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No Crust Racing

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  1. No Crust Racing
    Big weekend of Motorsport. Saturday was the Womans driver training day, my partner drove the battle Falcon - she had a blast. An off broke a cable tie on the brake duct, fixed that and good to know the other 2 connection points are enough to keep it in place. Shift knob and shifter really needs replacing. Knob came off as there's no thread on the shifter itself, will replace both. 3rd is stupid hard to find at speed, hopefully new shifter helps. Clutch might be dragging a touch, making it harder to engage gears, might just buy a new cable and do a fresh adjustment. Coolant leak confirmed fixed. Need to keep an eye on oil levels as it burns a little with sustained revs. Tyres are just so shit. Sunday was Round 2 of the sprint series. Played with tyre temps only, didn't touch camber. New PB of 57.8, was really stoked about this - Class Win. Actually got to go in the top 10 shoot out as the car was in 1 piece, set my PB in the shootout, only took a tenth off but not bad given you just get 1 warm up and 1 hot lap. Clearly more in the car given the track temps. Finished 5th in the shootout, .7s behind a Tarmac Evo 10 and a Track only Evo 8, pretty happy with that given they have more power and are on better tyres. New GPS is far more accurate, didn't see more than 1 tenth variance between my time and theirs, which was usually due to rounding of the hundredths column, eg my timer said 57.9 on the shootout, but came back as 57.8 officially. I had done a 57.88 earlier in the day, but it came back as 57.9 officially, also good to know the 57 wasn't a 1 off. New Helmet and Hans was good, took a little getting used to and works out easier to put them on as 1 piece, with the Hans already attached. Won't wear this at this track all the time, but I wanted to test it before Winton next month. Spare CA is sold, SR turns up tomorrow. Took a while but I managed to find one that required rebuild from low comp, not from spun bearing so hopefully reduce the amount of machine work required for crank/line boring etc etc. Round 3 is at Winton on May the 6th, haven't been back in years so I'm looking forward to it. Won't bother posting videos as the motorsport section appears to be mostly dead now so I'll just treat this as my build journal so I can go back and reference things.
  2. No Crust Racing
    Track day coming up this Sunday, Missus also booked to do a Women's driver day on the Saturday but she's been under the weather so we'll see if she makes it. In preparation, the Silvia got: Oil and filter change. Tyre rotation - they do not look healthy at all from all that sliding, fronts in particular are really bad. Not great wear for 2 track days but I haven't been kind to them. New GPS module - Dual XGPS160 - GPS and GLONASS, 10HZ. New phone mount to replace the broken one. New rear end links. Splitter straightened. Bought new Project Mu pads to match the rotors, but not fitting either as the current rotors are still above minimum thickness and no cracks, current pads have plenty left. Washed! XR6 Got: Race seats mounted: Bitch of a job as the seat belt clips are part of the factory seats and include the tensioner, so had to be retrofitted onto the new seats (no harnesses yet). The seat mounts on the floor are not even between the two sets of mounts on a given side and not even driver to passenger side so each piece is bespoke. Factory seat is also offset slightly so I corrected that. Tabs on the seats were all also uneven so that had to be corrected as well. Tensioner removed, both pulleys replaced, new belt - Now idles nice and quiet. This was such an easy job, which is a nice change. New thermostat housing gasket and sealant - no more weeping under idle at least, see how it goes on track. Also washed! I also bought one of these 10 in 1 guages and will fit it before next round hopefully - https://www.justraceparts.com.au/10in1-automotive-digital-oled-multi-gauge-display I will remove my other guages and feed my wideband into it as well. I am planning on using the 5v warning light output to trigger a relay on something like the water temp sensor so the nistune freaks out and rev limits when something trips an alarm. That way I'll have audible and visual alarms plus the ECU doing "something". Works out being a bit over $200 delivered and includes all sensors, I've only had a quick check over but it looks decent, though the screen is a tough small. In other news, I'm going to SR swap the car either after this season is finished, as it will change my class, or when the current motor lets go. Picture time.
  3. No Crust Racing
    This might explain the poor handling... Might have to make a bolt check part of my pre-race prep lol Grabbing some GKTech rear links today, have had good experience with their gear so far. Also banged up the splitter a little, I will check the mounts as the overall angle appears to have changed with the front edge now angled a little downwards.
  4. No Crust Racing
    Forgot about this ad, all R34 parts are gone. I think I still have the CA canister.
  5. No Crust Racing
    Round 1 done and dusted, was a hot hot day and it was hard trying to find good tyre pressures. I did manage a class win and a small and questionable PB according to RaceChrono, but it didn't match the official timing. A broken rear sway bar link end my day, though given how the car drove I suspect I did it early in the day and didn't realise til y rear brake duct came down. Enjoy some B Roll footage.
