Merli

You can't activate the nitrous whilst standing still... I believe the Croydon Wholesalers GTR in NZ accidentally did that whilst staging, and completely ripped their intake plenum in half Impressive. Usually, with strong engines, you don't have an microswitch on the throttle, you'd have a button on the steering wheel, so you can activate the nitrous even if you're not WOT. This way, as soon as you start moving (launch), you can activate the nitrous and use it right from the get go. Be warned though, nitrous oxide creates some FEARSOME in-cylinder pressures, and can be deadly for stock engines at low RPM... That is why it is only recommended to activate it above 3000rpm. But with built engines with uprated conrods, you can use it right from the start and spool up those big turbos! It's the extreme heat cycles that hurts the block and pistons. Whilst on nitrous, there are EXTREME in-cylinder pressues and heat... then when you get off the nitrous, it cools down, then you activate the nitrous again and you heat cycle the engine something horrid. It's not that your engine can't take the heat, it would be that your pistons can't take it, and just melt. That's what happens if you use too high a hp shot... Solution? Reduce the size shot you use. Most stock engines will handle a 50hp shot without any worries whatsoever, even 4G93 1.8 Litre Mistubishi engines But if you try and put a 200hp shot on there, prepare to be lifting a fused block out of your engine bay As for what's better, more hp for less time or less hp for longer, I quite honestly don't know. I would assume less hp for the entire duration of the run would be easier on the engine. Nitrous is usually measured in pounds, I'm not sure why. A common bottle that comes with kits is a 10lb bottle. For a 200hp shot, you'd get maybe 3 or 4 passes out of a 10lb bottle which costs ~$80-90 to refill. This is assuming 10-12 second passes... 200hp is a LOT btw... The effect of nitrous is multiplied on a turbo engine because of it's cooling effect... Most RB26s use a 150hp (6x 25hp direct port jets)...

Firstly, the chemical formula for Nitrous Oxide is N20. Two atoms of Nitrogen, One atom of Oxygen. Not NO5. Let me try and explain it again. These are (an example of) your revs during a 1/4 mile pass: 1st gear: 4000rpm - 8000rpm 2nd gear: 5500rpm - 8000rpm 3rd gear: 5500rpm - 8000rpm 4th gear: 5500rpm - finish line. I said 5500rpm, because when you change gears, revs don't drop back to 3000rpm, they only drop a bit, and I used 5500rpm as an example. So from that example above, you're able to use nitrous throughout the ENTIRE RUN, just as you would with a non-nitroused engine, bar the initial launch, where you're not 100% wide open throttle.

I shall ignore your son from hereon in. Please urge him to register his own account before he taints your name further. I don't seem to understand your calculations. You're not just pressing the button for 0.4 seconds... you're acutally holding it down for the length of the run. Okay. Lets start from the beginning. Your nitrous is usually armed via two or three switches. The first primary arm is the big aircraft-missile switch that seems to be so popular. The secondary arm is either a microswitch on the throttle that activates on WOT, a button on the steering wheel, or an aux output from your ECU's TPS on WOT. All arming switches must be activated for nitrous to squirt. Assume you have a microswitch on your throttle for this explanation. So you launch your car. With a proper launch, you shouldn't ever drop below 3000rpm, agreed? So lets assume that you launch at about 4000rpm, and it drops to 3000rpm... by the time it gets back upto 4000rpm, you have the clutch completely engaged and the foot mashes the accelerator against the firewall. This engages the nitrous. It's not for 0.4 seconds, it's from 4000rpm to 8000rpm, then a pause when you lose ALL power as you change gears (doesn't matter if you're making 500hp without nitrous, you're not using ANY of it during gear changes), then as soon as you get into 2nd gear, you mash the throttle, again activating the nitrous from say 5500rpm to 8000rpm. Repeat for the length of the run. So as you can hopefully see from that illustration, you're actually using nitrous for the whole run, bar the first 30 feet whilst you're still slipping the clutch and not flooring the car and subsequently activating the nitrous. Could you please explain the 40 revolutions out of 1200 to me? I honestly have no idea where that is calculated from... It seems to only make sense if you're assuming 0.4 seconds of activation which is completely false. Andrew.

Yes, I read that reply before you deleted it Son of Sydney Kid. Perhaps you should let your father do the replying, lest you make more of a fool of yourself and have to resort to deleting your posts again.

