adam 32

whats the link for these tests? i wanah have a look... i dont understand how a mechanical boost guage, which is simply measuring pressure from a vacuum line can be more or less accurate...

Was it set at 14psi using the dyno operators guage? Cause that kinda examplifies the inaccuracies in gauges I was talking about. it was all measured using my boost guage

Are you saying that autometer guage's are crap then? ive heard bad things about splitfire but not about autometer, theyre supposed to be good

it can be either front end/input shaft bearing on the gearbox or the spigot/release bearings on the clutch

i aim for 5000kms. got to do it this weekend sometime. i agree with 002 NVS, the car defiantely gets more sluggish come 5000kms!

i assume AFs are fine... other thing to check is timing advance cos this is obviously an ignition problem i know you run a closer gap with higher boost pressure however i dont know how close your supposed to go... at 1 bar (what im running) im going to run 0.8 so i guess you should close the gap more... why is it at 4500rpm? is that when full boost hits? does the car keep going after that point? unforunately there are quite a few things it could be

the pop pop noise is because its running rich as the sparkies arent creating a reliable spark under high boost. ive got the same problem at the moment but have been too lazy to regap the plugs (damn uni exams) 0.6 is too close. i say between 0.8 and 0.9 should be fine. but it depends what boost u running?

ive gone as fast as i want to go in my car... (i think) i duno how fast it was, sitting at about 6500rpm in 5th gear. speedo needle was almost back around to zero

dinesh: i dont think thats a good idea. boost pressure set on the dyno can differ from the road. for example my car was set at 14psi, get it out on the road and its nudging 1.1 bar (15.9psi) i personally think a good guage is the best way to go. it tests the car under road conditions. the same conditions it is exposed to every day

he got sentenced to 7.5 years then?

thats the other thing i was gunah say jimi theres a few things u might wonah do before bolting on the turbo... a good pod filter/panel filter, boost guage, possibly intercooler. id say get a boost guage, pod filter, boost the std turbo then wait til uve got a FMIC and fuel pump to take full advantage of the VG30...

haha jules, as his brother i think it should be your repsonsiblity to keep jimi's riceboy tendencies surpressed... this could get outah hand!

haha shaun, count me in.

please no big spoiler

jimi: easy man, we can do it one afternoon. just need a couple of cans of WD40, those manifold bolts are bitches to get off!! joe: hard, you need new manifold, turbo, intake piping, will kill your gearbox and clutch after a while cos of extra power. just buy a turbo'ed car :uh-huh:

nah its under my name. but its only 3rd party fire n theft which may be why... i just called em up, gave em all my detials and they said yeh no worries give us $250 and your set

i can get hold of a camera if you want... for perth buyers i will be at the cruise on friday and you can see it then

Mechanical Boost Guage 52mm black and illuminates green. can supply with vacuum hose if required. Selling as i bought a different one which reads PSI rather than bar (just a personal preference ) Will accept offers around $30 email me on [email protected] or PM for further detials thanks adam

92

ive seen this in a picture before, possibly a veilside car... make the doors open upwards, ferrari style!! now that is uniqueness (i havent thought about practicality at all here...)

thats exactly the same as my interior

"decal kit" haha you can buy anything on ebay

i agree they need to crack down on these wankers but not at the expense of other hi-po car owners. although it always seems to work out that way... and because of the media exposure the ignorant people are going to immediately assume because you have a fast car your a hoon. i guess all we can do is act responsibly on the roads and hope that just because of a few retards with no social intelligence we dont get hassled

daniel there are 2 measurements that are commonly used, ground clearance and centre of axel to wheel arch. 1) the car must be 100mm off the ground from any structural point, bodykits are not structural. normally the lowest point is the chassis rail. 2) there is a certain distance that needs to be met on every car from the centre of the axel to the wheel arch. on R32's (when i had to go thru compliancing) it is 350mm. this varies from car to car and is about 10-20mm lower than the std height. when going over the pits it depends alot on the overall presentation of the car, if it is a fairly tidy looking and 'tastefully' modified car then you can normally slide through. They tend to pick on riced up cars which are rediculously low or loud...

lowest structural part has to be 100mm off the ground (this is normally the chasis rails) remember the exhaust is NOT structural and therefore doesnt count... see your pm for full detials