No Crust Racing

Did notice that, which seems to make more sense to me given the car is also dialed for more rear camber from factory. Everybody tells you there setup is best =\ Not easy to just go for rides in everyone elses GT-Rs when you're not in the CBD.

"MCA recommends Street Performance (purple ones) with 11/5 spring rates. They're about 2k."

I thought it was well known that billet wheels were about strength for high boost and cheaper prototyping and production costs? Recall having read a bit about the myth of billet = faster spool through reduced weight.

Preference is for street comfort. I already have a track car. I only referenced that to explain how it has handled to date.

That's encouraging, that they were better VS standard suspension. When you say ride quality, what does that mean to you? To me it's primarily about how harsh the car rides over bumps/joins/imperfections in the road.

34 GTR, came with BC External Reservoir coilovers, subframe collars and whiteline rear sway bar. Came with 275 cheap tyres, Achilles Sport something, 400 tread wear, not fantastic. Car is 99% street driven and the ride is way too firm for that, on the track day I did, car wanted to understeer quite easily an low speeds, rear seemed like it had bulk grip. Stock arms so -1.5 front camber, -2 in the rear. Justjap/BC said don't change spring rates on BCs as they are not valved for that, I'm not sure if mine are 8/6 or 9/7 which is the 2 standard flavours. MCA recommends Street Performance (purple ones) with 11/5 spring rates. They're about 2k. Shock works says "our street setup" which is a bit cheaper but hasn't provided any idea on specs. Can I just go ahead and drop some lower rate springs in? How do I properly confirm current rates? Any reviews of MCA street performance in a GT-R? 11/5 seems like an odd spring combo and makes me think it'd want to understeer. Any info on what the Shockworks street setup is? New shocks are cheaper than on roads for another car

Yeah we all get some bum advice along the way, but you are still early enough in your build to make that change. Says me, the man with -9s on the GT-R and a new Kinugawa GTX sitting on the shelf for the Silvia Honestly, I don't really care what you do with the turbo, but you should definitely move that oil cooler. I've mounted ripple strips and come off track and never had an issue with my cooler in the wheel well, you would need to have a very decent off to damage it, big enough to cause suspension damage so your day would be over anyway. Wouldn't be as big a deal on a pure street car, but you are sacrificing a chunk of cooling capacity that will be compounded as both systems are affected.

Ever the optimist.

So as with everything, when it comes time to actually do the job, you run into hassles. Flares were no different so they are not on the car just yet, but progress has been made and hopefully they will be fitted this weekend. On the back of the flare, you have a right angle mounting surface behind the recessed sections. These will work really well on guards that are very flat, silvia guards, especially the front are very much not flat/right angles to the ground. In trimming these back to the point where you can get the flare to sit nicely on each guard you basically take that mounting surface out completely so we'll be using Sikaflex as we did with body kit and as seen on most modern car mouldings. Have also marked the guards with the panel beater so we know where they'll get trimmed. Spoke to Nistune and looked at doco in how they wire in flex fuel capability and could see that with a simple switch, I could give the ECU the 5V input it wants and have dual map capability. The CA ECU has a 5V point you can use that's left over from the removal of bits when the Nistune goes in. I managed to remove the existing wire shielding and solder in some new ones, tested OK. Have been wiring in some new switches and lights for some other things and have left a littler space on the panel for another switch for a future project. Next track day is the 26th, I'm hoping to have the flares on so I can use the new tyres, if not can just run the old rubber again as there's still tread on those.

Have had a good chuckle, glad you enjoyed yourself. Now sell me your Silvia for cheap so I can track it Also get over to the EFR thread ASAP.

+1 for Kudos Great looking not rebuilt not upgraded stock 400rwkw RB25

Check your: Ride height at each corner - uneven heights = uneven corner weights and more likely to lock one side. Toe/Camber - Less tyre contact patch = more lock up.

Shannons were easy to work with and the premium seems reasonable to me, BUT I've never had to claim with them.