  6. No Crust Racing
    And just like that... She's gone. Falcon back in the shed now. Thinking I'll have a go at an engine build for the Silvia myself, pray for me.
  7. No Crust Racing
    With a heavy heart I can say the car is now sold, thread can be closed.
  8. No Crust Racing
    Was talking to a mate of mine who's a diesel mechanic, built 1000s of motors and he's confident I can do it so I might give it a go 0_0
  9. No Crust Racing
    I did, hence knowing it had been hot from being brown/whitish. I put a spare used copper in there and it made no difference.
  10. No Crust Racing
    Who's we? Are you a workshop or doing this at home? Why are you building so many engines 0_0
  11. No Crust Racing
    So, the mystery continues. Did a little reading, ran my multimeter across the injector, resistance is fine. Grabbed a 9v battery, tested it manually, it fires 0_0 Start the car, put screw driver to my ear, it is definitely pulsing but car still running like dicks. Decide to hold throttle open just a touch to let i run for a few mins, goes back to idling like a champ. I pulled the coil pack while the car was idling, and it zapped me well enough so the spark seems good enough, unless it's a failing plug but they are iridium and the and the only issue i can see on it is that it's been hot. I'll do an ECU diag next, wonder if it's got a bad IAT/Coolant Temp sensor so the timing//fueling when cold is off.
  12. No Crust Racing
    Replaced the coolant line last night, started pouring coolant in, could hear it leaking, found a split heater hose behind the head. Fixed that and got the car started, only running on 3 cylinders, number 1 not firing at all. It did miss at the last event, but came good so I assumed it was a fouled plug from a few cold starts. Swapped coil packs, plugs, checked voltage to looms, checked compression, all looks OK. Suspect a failed/clogged injector, will pulse it manually today/tonight and go from there. Have sourced another one so should be able to swap it out before round 1. Couldn't have just "worked" could it...
  13. No Crust Racing
    Unopened 300kw RB25 thread yes. I'm missing 2 cylinders and rings and bearings wouldn't do much for the leaking seals and 28yr old hoses my current original motor has. The goal was a freshen up + more power, both of which are easier to do with the engine out, if it's out, might as well put something nicer back in.
  14. No Crust Racing
    Timing is fine, as i did a full strip down and replacement of all the timing gear on the other motor when it was due for a belt. It's the bottom end stuff I'm not sure of, installing bearings, checking clearances etc.
  15. No Crust Racing
    Good to know.
  16. No Crust Racing
    I would have thought you'd have the block cleaned after machining?
  17. No Crust Racing
    Picked this up on the weekend for the track car, apparently approx 150ks and removed as a "runner", toying with the idea of attempting the rebuild myself - which I've never done but always really wanted to try. I've got a basic workshop, most tools, have done turbo/head/manfiold swaps and have over a decade experience with Nissan platforms etc etc so I have half an idea. Standard rods don't like going past 220 or so rwkw apparently and as my current motor is an original bottom end with some basic bolt ons I wanted something fresh anyway. Parts list will look something like this. Spool forged kit which has rods, bearings, pistons, rings, pins, metal head gasket etc. Headstuds New gaskets and hoses throughout. New oil and water pumps, timing belt, idler tensioner. Some tomei 256 cams I have sitting in a box brand new. Either new OEM or basic upgrade valve springs and some new lifters (lifters needed?) New balancer. Mild porting/port matching, nothing crazy, remove butterflies and possibly relocate injector ports. A GTX2860R I have sitting here which is new, could swap for 63 or 67? A little Tiual 38mm external gate. E85 Use my existing Nistune. Re-use existing oil cooler/intercooler/radiator fuel setup etc. I would want the basic bottom end balancing done, but once the initial weigh/measure/balance is done and you install the rotating assembly can you/should you then have it balanced as a short block? I've seen people do this with clutch attached also which seems odd, given the clutch could die tomorrow and be different. Same for the head, the guy I would have do some porting could likely do the valves/springs and clearances while he's there. leaving me cams/fit head to block which I'm OK with. With the 2860, I can't see it making more than 230-240rwkw, which is fine given I have no big plans for new gearsets or box swaps. 63 and 67 would go a little further but run the risk of hurting the box sooner - Box which is just a stocker with a nice clutch and fluid and no present issues. The alternative is I break the motor down, get all the parts, then deliver it all ready for assembly to my mechanic and collect assembled short block, an assembly head from the head guy, and do the final assembly and swap myself. I know it's not a "simple" task, but for those who have DIY'd a rebuild, would you do it again? What caught you out, anything else to throw in?
