No Crust Racing

Quick bolt check on the car and continued stripping the donor SR and ordering parts. Got a couple extra pics from the last track day that I liked also. Swaybar end links still intact this time, did notice I had broken a brake line plastic clip (that holds it to the coil over) so cable tied that for now til I next do a fluid change (must remove lines to fix). Further testing with multi-gauge, no setting hold issue now, must have been the central locking I was stuff around with.

After 9yrs I lashed out and bought a rear strut brace, in blue to match the front one because that's important... Looking at getting some castor arm mount weld in brackets and grabbing a Gktech castor arm brace (the bolt in style) to mimic the nismo power brace "benefits" without the price tag. Next event is June 3rd, will do a bolt check this time after the few offs at Winton and making some more changes to the breather system to see if it helps.

How do you think that would go on an SR20 with a really good head and twin scroll manifold?

MCA usually spec their shocks with standard sway bars. Plus I think "ride" and performance are more to do with valving than spring rate alone. I sold the GTR but I still have my track Silvia and i took their advice on what to change with the setup, not even using their coil overs and the car is better so I have some faith in what they say. They did also provide the suspension for the WTAC winning S13...

Round 4 complete, was a mixed bag. Bad things GPS came loose, clearly that rubber mat is only good for low speed tracks. Camera mount came loose, but then didn't have another issue all day, tethered it just to be sure. Car is still puking oil out the breathers, so when I thought I'd fixed it, it was obviously just low enough in the sump to breath properly. Even considering the above the, I had oil surge on the faster corners/hard braking zones, which will only get worse with less oil in the sump. I thought the new gauge had onboard memory and might only need the battery wire for something like the ODO or clock, I was wrong and had to set it up quickly again when it came off the trailer. I leave the battery disconnected when the car is sitting so I'll have to wire it direct or accept it won't hold settings. I did test this but obviously not for long enough, or my stuffing around with the central locking and immobiliser caused it, more testing to do. Track was a bit busy for my liking and I had a hard time getting clean laps and a rhythm going which after over 2yrs away I really needed. Good things. Class win - 5 from 5 now, 3 in this season. PB, but was always going to be given the changes since the last visit. Managed 1:37.7 on the official timing, am confident there's a 1:36 in it with a few more laps at speed to get my eye in properly. No major damage from the offs I had/nothing blew up. Visor works well, though I did find when the sun comes in on a certain angle it bounces off the inside the of visor itself. Harness turned up for the second seat, it's current date so I'll swap mine out for it. I just need a passenger rail now, the seat came with side mounts and rails but setup fora Porsche. Should soon be pulling the trigger on my engine rebuild bits.

Glad to hear, looks like I got you by 5 hundredths, I'll take it Catch you next time and thanks for stopping by to say hey.

@admS15 Good work yesterday, you came second in class.

Don't use Tomei cams. The ramp rates on them are weak and is why you see so many people complain about lag afterwards. Talk to Kelford for Cams. If you have the head apart do guides (OEM/Supertech) stem seals (supertech) and give it a mild port while you're there. Dual springs and TI retainers not needed unless you pl[an on revving it much harder, simple spring upgrade and stock retainers will suffice, but Ti retainers will lighten the valve train and make it rev nicer, single spring is enough here and keeps total mass lower. Bigger valves aren't "needed" and will add some decent machining cost etc, but it will make the whole show more efficient. I'd say not needed for 8374 personally, but talk to Kelford and tell them your plans/full setup and work from there.

That's one

I should have clarified, this will be long course.

New passenger seat, GPT1. Wont get it in before Winton, but will get around to it.

Washed the car, tried to pressure wash underneath from the oil overflow last time, and took a very quick measurement of the front wheels and as I suspected there's a camber difference side to side so I;ll adjust that and hopefully will stop it pinching a tyre under brakes at Winton, which will be especially important given the speed differences. Worked through my existential crisis for the car, still going to build it up "decently" rather than buy something "already done". Spots available for the next round this weekend Get around it.

Still a few spots available for a blast around Winton next weekend in the crisp Autumn air, perfect for PBs! You don't need to be a club member, but you will need a valid CAMS/AASA and a car that will pass scrutinizing. Cars are split by class, prizes awarded for class winners, and there's plenty of track time for everyone. there's even a top 10 shoot out at the end of the day for the 10 fastest cars. Official timing is included in the cost, only $150 for the day! I might be a biased, as this is my local club, but it's a great bunch of drivers, a good range of cars, and always an awesome day out. I'll see you there Sign up: http://www.awdcc.com.au/?p=2134 Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/awdcc/

Appreciate the time and thoughtful responses. This thread has been good, Also had a chat with the missus, who tolerates and understands my little eccentricities. I think I'll keep developing this chassis. I want to do certain things my way and I already know all the ins and outs of this setup. It might cost a little more, but it will be done how I want it plus I'll get to try a few ideas I have that are best done during build phase.

