MBS206

Poor Noddy mobile

Incorrect. UVP in NSW now is fill in your own form to claim it's "worthy" give them a reason for needing it, and they'll provide you with one for up to 28 days. https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/apply-unregistered-vehicle-permit You fill in both of these forms yourself, all that you need to be declared "safe" by the form is: Lights/Indicators Wheels and Tyres (Road suitable) Windscreens and windows intact/legal Suitable seats/seatbelts Working Brakes Working Steering Working Horn. Odd that you don't need an engine... Maybe flinstones style is allowed with a UVP. Ha ha! Point number two on those saying you need an ACT and a NSW one to drive from ACT to NSW, you do NOT. NSW accepts ALL other states, and NSW ones are accepted in ALL states except WA. It's all noted here: http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/unregistered.html

Mythbusters proved it http://actiontyres.worldsecuresystems.com/latest-news/effect-of-tyre-pressure-on-fuel-consumption

My 2 cents from replacing the front radiator support, surprisingly it is actually a highly structural piece of kit. I bought a car with the front of one bent in, like you're described. I removed the spot welds and ripped the old one out, the worst part while it was out is that the whole front of the car can and will flop around. Putting pressure up on one side would twist the whole front out of place. To me, this means if you've reduced the structural integrity of that piece, you've weakened the front end a fair bit. I've also got another R33 with JUST the radiator support cut out between the head lights and it retains a LOT more integrity as the metal behind the headlights is still in place. So really it depends on exactly where and how bad the bend is as to what I'd do personally.

That epically sucks that it was stolen! As an alternative that Neil and I spitted a few years back at the Australian Hill Climb champs, a guy was using boat rollers with a bracket bent up that slipped through the floor of the trailer. It meant the strap was all above the trailer deck and easily accessible, and it merely required four holes per wheel to be drilled in the deck. This also means no climbing under or over the deck. Ie super easy to do up in the pissing down rain!

I wonder if I can get someone to pay for this for me for my birthday... Then I just need to finish off the reo bar... Hmmmm...

if you find it, let me know.Eiji, ill send you an sms tomorrow following your PM response (sorry only just read it!)

is there anything in your race calendar at this stage other than the hill climbs?

Hey Mitch, I've got a spare T56 with short shfiter and standard clutch sitting round pending what you have spare to pay? Message me if you want. Other wise, AWESOME build. I never finished mine, can no longer justify the dollars

Thats so they can get you to buy this one also Duncan http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nutserts-Nutsert-Rivnut-Tool-M3-M6-Steel-Stainless-Aluminium-PNT-110-Pop-Qty-1/330987360326?rt=nc&_soffid=200&_soffType=SaleAndClearence&_trksid=p5731.m3795

Injector wiring loom? Radiator? Coil pack wiring loom for S1? I have more random stuff I will need, but I can't remember them all... LOL

Try to keep the condensation out

All good, I just need some cheap injectors, and stockers would have been perfect!

Do you still have the standard injectors? Or only the AM ones?

If you can afford to ans have the space, buy a shipping container. The car will fit in it and its like a lock up garage. You can get them starting from around $1,000 if you have contacts, $2500 and upwards if you don't.

Just run two fat cables to the rear. Put a battery box in. Leave everything else in normal place. Bug heavy item is now in the bar of the car and you haven't stuffed with the other looms. Actually one epic cable to the rear would suffice.

I towed a skyline with my FG XR6T once. That's one of the reasons I sold it.To avoid it eating the auto gearbox you pretty much had to sit at 80KMH only. That's the reason ford has the limit on it as it knows the auto will eat itself when loaded up that hard. Trust me, mine did. Also look at the 80 or 105 series cruiser. If going for a daily go the 105. Petrols are cheap, and the straight diesel 105s are cheap too. Aftermarket turbod 1HZ 105s in good condition can be had for between 15000 and 20000 if you look properly. Mine loves to tow, have had it loaded up so far with around 3T on the ass (moving plant equipment). If you will never want to leave the black stuff for anything more than a dirt road, look at the 100 series cruiser. The 1HD fitted cruisers are more expensive but much more powerful diesel. If you only have low amounts of money but can spend more on fuel the 1FZ petrol in the cruisers is VERY capable. If you're looking at patrols avoid the 3.0L, avoid the 2.8L, get either the diesel 4.2 or the 4.5 petrol. Personally I prefer the GU over the GQ especially if you wanted to drive it daily.

Next time I go down Mint Bush road, ill get you photos of the pot holes on it. It makes the posted pot holes look like they could be filled with a pebble.

I'm free Saturday Neil... Need me to bring my hammer?

I may need to invest in a set. Need to do bushes on both Sarah's car and the cruiser. They look like they make the job so much easier! Now to find a tall jack too...

How well do you think that bush pressing kit would work in an actual hydraulic press?

Did you put a cable tie on your tail shaft?

he's probably installed them all in the stage by now

So many wires for a car that in the end requires so few! From memory a 7core trailer wire should be enough to run everything from front to rear. Overkill if you only need parkers, brakes, and fuel pump trigger!

I don't feel or dodge pot holes. I also make sure I get every puddle on the way to and from.