We all pay more tax than we need to because welfare cheats rort the system by claiming benefits fraudulently. Now that I've shared that on social media I expect it to stop in the near future. There will always be shitcvnts and we'll always be paying a little extra in some way to compensate. Just look at our politicians...

You crack me up

Sorry misread, sorry to hear that 48k is getting up there when you still gotta get it here and comply it. Damn GTR tax.

Correlation is not causation. Take of your tin foil hat lol Anyway, there's more than 1 place to insure a GTR. Deal with it. Congrats on the purchase, post pics or gtfo

No.

Agreed, there will always be those types of buyers, in all markets, forever. Some of them learn, some of them don't, though I don't really care about them as that's not my job - I've learned my lessons and made changes accordingly. If higher insurance costs stops some of them buying into buying cars they can't afford, they will just piss it up the wall on the latest smart phone anyway. Fools and their money being easily parted and all that. The cost of owning the "dream" right now, weekender or daily, is minimum 2k-3k in yearly costs of insurance and rego, end of story. Can't afford that? Don't buy one. Can't continue to afford that now or don't want to? Sell it. If 3k out of someones income in a given year is a financial deal breaker, whether they bought it before insurance went up or not, they stretched a bit far to get it in the first place and whilst that's understandable given the emotional attachment some of us have to these cars, things change and now they must make a decision based on new market factors. Do I eat this insurance cost and enjoy the car some more knowing it went up/is going up in value? Or can I not afford this/don't want to and will just sell and take that free money now? If 3k is a mental limit for you/others and you just can't see the value, then that dream has a value limit and it's been exceeded. Sell up and enjoy that free value you gained by the market shift. All in all, We can agree to disagree, good luck with your sale/best of luck with insurance quotes if you stick around.

I was referring to 34s, but even for 32/33, 2k a year is $38 a week, so SFA in the grand scheme of owning a "special" car. As with ANY sports/luxury car, all associated costs are higher. There will always be goobers who over commit and end up having to buy shit tyres and worry about insurance costs (Please remember I had my first Turbo R33 in my early 20s with astronomical insurance and was working part time and going to Uni, I was not then, nor am I now "rich"). I know exactly what it's like to struggle to buy text books/ afford fuel etc, but I made sacrifices in other areas to have my special car, and more so when I bought my first GT-R. If insurance is the straw that breaks the camels back, and $1500 less a YEAR ($28 a week) would have made the difference, you are over committing financially and making a mistake in buying it. Those people probably drink many cans of energy drinks/smoke cigarettes/buy coffee daily etc and could easily make 1-2 simple lifestyle changes to compensate. On the other side of that equation, your point about people who bought in and have enjoyed reasonable insurance rates on their 32/33 until idiots ruined the scheme is super valid and I would be pissed if I was in that boat. For me $1400 per year is a fair price for a car worth 80-90k, it's no different for a 35/M4, I've checked. I would still pay $1400 per year for a really nice 32/33 coming in as a new buyer, but if I was an existing owner and had been paying $500pa then got slugged with 2k? My jimmies would be highly rustled. Then I would chill out and realise my insurance was $9.6 a week and now it's $28 more per week, but the cars value has climbed without me doing jack shit to have earned that additional value so I could just sell up and be in front or sit on the car, spend and extra 2-3k over the next 2 years in insurance then sell up and still be well in front. Or I could just tell my insurer to only cover it for what I actually spent so if it gets written off or stolen I break even, kept my premiums low and wont buy back in anyway because I refuse the high insurance rates out of principle. Given how much your cars value has likely gone up, as long as you haven't done a mega build with top shelf parts, you'll end up in a much better position than you otherwise might have, and the price for that is a bit of extra insurance.

GTR and M3 both nice cars. What you save in insurance you can spend on rod bearings instead lol

*shrug* mines insured for a fair price and a reasonable premium. Plenty of others the same. Lets hope I never need it. Silvia dregs of society lol, I have one of those too, can confirm, am serious bogan

Lol insurance price stopping people buying them. Maybe people who couldn't really afford one in the first place maybe?

Hmm... never considered that.

I should have added, I meant for the Silvia. So the 1Nm extra torque to the wheels will be felt