No Crust Racing

If you want to do it on the cheap with minimal mods you can buy all second hand bits for a basic -9 upgrade but you will need to run reasonable boost to get to 450rwhp on 98. Other options are mild cams, say basic 260 tomei, but everyone complains about the drive ability afterwards as they have soft ramp rates or E85, which will get you there with less boost and lower EGTs. Fuel economy will suffer though, but you can always run a flex setup if it's a daily and run 98 for commuting and E85 for an extra 20kw for track days or whatever. You could also do a basic single conversion, not a kebab spec full twin scroll EFR setup, but just a basic new gen Garrett on a reasonable manifold, single gate. If you want to stick with twins, I'd recommend -9s. -5s are too laggy for the street without a few accompanying mods, -7s run out of puff too early. My 2 cents

Tuner mentioned similar, we put BC springs in. 80lb vs standard of 50 something?

I didn't do the actual work so can't comment on how difficult it was. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SP-Tools-Valve-Collet-Remover-And-Installer-Kit-SP66005-/292305739135?hash=item440ec79d7f Tuner used compressed air to keep valves in place while he did it.

Weird, but I'm pretty sure I saw a Levanta logo on it. Maybe they resold them before Quickjacks stood up locally?

I'm leaning more towards the Happ Half height. They have been great to deal with so far. Just working out where to put it in my shed to maximise height and usable floor space but also still working through how long we think we'll stay here.

I said I want to, didn't say I would, but if the car got smashed up badly or something, I'd do it as part of the repair. Plus I'd like to try my hand at it and what better car to f**k up than an old Silvia track care where looks mean SFA anyway. Postman was good to me while I was on holiday. Got a steal on all of this. Didn't need the adjustable gears but it was a package deal with the cams which are brand new in box and hard to get now, these are just 256 Poncam drop in. If anyone needs Adjustable gears, I have a brand spanking set of ISC ones here, though I don't think there's many CA users here. Rotors are near new project Mu in actual 4 stud 0_0 That's a $500 pair of rotors for $130. Thank you very much.

Lol Johnny are you gonna be ok? He likes how it drives on -5s!

Is it the latest one that has all the electrical issues? For the price difference, gotta say I'm making do just fine with the Terri (free work car). Though I was thinking about adding a trans cooler when I fit the brake controller for a pending camper purchase.

Wasn't it Cherokees that spectacularly failed the moose test, look it up, by blowing tyres and almost rolling...

He didn't say he wanted or needed anything he said the workshop suggested water Injection. Now if he says it's too laggy, well that's another story and Water Injection won't fix that. If he says he wants more power and that's all, he can get that with Water Injection or E85 - but should go 85! If he wants both, he should go a big dirty single

lol "car has been this way for 6yrs" and "car needs touch up tune" response "GO SINGLE" Or just get a touch up tune and keep driving it.

Herniated disc, damn you're paying attention lol To be fair I swapped the headgasket when I broke my leg #committment. Yeah I'm thinking 2, pull it out which makes the hoses/manifold swap 10x easier and just freshen up some basic things, bang back in and hope it survives the tune

It's mostly race tape and cable ties now That's partly my point, you don't get seat time if you rock up and it splits another f**king hose.

I looked into this a lot, but for my track car and am going E85 on that instead. My GTR is also flex. What do you want to know? You will get similar gains to E85, but if you don't want more power and cap it at 360 then all you will achieve is some lower EGTs. You gain very little if any response as it's generally added as you come on boost, where as E85 allows timing to be wound in sooner for more response - which you would want with -5s. You can of course spray the WMI sooner, use more of it of course. there are lots of good kits but you will want something with anti flow back, low level sensor AND trigger, not just a light actually stop the pump, an ECU that can adjust it's tune on the fly accordingly depending on if the system is working or not (or risk a dead piston) etc etc. By the time you do all that, build in failsafes, either buy pre-mix or mix your own water meth solution and carry the extra weight, you can see why E85 wins. Results are decent though, but note I am talking about WMI not just Water. Don't bother with just water, for all the effort you go through you might as well add the Meth and get some real gains. Water will help cool the charge and suppress some knock and that's about it.

Anything fits with enough time and money... I did like the idea of VQ37 and a nice low maintenance NA 220rwkw, but it 's not a cheap swap at all and you might as well do an LS instead and have greater power to tap into. 4 bangers keep me in a reasonable class and keep the weight balance happy. Turbo F20C?

