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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No Crust Racing
    Current car has full s15 rear end with reinforcement plates welded in. Solid subframe mounts, whole thing tucked up for better role centre geometry, angled for better anti squat. All adjustable front with roll centre and bump steer correction. The last s15 at our track was 2s slower on wider tyres (315s!) with more power 245 vs 185me). S13 chassis is heaps lighter remember. My interest in S14/15 isnt about it being a better chassis, it's that there's more of them "done" with fully built motors, RB25/z32 box swaps, good diffs and big brake kits. All things I need to step up. Lots of S13s are thrashed drift cars
  2. No Crust Racing
    Lol I just mean I have used cable ties rather than buying custom billet brackets etc
  3. No Crust Racing
    And that's always a risk, how well it's been done, but it would be unfair if me to judge others knowing I have been learning along the way. Keeping in mind the current car is already a dedicated track car, just low powered CA18, stock box, minor diff upgrade and skyline brakes all round. The next steps are all costly ones other than just doing a mild forged SR swap and leaving all else as is til it breaks.
  4. No Crust Racing
    At a cross roads with the S13, I've done up a parts list for what I need/want to take the car to the next level and there's easily 15-20k in parts and labour for a built motor, box and diff swap to handle it, and brakes to slow it all down + misc bits. Then there's the time required to do all of those things as I always do the bits I can myself. For that money I could buy another S14/S15 track car with the vast majority of that already done (motor/box/diff at least), but with the risk of it not being done properly or being a time bomb - I have made the call to stick with S chassis/Nissan as I like the fun/challenge of RWD and it's a platform I know and can support. 33 or 34 could also be an option. The end goal would be VTAC/WTAC in Clubsprint + various other sprint type events, and maybe some enduros, and to be in the upper end of the field where possible. Time attack series means the cars must retain brand of engine/cylinder count from original chassis. How the hell do people make a call on how far to take the current platform vs knowing when to get into something else?
  5. No Crust Racing
    Guys in the club using mediums without issue, though they can struggle in a top 10 shoot out (1x warm up, 1x hot lap only) but they are getting them second hand for $200 a set as they all run 18x10 on skylines or with heaps of guard work in anything else.
  6. No Crust Racing
    Where to after AR1s? Better semis or slicks? I was thinking full slicks to handle the extra grunt from an engine swap end of this year, but my problem is space. I don't like the big 45-50mm flares so I only fitted 25-30mm and that looks perfect with a 9" rim 255 tyre and -3.5 front camber (don't have heaps of shock clearance left). To go wider would mean more "poke" so what would be the next step in better semis, and if slicks, I don't fully get slick sizing so help would be great
  7. No Crust Racing
    EFRs are stupid expensive and this car has always been a budget build, though I will splash out a little on this motor. Plus, to be honest, I've always wanted an external gate/screamer setup for the noise/fun. I'm looking at a rotating assembly that's 8.5:1 at the moment, how far can I bump that with a head skim/thinner gasket/any other tricks? As I'd ;like the higher static comp to help spool the bigger turbo I'll end up with for the power goal.
  8. No Crust Racing
    Juicy
  9. No Crust Racing
    Come in T4 and Twin Scroll? What's response on it like?
  10. No Crust Racing
    and what if the goal was morel like 350? and it could go on a full Ts manifold and had a good head supporting it?
  11. No Crust Racing
    Nobody else seems to see 300 on the SS15, is it manifolds and cams making the difference?
  12. No Crust Racing
    Duty cycle/Gain (on the solenoid/EBC) How hard/fast you allow the turbo to reach target boost.
  13. No Crust Racing
    Yes wold def have it checked.
  14. No Crust Racing
    Odd the email i got for this post update had 10k in it? Missed a receipt did you lol Not looking to build a baller head, not need for my purpose.
  15. No Crust Racing
    Yeah, no.
  16. No Crust Racing
    It's only that the head is complete with all that gear in it already. Seemed like an odd combo, he's got a stroker kit there with that head, not sure on the crank brand, only that it's 92mm, billet, knife edged. Anything i could find was 91mm. Custom JE pistons, so it could be a very fun combo with a 30 frame on it. That whole collection of parts was very competitively priced.
  17. No Crust Racing
    Also thoughts on Solid heads? Some parts I'm being offered includes a head. "tomei solid head, brand new rocker arms, tomei ras, tomei cam gears and 260 cams supertech dual valve springs, ti retainers, valve stem seals and 1mm oversized in/ex valves and ported and polished to suit" I like everything except the solid component as I worry about the maintance ongoing, but it's done only 2 dyno runs an is and is very cheap. Could swap out the cams and lifters for hydraulic? Or just learn how to check/adjust clearances on the reg?
  18. No Crust Racing
    Thoughts on parts from Goleby's? Their timing chain kit is half the prie of OEM, includes cam gears also. Their lifters, Nason Engine parts? $100 for a full set versus $800 or so for OEM. I will go with Ross race series or OEM for balancer, but some of this other stuff, is there much in it quality wise? Looking at either BC or PErformance Springs, both around the same price. Worth looking at tomei/other rocker arms?
  19. No Crust Racing
    Good to know, that's one issue avoided hopefully.