Right. You have just proved that you have abosolutely ZERO idea about nitrous oxide. After replying to this post, I shall ignore all subsequent posts from you on this topic. Who the hell squirts nitrous at 6000rpm? It is recommended to be activated at 3000rpm, or lower for internally strengthened engines (stronger rods). That 40 revolutions bullshit is the weakest load of bullshit I have ever heard spouted as argument against nitrous EVER. Thanks for making me sit at my computer staring in bewilderment that someone actually wrote and believed that rubbish. Built engines can activate nitrous right off the starting line and hold it activated all the way down the strip... More stock cars usually have to wait until the clutch is fully engaged before activating nitrous, at which stage they should be way above 3000rpm anyway, so they're using nitrous from about 30 foot until the end of the 1/4 mile. What the hell was that about 0.4 seconds???? :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: And what in God's name is this rubbish? You're injecting it into your engine as an extra source of oxygen, not inhaling it. You have just surpassed your previous paragraphs in the "WTF-o-meter scale" with this medical drivel as argument against nitrous in an automotive application. I must say, with no animosity or rudeness, that after reading this post, you have lost a lot of my respect as a source of automotive knowledge. Utter drivel.

@ all the narrow minded, anti-nitrous people. You remind me of the same, narrow-minded, anti-turbo, V8 brigade 15-20 years ago who called turbochargers "cheating", and the shunned new technology. Mostly after their pride and joy GTHO was just chopped HARD by a turbocharged Charade (true story acutally)... Nitrous is just another form of forced induction, and although limited and specific in it's uses, I would HARDLY call it cheating. That just seems to be the most common losers' warcry.

Why wouldn't you just post the pics on here to save people having to ask you for them over and over and over again?

Motion to call SW20-GT, "Tush" instead of "Tosh" Do I hear a second?

600hp emailed the photos to me and asked me to link them to the thread, so without further ado:

Please state your email address, so I can email you... Cheers.

I never understood why people don't just post pics in the thread.... Surely it would be easier than typing out, attaching and sending out 10 emails...

How much for these two? 1 rb26dett stock boost solenoid 1 rb26dett boost sensor

That's not exactly "tuning" it, is it? Yes, the neatest way is to use an auxillary output as a secondary arming switch, instead of a microswitch on the throttle body/accelerator pedal... Makes it much more stealthy But as rev210 said, with a wet system, the fogger gives perfect fuel for the nitrous shot, so no extra "tuning" is required with a small 50-100 shot.

wtf? $300 to adjust the height of coilovers? I'll do it for a beer. I would have said a 6 pack, but I'll have finished lowering the car before I finished one beer. Seriously, get a C-spanner, and do it yourself, nothing could be easier.

INASNT: What do you suggest to Matt to "use to tune the nos"??

Are you still aiming to get 12s without nitrous, stock turbo?

Easy Pod Filters Turbo Back Exhaust ECU (PowerFC) 600cc+ Injectors Big Fuel Pump Bigger Front Mount (600x300x100-ish) Your choice of turbos: HKS GT2510 - 500hp Nismo N1 Turbos - 500hp HKS GT2530 - 550-600hp HKS GT2540 - 600-650hp Those are rough figures (so don't all reply saying GT2510s can make 510hp), just so you get a feel for the comparative sizing of the turbos. Any of them will get you past 500hp fairly easily... Depends how much more than 500hp you want, and how much bottom end response you're willing to give up for the extra top end power. Recommended ancillary upgrades to handle the power: Twin plate clutch Oil cooler Brake upgrade (pads, braided lines, good fluid)

The more I look at that dynosheet, the more I say: "What the...."

Here's a higher res copy of the dyno sheet guys:

I think you're mixing up the torque and power lines Dundan. Power is the red one, and rises gradually to ~175kw and stays there until redline. Torque is all over the place. Weirdest torque curve I've ever seen. What's with the dip at the start?!? In fact the flat power curve is very very weird too... That's one weird-ass dyno reading right there. Stick with Dyno Dynamics /me writes down "MDXDYNO... Never use".

http://www.fortheboyz.com/cars/merli/images/mydyno.jpg 100km/h is about 3500rpm in 4th gear... Are you sure? Post your dyno sheet

:bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: I think we're the only two people on Earth who "race" each other when the other person isn't ready, and then declare the win with the hazards :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: I love it :burnout:

Tosh.................. You raced an excel?

poop.

]:bahaha: :bahaha: