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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Solid driving, nice work. What Corvette?!
  2. Picked up this bargain over Xmas, oh and some coolant. Just a basic 38mm tial, some new gaskets and a generic screamer. Will keep all this good stuff for another motor I think, will just repair the fitting priorities track time this year.
  3. He was slotting it in yesterday I think, once he got some mates over to help get the box on.
  4. All this time and money to target GTRs using old school turbo tech like that's some kind of decent goal lol So, you're saying that a lighter car with a much better turbo setup and an expensive head will be faster than a heavier car with old school turbos and likely a stock head? No f**king way! What's the real goal here? Low 10s? High 9s? Laptime at a given track? Please don't tell me all you're worried about is chopping basic bolt on GTRs lol
  5. Rear is perfect. Solid choice. Looking forward to it.
  6. Haha, I should've put money on you changing the turbo setup. Good to see you making use of the head. Will be a nice combo, even if it still sounds like dicks
  7. Typo I meant whores or don't you f**k either
  8. Told you I will supply beers for the OS88
  9. Man you need to harden up, this has been a small and quick build by comparison to what goes on around here. Stop being so precious, it will make it easier when it throws a rod on the dyno
  10. Z32. Car is very basic. Only recently got a nistune, was running SAFC2 and SITC
  11. Awesome thanks. Just remembered a mate who has a 5 axis and I'm sure could help for cheap. Will keep it in mind.
  12. Edit, ok Honeywell hall effect sensor. I don't understand enough of how these setups work. Why do you still need the cas and is 4 teeth enough?
  13. And from what I've seen so do you. So I'll keep that in mind. Who has a close ratio box for me
  14. Not familiar with GT101, will Google. I don't have fabrication skills to make trigger discs.
  15. This gives me a semi. What crank trigger kit? Ross? I dyno tested with and without butterflies and the additional torque down low with them is very handy.
  16. A real CA user! Well, you were. Did you do any specific testing re the crank trigger to gauge actual gains? Have never heard that re the injector location, got a pic?
  17. Box is a good 4-5k investment for minimal lap time gain. I'm already busy on the trick as it is being a CA. My wallet and workload say build a CA, my desire for grunt says go bigger.
  18. Tao have you done many ATR28SS15s with BB centres externally gated? Keen to know if externally gating one is worth the hassle and whether you feel the off boost response is that much better with the BB centre, any back to back testing?
  19. I get what what you're saying but you know there's more to it than that. The CAs lower displacement and non square bore to stroke ratio means it makes less torque than the SR everywhere all else being equal. Of course you can pop in another few psi of boost to compensate, but you cant do Mucha about off boost situations, and yeah I get you when you say drive to the conditions/torque curve (keep revs above 3500 etc). Re the box, that was more an SR comment as the I've seen lots of them busted at 240-250rwkw, but admittedly they were drift cars and I'm more mechanically sympathetic unless race chrono tells me I'm up coming into the last sector If I did go SR, I'd probably sell this turbo for a 2863 or 67 as the extra response available from the extra cc's and variable cam mean you can get away with something a bit bigger without adding lag.
  20. Been pondering this more and running some real numbers. I don't see the point in going through all the hassle of pulling the current engine just to do hoses/seals and turbo swap and put it back only to have it throw a hissy fit on the dyno/first track day from the extra power. For that labour, I might as well put something better in. I don't on an engine crane or stand so there's additional hassle in getting those anyway. I'm thinking I'm just going to repair the busted coolant line and run it as it and buy a second hand motor with low comp and do a budget build on the side while I keep flogging this one. I don't know if I'll have the time to get it out, worked on, tuned, back in before the first event starts next year and seat time is going to take priority. Also means I an do some other things I wanted like extra sump vents and the like. Whether that's a CA or SR remains to be seen, I would love the extra torque and response of a VCT SR, but that means new ECU, (though @Dose Pipe Sutututu tells me you can run an SR from a CA nistune and loom somehow?) other wiring issues, new cams are useless in that motor, current splitfires are no good to me so would need another set, need bellhousing, need different clutch etc etc A Basic forged CA might be the ticket, in terms of ease of install, not needing new cam gears/cams, sounds better, etc? The CA is the cheaper route, even in terms of spool rebuild kits the CA is the cheaper kit vs SR, but if we were putting this same GTX2860R on both engines, I imagine the result would be largely the same, so do I just go the cheaper route and stay loyal to the CA or do I spend a bit extra and have the more torquey and responsive setup then start blowing gearboxes? It's just so damn gutless torque wise currently.
  21. Will be very old info, dont by any Tomei drop in rubbish. Go speak to Kelford/Camtech etc and talk about your setup and have them recommend you a cam.
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