SiR_RB

some people are getting mid to high 11sec with around 300awkw GTR's, so im assuming with that sort of power 11 flat should be very acheivable

Lol that's MAD ! I think your cooler may need a clean

Yeh sell the gtst and get a GTR dude you won't be disappointed. Prices hav come down so you can grab a nice one for that sort of money these days

ive got the opposite problem, cold starts fine, but does the same thing you describe when i start it up hot lol dont know what it can be

+1 for jez and his work/tuning top bloke !

Love when I see eBay ones with the advance and retard markings the wrong way around lol +1 greddy cam gears

Oh crap got a surprise bday Party that night, maybe I can surprise them by not showing up ha

SOLD

dunno but the car basicaly needs to be bone cold ie. be off for 5hours or more so it can start normal, anything less then that and it has the shits starting lol weird :S

got a link of them mate? pretty interested !

It's on the drivers side facing the front on the tank

yeh forgot to mention, changed from my heat range 6 iridiums (were on the car when i got it) to bcpr7es 0.8mm copper plugs, but these made the car hesitate and jerk when driven while cold until the car warmed up. so i ended up putting fresh iridiums in, heat range 6 @ 1.1mm gap with new coilpacks car still had the iridiums in that were on the car when i bought it and then out of no where started doing this, the problem didnt start after i changed plugs, which i then changed back to the ones originaly on the car as it was running perfect for 1 year with them thanks for the input guys !

tonight after coffee, the car was sitting for 1 hour, it just wouldnt start, the worse its ever been ! kept cranking and cranking then went to fire but the revs were so low it died and continued cranking. :S ok il give the temp of the car when i go to restart it and it does this also it was doing this few weeks before i got the nistune, so got nothing to do with ecu

for the past few months now, my car is realy hard to start when its hot. cold start is perfect and fires up straight away and idles perfect, but when the car is hot and i turn it off for about 15mins or more it takes along time to get it started, it just keeps cranking, then it goes to start but the revs are very very low and you need to continue cranking until finaly it starts, sometimes have to pump the accelerator to help it fire up ! ive also noticed if you turn it off, then back on after only afew minutes it will start first go, no probs :S so only happens when its sitting for about 15mins or more... things ive tried/replaced but still no luck: turn on the ignition and let fuel pump finish priming then start. still no different new coilpacks/coil pack loom/spark plugs Sard 280lp/h fuel pump with direct battery power feed timing belt quadtriple checked and timing is spot on compression test @ 160-162psi accross each cylinder r33 gtr air flow meters, cleaned and tested its realy annoying any help would be great ! tonight i went for coffee with the misses, got back to the car and it wouldnt start for ages, just kept crankiiiiiing seems like it could be getting worse thanks guys

awesome cheers you have pm !

spotted justjap's R35 GTR plates ATTKD on Alfreds Point bridge heading towards Menai, looked awesome

ive got a heap of caltex servos around me selling eFlex...very tempting to go down this route lol

i had the same problem, was running 18.5psi but at peak power boost was dropping to abit under 17psi cranked up the gain until it held 18psi to redline they take awhile to set up... also turning up only the gain, will increase your overall boost. you might find you will have to turn the boost % down afew notches as the gain is increased trial and error mate until you find the sweet spot

Got a pic of the induction pipes?

What diameter?

How many Kms to a tank are ppl getting roughly with eflex/e85 ? Spoke to my mate yesterday with an evo, his getting 200kms per tank @ 260awkw with eFlex...that's horrible

soo many pages and options on my old r33 gtst - 200kw, i had standard rotors/brake lines/ bendix ultimates front and rear seemed to be a great pad for street use but were harsh on the rotors. now i got an r32 gtr, should be pushing about 290rwkw soon, standard front and rear rotors (machined), standard lines, brake air guides, cusco cylinder brace. street driven, which pad is recommended for maximum bite both hot and cold, with low noise..not too fussed about dust as i wash my car once a week

In, pending on date yiewww

when i changed my stock turbos to -7's there was no way in hell i was gonna put back the stock dump pipes, while everything is out you may aswell do it i got lucky and found some r34 gtr dump pipes, much much better design than the old 32/33 items

bump...anyone