MBS206

Looks normal A boost controller will just cause worse AFRs, but the extra air, still allows for more power. 2 ways to fix the AFR issue really, ECU change, or an adjustable fuel reg.

1500KMs since Start of january this year... Was off the road for some repairs at start of the year, but the last 6 weeks I haven't had it started.

I've only ever had good dealings with coppers. Been pulled over twice recently, both times when I've f**ked up. Since then, I've basically taken the car off the road, and changed my driving habits. Car is off the road until I make it all legal. (No, I wasn't defected, nor was the bonnet "popped" in either instance, both were for driving f**k ups and the coppers wanted words with me... One ended in a fine, the other a stern warning) Before that, it had been nearly 18 months BEFORE that, that I had been pulled over, and copped a defect notice, but, the copper was nice, and the thing that made him suspicous, was I had 2 missing wheel nuts, but he actually went through and gave legitimate reasons for the defects, (Well, except for one, but a FMIC does look like a cheese grater... Just the factory radiator support is going to do more damage... Ah well) But all of my dealings had been good, and I had a good history with the force until recently, of which I f**ked up, which, will probably bring me under more suspicion for a long time to come, until I can show that I'm not being an idiot...

So, just to keep the NA boys happy with there good fuel economy. Car: R33 GTS-t Engie + Mods: RB30DET, valve job, small set of cams, light weight fly wheel, T04R + 6boost mani, Plazmaman FMIC. Highway economy: 17L/100KM... City Economy: 25L/100KM... The ability to press the loud pedal and put myself in the backseat... INSANE... Yes, that fuel economy is why as of tomorrow night, it won't have been driven for 6 weeks, and why it has also only been started for around 15 seconds a week ago. Goes in for a tune in just over a week hopefully.

If you're going to be running a MAP sensor, and doing it STRAIGHT AWAY (Like when you put the "little filter on" and tune it straight away) then it will be perfectly fine to run with a "little filter on" If you plan to attempt to drive it even for 20 minutes with the AFM and stock ECU, you won't get far at all UNLESS you block the pipe with some duct tape for a short time, and screw the adjuster screw all the way in and unplug the wires on the IACV and then adjust the throttle so it's partly open when you let off the throttle so that the car will idle.

From experience, without the o-rings on, the motor floods.

You're telling me you can't change your plugs with the strut brace on? Do you even KNOW how to use a socket set properly? I've done mine before with the intake pipe still on there also. (Yes, straight over the motor pipe!) they're piss easy, and DO NOT take 1 - 1.5 hours to do!

You've most likely forgotten to put new orings on, which would have probably been removed when they were cleaned...

Considering it's revving to 7200RPM by those graphs... I'm going with a worked LS2 due to the revs + torque

They're used to replace either the inlet air temp sensor, or replace the water temp sensor. Both are just a resistor (Available at Jaycar for around 10cents) and are just fooling your car into saying it's cold, using more petrol, and other such rough running bullshit.

You don't need revs for drifting! If you needed all these "revs" why would the Holden V8 boys be able to compete so well, considering they only rev to 5500RPM... An engine that produces torque, with a well matched gearbox and diff is what you need. Think about it, the V8s frying tyres in second gear at 5500RPM odd, are spinning the rears at 130KM/h... Stock skyline, with a stock gearbox/diff is revving at 7000RPM and only spinning the tyres at 100km/h, match the skyline motor to a V8 gearbox/diff, and what happens, it dies in the ass in 2nd, because all of a sudden, at peak revs, it's attempting to spin the wheels at 165km/h... Affectively attempting to use 3rd gear! But the Skyline (And most Jap cars for that fact) are setup to produce power by the way of revs, not torque.

If I could spend money again (And enough of it) I'd probably have a 6L V8 residing in my bay with a super charger on it personally...

3.0L all the way. Still not fully tuned. I feel from idle I can pull just as much torque, at around 3000RPM I've got slightly less torque (Not MASSIVELY) but hit 4000RPM and it's all over. I run a quite large turbo too (T04R) and it's just so nice. The old 2.5L needed to be really planted mid corner in second to start to wheel spin (Most of the time a clutch kick) the new one doesn't even get on boost and it starts lighting up sideways with everything identical (Tyres, diff, gearbox etc) except for the motor and turbo change... 3.0L also needs so much less throttle and I can pull away from traffic. jumping lanes etc and having to accelerate. the 2.5L was normally drop a gear and open her up to get upto speed. the 3.0L is quite good in zipping up in speed without needing to drop a gear. The ability to light up on the roll in 2nd gear compared to having issues getting wheel spin with out a clutch dump in 1st, and still no wheel spin in second... 3rd gear still spinning in the 3.0L vs only 1st in the 2.5... 4th gear still spinning in the 3.0L in the wet compared to just starting to spin lightly in 2nd on the 2.5L... Basically... The 3.0L shits all over the 2.5L in terms of driveability, torque, power, and once tuned, I'll rev it to the exact same amount... Revs stress a motor alot more then torque. If I make the same power, at 1000RPM less, I'm making more torque then the other guys, and producing less stress on my pistons/rods. Therefore, more reliable. Same cost to build up either (Forged 25 vs Forged 30) and you still come out with more torque, better driveability, etc.

