Murray_Calavera

Point 3 makes sense about giving the car an actual input vs it's previously assumed ones (GTST's don't have air temp sensors). I just thought it would carry on as it was previously, using the assumed figures, if I didn't activate the correction tables. I agree about the wideband, it's very high on the priority list. My poor R33 has a few other things to fix first but I'll get it before I add any real performance mods (currently all I have is a cat-back & a bit more boost).

Umm from memory it was sitting around 45-50 degrees when idling in traffic and got down to low 40's when driving around. Does that sound right for stock turbo (10psi) and stock sidemount? I wasn't brave enough to push it hard as the tune felt terrible.

I'm using the, I guess you could call it 'standard' delphi air temp sensor. The ecu picked it up straight away as its using the factory GTR air temp sensor wiring now, I checked the main setup for inputs and there was already values there for the air temp sensor. It is a pretty liner table from 0.5 volts (120 degrees C) to 4.47 voles (17 degrees C). Do I still need to change this? I still think it's really weird that its affecting the tune though. I thought it would only affect the tune if I enabled the correction tables?

Did some more reading online, seems like people are tapping the MAF ground into the coolant sensor ground. Doesn't make sense to me needing to tap a ground into a ground but I did it anyway... Still didn't fix anything. Pulled the air temp sensor out and it's all back to normal again. I'm out of ideas.

Hi all, I've got a r33gtst with a haltech platinum plug in, today I installed an air temp sensor and it seems like the car is running rich now. I don't understand why it would affect the tune when both timing and fuel correction is disabled for the air temp sensor. What I've done is, deleted the MAF, wired up the MAF signal and signal ground to the air temp sensor and re-pined the MAF signal to the air temp sensor signal on the ECU connector. The air temp sensor seems to be working perfectly. Unfortunately I don't have a wideband so can't say for sure that it's running rich, but there are flat-spots everywhere now and the popping and crackling on decel are a bit louder now so my guess is its running rich. The car is tuned on VE and I had deleted the MAF ages ago so I know that's not the issue. If anyone could shed some light on this it would be much appreciated!

I'm trying to read between the lines a bit here... So, you are worried about getting fined for driving a turbo skyline on your P's, therefore you don't want to run a sidemount intercooler because you think it will increase the chances of getting caught? If this is the case, just install the factory sidemount and cross your fingers that you don't get caught. If someone (said highway patrol officer) can spot a factory sidemount, they can spot the difference between extractors and a turbo exhaust manifold. So your screwed anyway. Might as well not take the chance on damaging your motor as well. But of course common sense says you've been waiting a fair amount of time already, might as well just wait that little bit more.

This is what I ended up going with in the end, fixed it the best I could. It's not 100% but life goes on.

Hey guys, I'm tossing up whether or not to claim on my insurance for some damage that was done to my car when someone hit it and then didn't leave their details. It's a new Subaru Impreza, I'm pretty sure the excess is about $600. I haven't got any quotes yet but I expect it would cost about $1500 to have it repaired myself. So I'm not sure if it's worth taking a hit to the no claim bonus and having an at fault claim on my record? Also I plan to keep the car for the foreseeable future, so it kind feels redundant to have it fixed when the same thing could happen later on. I dunno, it just makes me sad that its a new car and it would be nice to get it looking immaculate again. Keen to hear peoples thoughts.

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put me down as a +1 please

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I'm keen if it isn't already sold. PM sent.

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Thanks to our host and organisers! Was an awesome day out and good to meet everyone. Looking forward to the next one

If it's not too late to put my name down I'm keen to come

Sold to a good home

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Item Description: t25g turbo from 180sx, used condition and unknown km's. Originally bought as a spare turbo as I'm currently running my t25 at 17psi and figure it could let go at anytime lol t28 turbo from an Aus spec S15, was told it had about 80,000 km's on it. Originally bought this to upgrade from my t25. Both turbos are in great condition with next to no shaft play. I'm not in rush to sell so the prices are firm. Price: T25 - $150 T28 - $300 Contact Details: PM here Location: NSW, Sydney

I totally agree with what everyone has said so far. Just wanted to add something that no one has covered yet. And that is owning a turbo/hi-po car desensitises you to G-forces. You really dont want 0 to 100km/h in 6 seconds to feel "normal" You dont want taking corners at 70km/h (on the street) to feel "normal" You know what I mean? If this is your standard you will get in to trouble very quickly. Inexperience and a hi-po car is very dangerous. If you want to have some fun, up grade the brakes and syspension on your paseo and learn to drive... Buy your Skyline when you are 21+ looking back from then you will thank yourself lol.

IMO I think it would come down to what you want from your car. You said you want to just fill the guards a bit. But is that all you care about? If you want your car to handle well I would stay well away from pedders. I wanted my car to keep its stock appearance, so I got some stiffer springs (stock height) and new pedder shocks (as the old ones were stuffed). But now that I have, strut brace, underbody brace, castor kit, sway bars and polyurethane bushes. The pedders shocks are really letting me down, the handling feels 'nervous' under hard cornering and there is way to much body roll when the shocks go off. If you want performance, stay away from pedders.

... looks like I needed to be told twice before it sunk in, thanks babylon Direct quote from EBC SHIMS - WHEN DO I NEED THEM? Many semi metallic pads (those containing steel fibre) come fitted from the factory or aftermarket suppliers with rubberised metal shims on the back to prevent rattling and squealing. This is because of the type of material they use. At EBC we very rarely use shims because in 99 cases out of 100 we do not get noise, due to the non metallic nature of our pads. In certain cases however and in certain types of use, especially “under-use” shims may be necessary to quieten a pad. These can be obtained from EBC free of charge by simply calling 818 362 5467 and stating the type of vehicle. These will be sent out to you and again reminding you that the installation costs are for the customers account, we do not warranty this fitment charge or consider it part of our guarantee. So either I need to thrash my car more regularly, or I should get a set of shims.

I have been having the same problem with squeeling at low speed braking. I have new RDA slotted roters front and back. And EBC green stuff on the front with bendix ultimates on the back. I think the squeeling is due to dust build up? I only get squeeling on the front, and thats where all the dust is. The ultimates dont squeel or make dust.

Hey guys, (I tried searching but couldnt find anything) A few months back Autosalon mag threw in a free dvd. On it they had the Banzai CRX from high octane overboost. Has anyone else seen this? Short version - They do up a B16 powered CRX, bore it out to 1.8L and force 16psi through it then race it against various cars. The question that has been bothering me is, why could the 600hp R34 gts-t Skyline only do a 14 second 1/4 mile? surely skylines are faster then this?