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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Ahh I knew about the fronts I meant the rears. I don't run a hand brake at all currently, though I may go to a basic inline hydro.
  2. Yep for the Sil, I already have a BM50 and just a line split and it's never leaked or caused issues. Jury is out on whether 57 is even required. I don't need my brakes to be ultra sensitive as I heel toe and like a progressive pedal. If I recall correctly, rear Brembo's don't bolt on directly? But I have read so much shit and can't remember now. I was looking at Evo up front as I could grab some calipers, adapters, pads and rotors for $600 - just the 320mm rotors. They seem to be consistently cheaper than GT-R Brembos and look to be a better caliper with a bigger pad area. I'm too caught up in the engine build at the moment anyway. Do GT-R rears go straight on? Would be nice to have a direct bolt on option, no adapters etc.
  3. Bit more than 1-2k really given some of the quotes I've had (though they include assembling/clearancing the head, all machine work etc). The only person who's jumped out at me so far as having genuine SR20 Circuit experience (rather than street/drag focused) is DM Motorsport, the one who owns that SuperGT S15. He claims to have acquired the testing data for SR20 race engines with the car and a few other insider secrets. He has shared a few things so far that line up well with some of my own research into weaknesses/how to avoid etc but he is far from cheap and he's in Sydney. He's given me a reference, but as with any business, I'm sure that reference will only have good things to say. Sump is here. Got the aeroflow one, plenty of capacity, trap doors etc.
  4. I'm still trying to get some objective reviews. It's difficult as nobody locally specialises in SR20 and that makes it hard to walk into a workshop and get a feel for the place. I'm also keeping in mind I'd always wanted to do it myself, with assistance from a meticulous mate of mine who builds motors as part of his work (albeit diesel), but the cost of getting it wrong adds up quickly. I realise there's rarely, if ever, a warranty on a built motor though.
  5. Things starting to trickle in.
  6. When I saw it start heading to wards the wall I feared the worst for you lol Good job to stay off the armco
  7. AAC was my high idle issue back in the day of 33 ownership, super common. Cleaned it recently?
  8. I just bought that rail for my passenger side. Seat looks great.
  9. Attended Wilby Motorsport Park for Round 4 of our series, round 5 is also there in 6wks or so. It's a very short course with laps ranging from 32-40sec. It's a bit agricultural, but the vibe is fairly relaxed. I went on my old 235 RS-Rs to see if I could have a class win on those and save the AR1s. I forgot to turn the camera on which is shame as I almost died a number of times in that first session, to be fair it was cold but my god the lack of grip was hilarious - did a 37.7 or so and was .7sec behind the class leader and not overly confident I would catch him - swapped back to the AR1s after the first session. Ran a 36 flat in S2 then squeezed a few more tenths out of it to run 35.7 in S3 which was good enough fro a class win and a top 10 outright finish. Sat out S4 as the 2nd place car had mechanical issues after running a mid 36 and 3rd was too far away to catch me - was nice to pack up and be home earlier. Tried a new breather setup which looks like a hot mess due to piping length etc, but is finally keeping oil in the car with only minimal oil accumulating on the lip above the firewall from the breather. It's now 2 stage with rockers/balance pipe all Tee'd and into 1 port on a baffled can with sump drain, outlet from that can feeds another baffled can with an filter to Atmo. I now have the rev limit warning set 6700 rpm as torque starts falling away then anyway and it limits how much oil is being pumped to the head. Oil surge is still evident on quick direction changes, but I'm guessing it's always had it. If I manage to win the remaining 3 rounds I'lk have had 10 straight wins in my class, which will be a fitting send off for the CA, if it doesn't die first. Bought a balancer for the SR and have been looking at clutches and manifolds - went ATI in the end. Was told my shipment of the main group of parts (pistons, rods, head gear, studs etc etc) is just about ready to ship and my head studs were just picked up from Mazworks - they're only ARP, but apparently they have a custom length that bottoms out properly that people swear by so I grabbed those. Started test fitting the passenger seat, just need a few locking nuts etc. As always, here's a hotlap in 1080p and 60fps including a little B roll footage.
  10. I'm building an SR20, DM is one of the places I've talked to and as his focus is on circuit racing engines, rather than street/drag like a lot of other workshops I am interested in potentially using him to do the bottom end rather than doing it myself with a friend who's an engine builder by trade, but not experienced with SRs. He's mentioned he has Nismo internal testing data from the Super GT cars, and as he has one of them (an S15) and appears to be in the high end circuit space it all seems to check out. As it's not a cheap decision and I'm not local to him I was hoping to hear from anyone who's had experience with him. https://www.facebook.com/dmmsydney/
  11. I'm building an SR20, DM is one of the places I've talked to and as his focus is on circuit racing engines, rather than street/drag like a lot of other workshops I am interested in potentially using him to do the bottom end rather than doing it myself with a friend who's an engine builder by trade, but not experienced with SRs. He's mentioned he has Nismo internal testing data from the Super GT cars, and as he has one of them (an S15) and appears to be in the high end circuit space it all seems to check out. As it's not a cheap decision and I'm not local to him I was hoping to hear from anyone who's had experience with him. https://www.facebook.com/dmmsydney/
  12. I meant what they were unhappy about. Less braking power/too heavy/too expensive for the gain etc
  13. Much obliged. And good timing too because I have got some tasty parts arriving for this new engine
  14. Oh same for me, I will run them til they are absolutely dead. I'm switching to some old RS-Rs for my next round to save the AR1 for the faster tracks.
  15. Yeah mine have done 4 days so far, 2 of which was in stinking hot summer and some portions are already down to the tread indicators and have been flat spotted from a brake balance issue I was chasing. I'm really not sure how much the splitter helps tbh, but it looks the part. The rear wing definitely helped me but I got the biggest gains from roll centre adjusters/rear subframe and diff swap. Basically just better geometry. Brendan is on the hankooks, what are they Z221 or something? Medium compound and still semis.
  16. Yeah i haven't had the best customer service experiences there historically.
  17. I had a look through the sets of pics that were shared and you didn't really feature mate. See below, that was all I could see on a quick glance. They are all on the AWDCC facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/awdcc/ Brendan isn't much of a regular here so I'll answer for him. He had breather/oil control issues which, at its worse, was causing the car to misfire/stop making power all together. He ran his PB for the day of a 33 in the shootout despite having no power coming into turn 3, you could hear it die then come back. He's got around 300rwkw, it's an RB25/30 with basic supporting mods. Interesting that our lap times are almost identical given the power difference but same tyres. I think there was a few hundredths in it at most? Are you on 255 AR1 also or have I got you mixed up? I don't have my RaceChrono phone here, but I can see you're a solid 20km/h faster down the main straight, and of course the other straights just not by as much, so I must be making up a little through each corner/under brakes. I think there's a high 36 in these tyres with some clear track and on a good run.
  18. Do you have a preferred supplier for these bits? someone who has local stock in Aus, knows the game etc?
  19. Good info thanks, was you it you recommending the Ceika stuff also? Is that all the same stuff under a new brand?
  20. What do you think makes them the best option over something like Evo calipers and good rotor/pads? Is it just that the calipers are new? As I rebuild calipers when i put them in anyway. I would only be looking at the 330mm rotor anyway.
  21. Will have a search, have heard mixed things about rotor quality, seal quality etc. Are people using them here with success? I do have a BM50 and Skyline master now, which people have run with Brembo's successfully, but gien it's a fluid change to swap calipers there's not a big drama about going to a BM57 if required. Why not the Evo Brembo's or is that more about it just being bolt on? Alpha Omega kit is for a 350mm rotor and if the cars at WTAC can't heatthem up that well I wont have a chance so I'd rather then 320 or 324mm rotors, less weight too. I didn't like AO adapters, they are different again and used for the 350mm Evo X rotor. Good point re meat to hole ratio. Slicks allow you to brake so much harder and as I want to look at longer events the ability to deal with more heat will be handy, plus if I do have the Brembo size setup it means I can just run basic DBA T3 rotors and not need really high end setup to handle the heat as they wont work as hard on my car. Power is another consideration as I'm building a motor so the car will hopefully be slowing down from higher speeds.
  22. Possibly relevant for Skyline drivers but this is for a track Silvia. I often see Evo Brembo's much cheaper than GT-R Brembos but the Evo units, despite being a better caliper with larger pad area, require an adapter regardless of whether you use 320mm or 350mm Evo Rotors. Such as this: http://www.tf-works.com/tf-evo-8-9-brembo-brake-caliper-adapter-for-nissan-s13-s14-s15/ (This is for 320mm rotors) My concern is how the adapter will handle the heat from longer stints and the risk of pad knock back etc from flex in the mount. Car is getting a new motor and will end up on either big semis or slicks so will be moving along a bit. Not an issue to be worried about and time to enjoy some Evo calipers or better to stick with the direct fit R33 GT-R Brembo's for a bit more money, less pad area, but maybe less issues?
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