blind_elk

I have one from a Stagea (RB25DET) that might suit. In Melbourne.

It's no point pulling the hub, because the CV joints simply expand. You need to "punch" the shaft out of the differential. There is a machined groove in the CV joint - get a screwdriver or similar in there and whack with a sizeable hammer / mallet. It will probably be made more difficult by the fact that the sump is "floating" and has nothing to really hold it in place. It's much easier with the sump attached to the block, but you need to virtually disassemble the RH suspension to get the shaft in and out.

Maybe, but it's a question that has been asked and answered a gazillion times this year. I believe it's a device required for time travel - but it is only available in Deloreans, and then only as an option.

I offered you a FREE one when you first asked. The offer still stands - just come and take it away.

The reason I raised the point is that in my experience the A/C is active at startup, UNLESS you pressed the OFF button prior to shutting down the engine. Have you tried that?

I doubt you will have a problem with the strength of the units. You need to change both diffs (front and rear), and since S15s and GTS25ts don't come with AWD, there isn't a diff set available for the front. The only likely candidate is from the Stagea, but the difference in ratios is so small as to be a waste of time.

What happens during startup if the A/C is off, ie if you turn the A/C off before stopping the engine?

As a guide, I had my RB20DET GTS4 run on a dyno that claimed to be able to calculate fwkw from rwkw. The results: AwkW - 115 RwkW - 145 FwkW - 175

If you simply buy a filter for the induction noise, then there will be a much louder noise eventually - when the engine shits itself from all the dirt and crap it has inhaled. Which one FILTERs best?

RUBBISH. That's only for halogen headlamp globes. Normal glass globes are fine to play footy with!

The bearing itself will be independent of the type of clutch. Just get a standard RB20 bearing.

Check the condition of the bushes in the castor rods. Also, when was the last wheel alignment done. Go see Andrew and the boys at Traction Tyres in Rowville. Or Craig a Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

It CAN BE DONE. Simply mark the belt where it matches to the TDC mark on the "current" cam wheel. Remove the camwheel, then align the mark to the TDC mark on the "new" cam wheel, then pop the wheel back onto the front of the cam. Might need a spot of stretching, but it's not impossible.

It's not a problem of the wheel not having a centring ring (it does), it's that the spacers are lacking the matching half of the design.

I'll put my money on a smashed ring - this then allows any boost pressure to pressurise the sump and pump oil out the dipstick tube (after the dipstick gets launched). Been there, done that.

Sometimes the globes deposit a silver coat on the inside of the glass - severely cuts down on the ability of the light to get out. Pull the globes and replace if necessary. The other possible cause is a bad earth on one side.

300ZX TT runs same brakes and pads as the R32s

Are you looking at unloading the complete package (car + engine)?

Not being able to boost almost always points to a loose connection in the induction plumbing. And get a bloody fuel pressure regulator!

I usually use the engine cross-member, or sometimes the front of the castor rod (where the bush is).

There should be a manufacturers plate attached, which gives a Month / Year manufacture date. All R32s, AFAIK, ran speedo cables (R33s introduced the electronic speedo)

How old is the battery? How long since the injectors were (sonic) cleaned?

Talk to Daniel @ DJM, Burwood - 9808 2590

Then it's the wiring loom onto the suspect coil; check for a minor break in the wire.

I've done it to my GTS4, and I'm still using the standard gearbox. Added a Wolf ECU, and punched 180 kW out all four wheels. And torque - absolutely buckets of it! Well worth the exercise.