  20. No Crust Racing
    Doing more reading of course and hearing some interesting things. Avoid cometic head gaskets? Consider wedges between bores in the cooling slits to avoid deformation (seems extreme for a mild build) Run a "modified" S15 pickup instead of S13, though mine appears the same as the one that Taarks sells as being the "updated" version. Avoid spool rods? S14 girdle instead, required line bore I'd guess. ??
  21. No Crust Racing
    Mazworks show very good gains from their intake manifold, the idea being that those supporting parts can help a smaller turbo reach the goal, like I did I my GT-R. Plus highport looks aids and puts all the hoses/sensors under the manifold in a shit spot. What do you suggest on valvetrain? As stated it will get springs and rocker arm stoppers with fresh lifters. When I say GTX I just mean Kinugawa variety, not sure if they are Gen2 or not, unless a second hand Gen 2 comes up. And if so, 67 or 71? Injector conversion is just a fuel rail isn't it? Radiator will be upgraded, I already have an oil cooler setup in the car with thermostat and relocator, I can just change the sandwich plate and keep using it - though I may go for a bigger core. I'm also looking at replacing factory bonnet with vented and it currently runs radiator air guide and factory clutch/fan setup which will stay as they work.
  22. No Crust Racing
    Depends on what needs replacing. It'll get stoppers, it'll get new lifters and better springs. I would've assumed the retainers were fine and the valves themselves have no impact on relaibility? Are you talking solid conversion? IF so I'll pass purely due to maintenance. Cams don't seem to need to be as aggressive on SRs to flow power, maybe because they have so much more lift compared to CA/RB26? Spool list 8.5 (stock I think?) 9.0 and 11.0:1 as options. As above Spool list 8.5 (stock I think?) 9.0 and 11.0:1 as options. 11:1 seems crazy. I'ms sure I could get something custom, but this is a mid tier build, so maybe 9:1 is the answer.
  23. No Crust Racing
    Going to get the current motor through this season to stay in my class and do a swap end of year, going from CA to SR, have already started dissembling the SR for a basic forged rebuild - this is not an all out no expense spared deal but "sensible" with some niceties . Dedicate track (grip) car so not after dyno queen performance. The goal is to have the headroom for 300-320rwkw on e85 and whatever it makes on 98. I realise this will mean a box swap as well. Car is highport/redtop so no VCT. Expecting bore to be 86 or 86.5mm. Plan was to base it off the Spool rebuild kit (CP pistons, not Ross) and add ARP main studs to that kit, plus new gaskets,hoses, fresh oem water/oil pump/timing kit/balancer, basic valve spring/cam upgrade and a mild port/cleanup etc etc. Things I'm unsure of. 8.5 or 9:1 compression? Higher = better spool for larger turbo, but more prone to knock or not an issue on e85 and just run less timing? How big to go with Cams, 256-264 range? Will stick with hydraulic lifters but will buy new ones and add rocker are stoppers, plus I don't bounce it off the limiter. Worth bothering with something like this intake manifold? Mazworks claim no lose of response with theirs, awaiting info on this cheaper version. https://otakugarage.com.au/product/otaku-garage-billet-intake-manifold-forward-facing-plenum-sr20det-s13-s14-s15-180sx-240sx/ Can either add wastegate port to stock manifold and give it a basic tidy up or hunt around for second hand 6boost etc if the cost is worth it. Can also ebay something like this - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Twin-Scroll-Turbo-Manifold-T3-SCHEDULE40-FOR-Silvia-240SX-S13-S14-S15-SR20DET/192490055785?hash=item2cd14d2869:g:0j0AAOSwnONZBEhW What turbo? Have looked at GTX3067, but I'm not convinced it will get to 300, it might with better intake manifold, gated, etc? Looked at GTX3071, EFR 6758/7163 (bonus of seemingly being able to make the power on IWG setup and does come in T25 config plus everyone ravs about the transient but very expensive. Kinugawa version GTX seems to be in the middle, new for 1400 or so, but then why not Hypergear etc? I ask here as Silvia forums is dead and asking on the Facebook groups is just painful having to deal with the morons.
  24. No Crust Racing
    @hyper-gear Your recommendation for fastest spooling 300rwkw capable turbo for an SR20 on e85 with all the usual supporting mods? undecided on cams or compression at this stage. considering options from stock manifold with ext gate welded on through to a "decent" stainless TS manifold but still open scroll turbo and gated. Comp will either be 8.5:1 or 9:1, I'll try and get some info about pros and cons, I know the higher comp will bring a bigger turbo on sooner. Considered things like GTX 3067/71 and EFR 6758/7163. Dedicated track car, response matters as does linear power.
  25. No Crust Racing
    AR1 update from me. I am progressively going faster and resetting my PB as the weather cools off, seems it was a bit unfair to buy the AR1 in summer and expect 2 secs straight up vs the old ones in cooler weather. They do wear faster than the RS-R I had and are very sensitive to pressures/heat soak. Seemingly preferring high pressures but at the same time needing to be cooled after a few hot laps with the higher pressures and camber. I've done 3 track days, only a few hundred k's and already they are on the tread indicators - but those first 2 days were in 35deg heat and one of those days i had busted rear sway bar end links and slide all over the place, torching the tyres in the process and still managed a small PB. I will either move to better semis next or look at what options I have in slicks for next season to coincide with an engine swap/power upgrade.
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