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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
RS4/6 would be superb! European cars seem to be well priced in NZ, unlike here in Oz! -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
lol... it's a never ending money pit isn't it? LOL. Your car will be the best built R33 GTS-t I reckon, modernising a 90s JDM to match your previous F80 M3 that was stock lol. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Nice! might be an option if the current fan clutch dies I really hope someone slides into my DMs and wants to buy my car, I'll then stop donating money to the Nissan car gods. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
FPG shroud looks pretty decent! How are the air flaps held in place? -
R33 Skyline rego information incorrect
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to revsau's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It's most likely the data entry person was being a lazy mofo. My GTS-t is registered as a GT-R V-Spec, and the VIN clearly says ECR33 lol. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I'm using a V35 Skyline pedal, same as the 350Z one but without the alloy pad (I did have a 350Z one but sold it as I wanted a rubber pedal to match the brakes/clutch). Doesn't say what car/setup so hard to say. Generally Haltech support is good at getting back to you, probably still off this week. Hopefully next week you'll get a response -
All valid points! Must admit they are sexy as fk, whenever they release a twin scroll, single gate version for our shit box RBs I might be tempted to get one (they have it for JZs and Barra motors already). I believe @mr_rbman will be the 1st Skyline on this forum to be running an Artec manifold Might be worth exchanging some ideas.
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Would something like a Sinco manifold work? I have been running a T3 T/S manifold from Sinco for 2x motors now - no complaints, even with a 50mm Turbosmart EWG it clears the ABS pump too! Has seen 4x track days, 1x skid pan, 3x dyno sessions with at least 30~40 hard dyno pulls (me tuning). No warping, no exhaust leaks, etc. All the twin scroll benefits, however via a single gate (each scroll is split all the way to the wastegate seat/valve). Reduces the complexities of trying to control 2x external gates. The one pictures below is a T4 (probably more suitable for the turbo you might be going for). The T3 version sits like a regular 6Boost single scroll T3 manifold. This is what I have: I have no boost control issues too using a 4 port solenoid, just the only thing I needed to do to stop boost creeping was to run the solenoid at 12hz instead of the 25hz Haltech recommends. I have full boost control from 0.5bar all the way to 2bar.
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
try borrow a pedal off another car Not setting up rolling anti-lag? I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Just checked again, and yes both APP1 and APP2 are pretty much in sync -
I was pro thick Whiteline bars dis dat as well, on the reduce body roll brigade but have learnt through experience that thick anti roll bars aren't actually that great. You create too many scenarios where you lift the inner wheel around turns or when you're travelling on bumpy roads both wheels on the same axle are trying to move together. Not to mention it makes the car very twitchy. Now I'm running 10kg front springs, 7kg rear springs with the front anti roll bar set to the softest setting, and the rear set to 2nd softest setting (allows the car to clock a bit better) and I can guarantee you it is more comfy than my mates old R33 with run of the mill BC BR 8kg/6kg coil overs. Rides better than my old king spring/Bilstein setup with stupid stuff anti roll bars. Also best part, I'm no longer breaking off anti roll bar brackets at the front when I ride ripple strips.
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
On the throttle yes, not the pedal -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
hmmm I see that APP1 vs APP2 has difference voltages, they "should" be nearly the same. Maybe try borrow another pedal from someone or from someone's nan's Nissan X-Trail lolol... -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
double, triple check your DBW TB wiring, there are some models the pins are reversed for whatever reason, also do the same on the pedal. Can you get a screen of all your voltages? -
Ross Power Steering Idler Kit
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to Dose Pipe Sutututu's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
If it's track proven by @bcozican, then it's a goer for me! Will contact them and order, looks like their eComm is down at the moment. -
I've donated enough to the Nissan car gods lol... The more I spend on this shit box, the less money I have to put towards a fast, stock, modern car.
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Definitely keen on the results! A good test is to park the car stationary and leave the A/C on for a good 15 minutes and see what your coolant temps are like. On a 36 degree (Celsius for those Americans reading) with the A/C on for a good 15 minutes my coolant temp would sit about 99 ~ 103 degrees, oil temp about 105 degrees. As soon as I drove for 15 seconds, that would drop back into the low 90s. Without A/C on at all, when stationary the water would stay in the low 90s, once moving mid to high 80s. Funny enough, when I'm giving it a hard time at the track (i.e. going around a circuit not down a drag strip) water temps generally don't move far from mid to high 80s (I suppose there's heaps of air being forced in from the front of the car).