  18. No Crust Racing
    Round 1 entered, March 11. Grabbed a new hose, old one was fully dead. New one is teflon, see how it goes. This bad boy turned up locally, very cheap and was pulled as a runner so shouldn't be completely f**ked. Missing PS, Coilpacks and CAS. Managed to get it straight onto the stand from the back of the car. Tossing up whether I want to attempt a build myself, as I've always wanted to build a motor, but given I was going to put a forged spool kit into it, do I want to risk having it blow up first dyno run because I missed something...
  19. No Crust Racing
    So..
  20. No Crust Racing
    I assume that's sarcasm? The body is rough as and it's an AU. I wont be actually rallying it, just doing dirt motorkhana type stuff, you know witches hats and the like and other events when the Silvia is not able/it's too hot/fun days etc.
  21. No Crust Racing
    $80 of Autobarns second hand finest... Removed coolant fitting from Silvia turbo, my hose guy said put a teflon hose on it as it has failed from heat fatigue. Fitting appears to be a single user style crimp anyway so will just get a whole new hose.
  22. No Crust Racing
    Forgot to update this, might be looking at a house soon so have dropped carsales add to 95k.
  23. No Crust Racing
    Well that was quite a day lol Had a lot of laughs learning how to captain this vessel. Start with the bad, then onto the good - and there was plenty of good The bad/issues. Tyres were just terrible, watch the video to see what I mean. They had a 1-2 lap window at best. I played with pressures which reduced the window but gave me more outright grip in that window. They will be fine for dirt, so they stay. Power steering fluid spat out all over the extractors, turns out it was massively overfull so that was an easy fix but the bulk smoke that entered the cabin was a little worrying! Clutch pedal stayed on the firewall a few times, car doesn't like being rushed into gear and seemed to only happen when i was heel toe double clutching really fast, so avoiding that was enough - should be fine for dirt as well. Seat is terrible, you have to hold on for dear life lol Will get 2x race seats and harnesses on the cheap. Suspension is ridiculously soft, will be great for dirt I think but it struggled on the tarmac. Diff seems a little tired, you can tell by the way it's pushing/kicking around that it's struggling. In the video you can see it seems to only spin 1 wheel decently when I lose it. Should be OK on dirt, but we'll see if a mini spool is needed. Can't find where the fuel smell is coming from. This club mandates a fire extinguisher, had to rush home and grab my spare and some tools. Could only mount it on the trans tunnel as that was the only place my 50mm+ self tapers could reach the floor pan lol Lucky I;m only 10mins away from this track. Now the good. Brakes weresurprisingly good, no fade and decent stopping power for what they are, ducts no doubt helped. Having shit tyres also helps keep speeds down. Managed to get a good 2sec off my time over 4 sessions and chopped an SS (to be fair, the dude had only done 3 track days ever but it still counts, 4 seconds... chopped!). Car just kept taking punishment all day, didn't boil coolant, brakes, no obvious heating issues despite 35deg temps and I wasn't kind to it. AC in the pits was lovely. Boot is monstrous and fitted ALL my gear including the gazebo lol Steering wheel is actually decent to use. Car seems surprisingly good on fuel, barely used half a tank of top shelf 91 octane. Car is just a hoot to drive, exhaust, suspension wallow, vague as gearbox, should be a blast on the dirt. Cannot wait for the first dirt event, which is late April. In the meantime there's 2 rounds of the sprint series for me to attend with the Silvia once I fix that coolant line. I wont change anything else aside front tyre pressure as I want to see what those AR-1s can really do. My best lap is below, with some bonus footage of me getting it very wrong at the end. I did put 1 wheel off a number of times and gather it up but the tyres were just cooked and I had completely run out of talent lol
  24. No Crust Racing
    Well she's pretty much ready. Did a full brake fluid flush, was filthy. Did a full coolant flush forwards and back,, themorstate out etc, filthy dam water is gone now. Fitted some brake ducts to try ad help the tiny brakes survive the 37deg weather that's forecast for the event on Saturday. Fixed gearknob as best I could, will require new shifter and knob. Ended up having to swap in the GTR pump as the AU one died. Had a spare can of threebond carbon cleaner, put that through it as well. Gave it a wash, made no difference, paint is that shit lol
  25. No Crust Racing
    Turned the wheel and the other stayed very stationary, so if it's an LSD then it's more S than L lol Swapped fuel lines around and hey presto, car ran like a champ. Rejigged the hot air intake setup, cleaned the filthy filter, will make a divider at some point but other priorities pressing before Saturday shakedown. Oil changed and because I have dirty Falcon experience, positioned the pan just right to catch the leaking oil filter. Picking up a fuel pump lid screw cap thing and a new seal as the old ones were completely abused and not sealing at all. Next up is brake fluid and coolant flushes, well in the case of the coolant replace the dam water with actual coolant. Oh and that horrible noise you can hear appears to be the idler and tensioner which is probably original.
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