Just something else to consider, and why I thought about finding a good used forged engine, car currently only makes 185-190rwkw and not much torque being a CA. The new turbo, cams, and e85 means I'm expecting somewhere between 220-240rwkw. Which will mean higher peak cylinder pressure and i was concerned the standard bottom may not love life - though I know e85 will keep the whole thing cooler and it will not be tuned on the ragged edge. Option 2 still looking like a good one, though I'll cry if it lets go on the dyno/first track day. I'll remove the radiator and have a good look in the bay and see what work i could possibly do without removing it, but I'm almost of the opinion that it would be faster to just remove it and do that turbo swap on the stand.

Probably not light, but I've never needed to go more than an hour down the road with it and the Silvia isn't too heavy. I will say, I had to limit my speed to 100 when I towed the GT-R as it got a little wiggle on above that regardless of where I put it.

Hmm not sure about idling oil pressure actually. What's healthy?

Oh I don't think the line failed because of the motor, it's just old and I also had an off track excursion to avoid hitting someone which may be related. Wanting to fix leaks was not about the engine failing it was more about the fact that my car is dropping gearbox and engine oil onto a race surface. I've had a couple of coolant hose leaks along the way and been lucky that I could get to them at the track. There's a bunch of coolant and vacuum lines under the plenum that are impossible to get to with the engine in the car and the manifold attached to the Head.

A decent tilt trailer is 3-5k. Borrowing the neighbors costs me $40-50. At the local track here's a spot to get it on and off without the extra ramps. Reckon I can hold out a bit longer while I'm still able bodied lol

In use. Best to have a spotter but I've done it myself a few times.

CA powered car, original bottom end, but with fresh headgasket and ARP studs. 143ks, and still has fairly decent compression 155-160 cold (new is 172) though as with all Nissan's it likes to pressurise the sump - I run dual catch cans to help this, top and and bottom end vented to atmo separately via baffled cans. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets also fresh, a few seals been replaced around the place also, rockers, half moons etc, but some things still leak. At the last event for the year, it blew a coolant line to the turbo and drained the radiator, no big deal as I was planning on changing out the T28 BB and going E85 on an externally gated GTX2860R and some 256 cams anyway (Just acquired the cams and already have the turbo). Still need external gate, injectors and to modify the manifold to take it all (turbo is T3 and vband rear so will need different manifold flange, dump, and intake). Given I will be removing the manifold anyway, I considered removing the engine to replace the 28yr old hoses all over the place that are difficukt to get to otherwise and tidy up some of the loom/connectors which are also a bit worse for wear (race tape holding them on etc). Engine also has minor front crank, and rear main seal leak - though I did replace the rear main when I did I the clutch, so could actually be higher up on the back of the motor as the half moons are notorious for leaking even though they are new, as are the rocker gaskets. Oh, also has a small weep from the speedo sensor on the box where the mounting surface was scored, has new extension housing seal but also appears to be maybe leaking from there, already has new upper seal around shifter etc and doesn't appear to be a breather issue. So now I'm tossing up what to do. 1: Continue with turbo swap and retune, do nothing else., drive til it dies, ignore leaks, do things after it's dead. 2: Continue with turbo swap but pull motor and put fresh hoses in, fix leaking front and rear seals, do what I can for connectors, new water pump and accessory belts and clean up anything else obvious (Car already has new timing belt). 3: Pull motor, do all of the above but also freshen up the bottom end, just a basic Spool forged kit or something, but that means new headgaset and full disassembly etc. The Nissan has been let out also. 4: Acquire decent second hand forged CA, they do turn up, freshen up anything needed (I just mean seals/belts), put back in with new turbo setup, sell old motor running. 5: Pull motor, replace with freshened up or 2nd hand forged SR (probably blacktop for the VCT and being newer sensors). Probably wouldn't bother going through the hassle of a swap for a stock SR. This would mean buying different cams, ECU swap, different radiator, wiring work, better coilpacks (I have splitfires for the CA), dick around with cluster, change bell housing, not sure about clutch etc etc. Sell current motor running and all my CA shit. The CA has been good to me and keeps me in a class I can be competitive in, but she is getting on in age and the boys and I are considering trying to do 5 rounds of a series next year, I'm thinking about what I can do in the off season to make next year easier. I am a jew on this car also (car is still 4 stud for example), the GT-R gets love and $$, The Sil makes do with second hand parts, shit from other silvia's/skylines a upgrades and DIY shenanigans Kinda leaning towards 2 or 4. Though the extra mid range torque and response of the bigger SR would be great for track work - even if they do sound like shit and that's not up for debate.

Tell'em the cost son

Is this a Mustang build thread now?

f**king lol Haven't done many track days have you buddy. All good, keep building because I like where this s15 is going. Even if you are in drugs xox