That pipe, from the return line on your BOV. Put some duct tape over it (Alot) and I bet it goes away. Then, go buy a new return line.

What was the readings on the compression test?

Make:Nissan Model:Skyline R33 Milage:171500 (Only 1500 on brand new motor) Transmission:Manual Colour:White Location:Wollongong Complied?Yes RWC supplied?N/A Currently registered?Yes Price:$20 000 (Very negotiable on price...) Contact:0406 962 347 (Matt) Comments / Modifications:RB30 Block, stock internals on RB30 except for Ceramic Coated Pistons. RB25 Head from an R32 RB25DE. Has "small" cams (248 inlet, and 240 exhaust, and from memory around 9mm lift.) with a 3 angle valve job. 6Boost Manifold. T04R/66 turbo. Tial 44mm Waste Gate Custom dump, with full custom exhaust. Exhaust is basically noisiest at idle. And it's not that "loud". Plazmaman FMIC. Intercooler piping is half Plazmaman, half made by Leigh at ETM. (Exhaust was done by Darren at Marshall St Mufflers) Splitfire coilpacks. Engine has 1500KM on it. Car has 171500KM on it. Rego is due end of Jan 09. Advan RG2 Light weight rims. Bilstein Shocks, with GTS4 springs. Has spare standard shocks and springs, along with spare lowered springs. Also have a shift kitted Jatco 4 Speed auto, as well as an RB25DET turbo, and an RB20DET turbo to go with it and spare rims. Adaptronic e420c ECU (Currently requiring a retune) Will sell with my stereo in it as well. Pioneer 7850BT headunit I think is the number JBL Splits. Sony 4Channel Amp JBL 12" Sub. Car also has a FACTORY, non leaking sunroof, and window tint. Images: http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/859/cop...49mediumvu0.jpg http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/382/cop...51mediumro7.jpg http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3636/ds...74mediumxo6.jpg http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4471/ds...90mediummt9.jpg The photos are about 18months old, but the car looks the same, bar sitting slightly higher.

My reference to ride height, was in response to mr Nismo. And I'd be saying your car was one of the nearly stupidly low cars if you only had 110 - 115mm of ride height. Seeing how the legal limit, when completely empty, is 120mm, and when maximum loaded, is 100mm... You had a max of 15mm before you were below legal limit... Something I'd call low. I was simply pointing out, if you read the post I quoted, that a 4" gave more ride height issues then a 3"... Whereas, mr Nismo wasn't trying to state ride height issues with the person running a 3"...

You've got more issues with a 4" exhaust and ride height, then a 3"... And I was talking, perfectly legal road going cars. Not those running screamer pipes or anything. Also, not every 400RWKW car runs turbos or forced induction either. But I have seen FI cars, run with 400RWKW and 3"

Seen enough ~400RWKW cars, with ZERO gain from a 3" to 4" exhaust...

If she's still on her L's, as mentioned, in NSW, she can still drive the Stagea. The restrictions do not apply until she gets her P plates. Also, if you two live together, and it's the only car, you may have very strong grounds for an exemption.

Had same issue when I first bought my car. Had massive amounts of toe in. Sounds like yours could be camber related. Do you have bad un-even tyre wear (Look at your rear tyres before answering this)

Pull your rear rotors off, and inspect the hand brake shoes. Check EVERYTHING hand brake related for signs of hitting. As soon as I opened this thread I thought handbrake.

When you put the car back on the ground, you go around, and push down on all 4 corners HARD so the shocks and springs settle. It's easier then driving it... Also, in NSW, the minimum height the car can be is 100mm, this is when FULLY LOADED. The minimum height it can be when empty, is 120mm FROM THE LOWEST POINT OF THE CAR. But skylines look ridiculous scraping there asses out. Mine sits at factory height... All I want is around half an inch lower.

I put two screw drivers behind mine and just kept "jarring" it, and it just slid of so nicely... They do have to come off perfectly flat (You can't pull the bottom without pulling the top etc)

Pull the CAS and check it. And do a compression check whist you're there.