Oh I can afford it, but I always try to be smart with my $$$ 15-20k for mods to this car or 15-20k for another car and sell this one. I just don't know what the right/best/smartest choice is. I get frustrated with myself just as much lol

I tend to just look at the cost effective options. I could buy a new big brake fit, but Brembo calipers and rotors from an Evo or GTR will be much cheaper and on a light car fairly effective. Gearbox can get away from you, tti would be nice but at 8-9k, the z32 box is a third of the cost.

To upgrade the box would be 5k for a gearset, z32 box swap is 3. Better calipers means 5 stud for the rotors I need to fit them. I get you though and that's part of the whole decision, how far to take this chassis vs cutting my loses.

Got the guage all installed, not a bad bit of gear. Not quite as much customisation as I'd like but plenty good enough. All sensors went straight into existing ports, Wideband works without issue using the output from the AEM UEGO. Had to extend the warning light wiring to put it in a useful spot, also wired in an extension for that loom so I have a 5v trigger in the engine bay now, I'm planning on using that to trip a sensor of some sort to put the ecu into limp mode (once I have all the warnings configured correctly). That way I'll get visual/audible warning and some level of engine protection. Takes a little time to get your head around navigating how to configure it (buttons on the screen + hand unit + combos of short long press on each depending on what you want to do), but once sorted it's pretty easy to work. Speed pulses needed to be changed on my setup, from the default of 4 down to 2 for the digital speed to read correctly. Will give it a good test at Winton. SAFC is now full time knock guage. Either coincidence or somehow shorted out, but nothing else had any issues, the EBC controller died, but I can use this gauge as my boost guage anyway. Solenoid still works but will need a new controller or an ECU with boost control down the track.

Not quite. Decently powerful CA is also going to shit the box so Z32 or RB25 is expected either way, diff we'll wait and see. Faster car regardless of engine warrants bigger brakes and better tyres (so larger rims and 5 stud swap). Those things happen either way. An engine build, CA or SR is actually around the same money using the same basic forged parts and new OEM things. Might as well go the newer, more torquey platform with better support. Thanks and bye

Always happy to hear useful opinions etc, but Leeroy tends to offer little and complain that I'm asking the question. Not the first time. I just found the block/ignore function so we're good I get what you mean re interesting events. The car still needs a fresh motor either way and I'd like to go faster than I am. The time attack events aren't the only thing I'm keen on, I'd like to look at some enduros as well and whatever else is around, that was more context in terms of build style/speed required etc.

I care as I'd like to enter those events and I can't enter them without adhering to the rules... Question isn't CA or not, CA is going, too hard to support with spares/performance bits. SR is much easier longer term and actually cheaper for spares and wrecker motors because you can find a working wrecker SR easily, CAs are all 29yrs old and f**ked. Not really, made the call to swap out the CA, too hard to support now. Sold all my CA performance parts/spare engine and bought an SR donor with the profit. Tossed up S Chassis vs Evo, made call to stay S Chassis. Tossed up R34/Euro, made the call to go with neither and stick with motorsport, sold the 34 and made bank. Wanted to do more interesting events and get the missus involved, Bought an AU to thrash - 2 events since buying it a few months ago, 1 of which she drove the whole day, was awesome. It's a car forum, if you don't like discussing cars f**k off? Yes I ask question =s and like to discuss shit, I also bring back results, share data and testing. If it's just my threads you don't like, again f**k off haha, nah, will keep the AU simple, means more events with less hassle. And Duncan, I've done 5 sprint rounds in the last 6 or so months, (and 2 AU events) so I'm getting seat time. Next event is the 6th.

LOL you sound like you've been burnt before mate

Fair point Duncan, but the current motor is a stock bottom 29yr old lump, she's getting tired and If I pull it out I might as well put something better in.

Yeah I know Peter's car, the red/blue/white one is faster Ls1 means ineligible for clubsprint classes for VTAC and WTAC. Also same question really, ls1, box, diff, brakes, or buy car with it all already done.

Current car has full s15 rear end with reinforcement plates welded in. Solid subframe mounts, whole thing tucked up for better role centre geometry, angled for better anti squat. All adjustable front with roll centre and bump steer correction. The last s15 at our track was 2s slower on wider tyres (315s!) with more power 245 vs 185me). S13 chassis is heaps lighter remember. My interest in S14/15 isnt about it being a better chassis, it's that there's more of them "done" with fully built motors, RB25/z32 box swaps, good diffs and big brake kits. All things I need to step up. Lots of S13s are thrashed drift cars