is well thought out. Just with most R33 owners (not you or the other R33 owners on this forum) they seem to do things that are terrible.

For what it is, it's pretty damn good value that FFG kit. Imagine trying to source an OEM compressor and OEM condenser? you would have bought that kit a couple of times.

Looking sexual mate! And yes you can use that as the boost reference, however I've noticed big builds still reference further away down the turbo outlet pipe work. I'm not entirely sure why, could be aesthetics? Can't really use the hot charged temp idea because I doubt it has cooled much from compressor housing to the pipe work.

Should I turn it off at a lower RPM set point? Im my head I thought 5000rpm seems reasonable lol.

I have it turn off whenever there's more than 80% throttle and once it goes past 5000rpm anyhow 😀

Maybe just for the sake of it, update your firmware. I noticed you're using not the latest firmware.

Guess I didn't look hard enough lol.

Agree the Ross stuff is superior, I only looked at that kit because I already have an ATI balancer, the Ross kit would require a new balancer.

Yeah I suppose, however here's food for thought. Most of the Nissan shitboxes I've seen at Wakefield all run factory fan setups. I've actually never seen anyone at Wakefield with two thermos or similar on a RB powered car, I have seen a few Silvias with Falcon twin thermo fans though.

I am starting to think this "may" be the cause of your issues Agree a crank/cam trigger setup is superior as well, I do like this kit (comes pre-terminated) https://www.50ignite.com/nissan-rb-twin-cam-24-1-crank-trigger-kit

The Haltech IC-7 dash is great, just wish the housing wasn't so damn ugly

Correct, that as the only issue I had. I've changed those values and now it's good. Starts when cold/hot, when I stall it at the lights, etc. I did reply to a thread, not sure which one and now i've also forgotten what I wrote lol... luckily I also posted it up on the Kebab forum. "I eventually got it to work, on the NZ Wiring Cam trigger it is wired for GND & Trigger 1. For some reason the Haltech patch harness for the R33 RB25DET shitbox has this wired to HOME+, i.e. B2 - this is why it never worked! Swapping Pins 3/4 around did the trick and I was able to get a trigger reading. So in short, make sure it's wired to Sensor GND and Trigger+, i.e. B1 on the ECU connector." This is how mine is setup, somewhat pretty similar to yours - except the quick start, which I've enabled (just batch fires, helps start faster, even before the ECU determines a full trigger sync) These are my current arming voltages, which seem to be work (for now)

Very odd, I have none of these issues with the NZ Wiring kit. And I've been using it for a while too!

Haha I can really only use the AC on the cool down laps. I tried having it on when I was racing, yeah quick way to boil the coolant LOL. Although this was with the old condenser, which was all mangled.

Because I'm not an idiot 😂😂😂 Not to mention the car actually gets driven on a track not around the local Bunnings carpark and 10 to 12s at a time and left to cool down for an hour between "races".

Meanwhile I've pulled out all the gauges from my car. Less distractions, let the ECU and multi level engine protection strategies do the hard work. Will at some stage put in a small dash or just maybe a CAN gauge.

Thanks again @Piggaz, shit box now has a working fan clutch/hub/coupler Weirdly enough the RB25 one is higher than the RB25, so this means the fan blade is now even closer to the radiator shroud! I have a out 6mm before the blades kiss the top flat part of the shroud. Might trim off that flat part if it causes any issues.

That's awesome man! Envious tbh!

You're allowed to wear shorts? We have a long way to go in NSW lol. The mighty SR20, doesn't just spontaneously break for no reason like a RB.

Quite possibly, I agree with your theory on that one! I probably don't see these issues with the other band aids on top (sump/head breather/drain, sump to catch can breather/drain).