No Crust Racing

Mate you're back, long time no see

Caught up on thread, some cool stuff and some odd choices. Amazing head. Effort and attention to detail is good to see. Went to the trouble of buying new manifold, but open scroll and putting GT series turbo on the side of amazing head with VCT?? Shitful spot for an oil cooler, you've got all your hot air feeding from one core to the next to the next. Intercooler/AC/Oil/Radiator. How much power do you want? This guys head is far less fancy and the car makes good power, but it has a decent manifold and turbo set up on it. Also, I would like to turn that into a track car

If I can, you can God i hate them so much.

As long as you beat all the subaru's.

Evo city.

You better be running a full TS EFR setup mate, otherwise your car is garbage and you should rebuild the lot.

"When any kind of flow is needed" means different things to different people. I think you guys need to go back and read some of your own posts from 10yrs ago on here and see how you were reacting to 300-350rwkw back in the day. For those power levels, even today, twins are fine for a mildly driven street car. Does that mean there are not better solutions? Of course not, it's been a decade of tech advancement, but the argument seems to boil down to "did you know that if you spend more time and money you will get a better result?!". No shit lol

Haha, Piglets rebuild of his busted Dyson

lol and around and around we go I wonder why BMW went with all the hassle of twins on a straight 6 motor instead of a slightly larger single? I guess they wanted to make it laggier. I mean, 1400 rpm is pretty shit response - A single would be on idle for sure.

Remember 32 is lighter and more nimble, you'll want a bit more in 34

Good, then you just need to go drive a 35 now and you'll have a good basis for comparison Good luck and have fun!

I drove an MY11 35 and an F80 M4 back to back a few months ago, the M4 felt like a much better car to drive/own and enjoy at anything up to 140km/h

Hahah, madness What is it about the turbo design that makes it so responsive from an engineering point of view?

Very much so. I know one of them vaguely and he was able to tell me almost everything on my car when he stopped by the paint shop when it was in there. He just said "Don't be a dickhead and get caught". Not all of them are so forgiving.

I think people get worked up about trying to choose the "best" solution when rarely does one size fit all or do we know what someone's real goals/perspective are. Paul gets a pass as this has kind of been a documentary on going from twins to a single and all the reasons why, lots of detail and honesty. I liked Motive's test because they kept everything else equal, no ECU or head work like this build, just change turbo and re-tune to suit so the results were plain to see. Is a modern, single turbo better than 2 older tech ones, unsurprisingly yes it is, what an absolute shock revelation lol Can people still have plenty of good fun in the lower power numbers with cheap twins, yes they can. Also, if mine die, I think 7670 for me and keep a stack of 100s in the glovebox for bribes for the popo

Are people really saying that though? In the modern era given the advances in turbo tech? I've got twins and I don't say any of that shit 0_0 It sounds like the type of thing you'd hear at a car meet full of 20yr olds who have never owned turbo car. Twins were cheaper, substantially reduce my defect risk, and could get me the result I thought I wanted. That is all?

I tend to find people are a lot more willing to discuss their results and testing in PM. Easy to think that might be an ego thing but from what I see around here I'd say it's mostly about minimising the drama they have to deal with. I'm voting yes for thread equality...

Need a better pic with more light, but from what I can see it seems the turbo many have eaten something rather than hitting the housing? Grab the middle nut and give it a wiggle up and down side to side and in and out if it's not contacting the housing during any of that then it's probably fine. If it has eaten something then whatever damaged was going to occur has already happened. If the car is still driving properly and making boost the same way it did before then you probably got away with it. If there is damage to one of the blades then you might not want you go cranking heaps of boost into it.

600 sounds like an arbitrary number you pulled out of nowhere? Go for some rides in cars of various power and get a feel. 600rwhp might be too much or not even close to enough. I get where you're coming from, but you can't really make a call until you experience some of this stuff first hand.

This might be one of my favourite updates on SAU in ages.

I would almost be inclined to say 330-350rwkw minimum, ideally 400, but I think we just keep getting used to whatever power we have. These are heavy cars with poor off boost torque. Either way, stock is not much fun.

Oh and from what it looks like, your 34 is fairly stock. A stock 35 will feel like an exotic supercar in comparison. Lots of people will tell you that a GT-R really needs a bit of extra grunt from stock to feel half decent - The 35 has that from factory, a 34 will need a few basic bits to wake it up.

I can wade in on this. I own a 34R, I test drove one of the very first JDM R35 imports into Aus in 2008/09 (happy to dig up the article from the website I wrote for if needed as proof) and recently test drove a basic bolt on MY11 back to back with an M4. Go and drive it and I think you will be very surprised, possibly disappointed in some respects. To give you some idea of perspective, my 34 is a basic bolt on car with 380rwkw with some mild suspension and brake upgrades. Things you might like about the 35. Torque that starts low and doesn't really stop (the MY11 was a 400rwkw but it felt substantially faster than mine, partly torque partly the DSG. The GR6 DCT shifts faster than you ever will in a manual, so if you want outright speed you cannot beat it in a 34 with a stock Getrag. The interior is a bit nicer. The 34 is basically a tarted up GT-T from the 90s, the 35 feels more like its price tag vs a 34 - though I didn't like the seat at all. Cruise control/modern features: If you want to GT drive your skyline, cruise is nice. The features/electrics are just better in the 35 given the age gap. Tougher bottom end: The VR38 will make more power for longer given adequate cooling (don't forget the trans cooling). RBs are known for weak oil pumps, oil control issues etc Things you might not like. Drivetrain really doesn't feel that refined: It still has the AWD clunks and shunts, even in the newer models that's just the nature of the beast. It does not feel like an upgrade in refinement on my 34 with a twin plate at all. I was really shocked. DCT woes: Worse in earlier models, but a risk in any, the DCT is expensive to fix and not everyone can or should play with it, earlier models benefit from circlip and cap upgrades, there's a known Bell Housing issue also. Fluid is a little pricey and there's 10L of it but those basic upgrades are actually not that expensive or difficult to do (youtube it). One of the cars greatest weapons is also potentially one of its biggest issues. Doesn't sound as good (subjective). Heavy bitch that eats rotors, plan on replacing them with good AP J hooks and get used to expensive tyres (run flats). Interior is still classic Nissan in terms of plastics, leather isn't high quality on the seats etc. Less options for aftermarket support (mechanics with the skills to modify and repair it, though you'll be fine in any capital city). My conclusion was the M4 was a much better all round package as a nice weekender but as it's a depreciating platform, vs the 34 that's at least sitting stable for now, I sat on it. I would move to a 35 that was modded, think MY11 on wards with 600rwhp+ but not worth bothering to get into an 09/10 especially if it's stock. Go and drive one.

How do they stack up price wise to the NT01s you were comparing them too? They're more expensive than my old RS-Rs, but not by much and are wider and I'm thinking better grip based on what you're reporting.

"Jacques". That explains so much lol That tyre squeal, where they still gripping at that point or was it under steering from the moment you hear the squeal. I ask as some tyres are just noisy but still hold on. I forgot what good response looks like lol