kwickr33

It depending on what sort of dyno ramp the tuner's running and etc, I think its a pretty realistic result on 15psi. Run that to 20psi you probably see close to 300rwkws. Also make sure the intake and exhaust are pretty free flowing.

Most dump pipes are made for stock front pipes are made for stoc front pipe which has a 2.5inch out let. get the 3inch front pipe and dump in one piece. they are much better option.

After cleaning, the lifters they are still noisy. Has any one attempted fitting a R34neo head on to R33 Rb25det? Also what would I need to get if I'm converting it into a solid lifting system. Thanks.

but interesting thing is they all appeared to be pretty clean thou.

Thanks for the info. I managed to pull out all 23 of them except 1. I found that I didn't needed to tab them out. I Just pulled them apart used square head plyers. How ever there is one that I can not pull it apart. The bit the the center press and spins, but regardless how hard I tab it or pull it I can not pull it apart. Would that be the faulty lifter?

I've just started having noisy hydraulic lifters. The car drives perfectly fine, it just suddenly started to gone noisy. I've pulled out all the inlet side lifters and they seems to be fine. Yes I searched and found this: http://ashspecz.com/Image%20Gallery/Lifter%20Rebuild/index.htm but I'm having issues pulling them apart. Any one actually managed to rebuild them per those instructions? Also could there be any thing else that would cause this issue? ie, oil pump and etc. any advise would be great. Thanks. PS. its stock RB25det with factory engine head

Its called atr43 super street lol. There's an ss-2 which appears to have 3071's response with 3076's power out put. check the dynosheet section. In my opinion thats the cheapest option to get power since every thing bolt on to factory setup. The Kando turbos are cheap option for 400rwkws E85 track machines, on every day road use it’s not that practical, specially with 100% defect rate. Don't hijack this thread, Post your hypergear questions into hypergear's thread.

Did you end up getting that ball bearing turbo tested today? any results?

As far as what I've learnt at Stao's workshop doing my high flow that he used to use the Sierra turbine wheel when he first started, then found its not been able to flow enough while creeping too much heat due to its blade design working with factory turbine housing, cropping it makes it super laggy. He's made a special turbine wheel that is touch bit larger then Garrett GT30s with much larger exducer. Works out to be an 86T GT30 wheel. That made heaps more power while not adding any much more lag. Going by his highflow thread you actually notice he's current high flows made heaps more power then what he originally started. On the comp wheel side they have customized wheels with skinny hub and large blades so in theroy they would flow lot more then what standard Garrett comp wheel would based in the same size and trim. I generally would not be comparing them to other high flows using Garrett along parts. The best way would be tell him what HP you want and let them do the thinking.

Get a 3inch hard intake pipe as hypergear mentioned. The turbo can't build up boost if it can't suck in air. Get an high pressure actuator. That will make lot of differences as stock actuator lets loose at 2psi and fully opens by 7, while high pressure actautor don't starts to open till about 15.

any chance posting your dyno sheet? very interested to see what the GTX35's power curve looks like. Cheers

here they are. 70 pages to read about: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued Their ceramic ball bearing G3 model seems to make pretty decent HP for its reponse. Or just get them to high flow your stock turbo, also makes 270rwkws+ with factory R33 turbo housings.

Found it very strange. A Garrett GT3582 is rated greater then the P5557, That would definitely pull over 300rwkws at 20psi with RON 98 fuel. Also by looking at his dynosheet, his boost tapered off even with external gate set. It indicates the .63 turbine housing is maxing out, I seriously delt that turbo can hold 35psi.

Looks like a old slide high flowed turbo.

might have a popped cooling piping. If not, the turbo probably have lost its rear wheel or broke its main shaft.

Need steel wheels.

Have a mate runs them on 18psi every day. They are good.

Shut up people. twin KKR480 is good. don't you want to see the sort of power it makes?

Aren't the HKS 2835 ProS is the turbo that comes with the HKS GTRS Kit for GTT?

Those are the best results from Status dyno so might be more accountable in some sense. R34 GTRS HKS Red line is 98, Green line is E85 GCG OP6 High flow Hypergear's OP6 high flow

Its also not been equal that you are running on a "NZ dyno" with all the enchantments for better response. This also made you the most responsive 3076R .82 int gate through out Australia. Far better then some with cam gears and external gates. Run that on Status dyno and see what happens.

Your AFR's looks abit too rich thou... The green afr looks more healthier. Once you bleed out some of that fuel it will give you lot better power curve all around. I mean unburnt fuel burns inside your exhaust which can also cause high exhaust gas temp, plus they can thin and carbonate (make it black) your engine oil. I wouldn't worry about the engine at 15psi as long as its tuned detonation free. Factory pistons and con-rods have no issues handle 300rwkws detonation free. I would get it retuned to about 12.3~12.5 consistent AFR with bit more timing. That saves you fuel, improves driving ability, won't carbon coat every thing and do the enviroment a favor .

Looks like your tuner's trying to stop it from going over 300rwkws. Never less good result

Theoretically bigger gate will divert more heat, Get the HKS 50mms with the twin spring setup. That will hold boost nice and flate.

Comparison of RPM VS Power VS Boost of some of their works with over 600 dynosheets collected for 7 years man. They are realistically outstanding. I mean there's no one ever managed to get 250rwkws with 18psi by 2500RPMS or 290rwkws with 200rwkws by 4000RPM, 320rwkws full boost by 4300RPMs, or a high flowed stockie that does 305rwkws. All with stock setup and pump fuel. If no better results are there with the same setup, then their claim aren't entirely false till some one else did better. Garrett made their turbos to suit a large range of engines. There are plenty of room for customization suiting a specific engine setup for optimum result. That also doesn't mean what they've made would fit or runs better on other engine setups. Like I said earlier, that sharp tip off looks like electrical caused, get that fixed, and I'm looking forward to see some results from that new ceramic BB high flow.