MBS206

May god be with you if it's as cold and windy as it was last year at the FatzLap day...

Somehow I only JUST saw this and it looks like it's full

Advice, if you want it to last, keep it as close to standard as possible.

Overtake mode works that from around 70KM/H if you open the throttle up completely, it'll add in an extra 10% of Torque for 3 to 5 seconds. I'm not sure if it's in the autos only or not though.

FG XR6T runs 10PSi of boost, except under "Overtake" conditions, at which point it will run 11PSi, oh, and you'll know when you reach over take conditions, an extra 10% boost on the 4L is a lot more air flow. BA and BF run 6PSi. IIRC the Typhoon runs 12 or 13PSi standard. Also to all of you comparing power, think of it this way, the XR6T redlines at just on 6Grand, standard making peak power at 5500RPM... Convert your torque levels and the 4L is putting down roughly 20% more torque... And that is what wins a race. Not to mention, when stock, an FG is making 553NM of torque at 2500RPM and holds that power flat to 5500RPM...

Sorry Genelle, but No. A skyline with FMIC, full 3" exhaust and extra boost will get hosed by a stock XR6T, especially if its an FG. I have an FG, completely stock except for heavy as f**k 19" rims, cheap ass rear tyres, bodged the launch, and still ran a 13.005... Rolling runs from 70KM/H no way will the 33 keep up... Not to mention, change just the dump pipe on an R33 and tune it to suit (If you don't retune they won't really run as the ECU is very finicky) and you're now easily running flat 12s. There is actually an FG dead stock running 12.2 down the quarter. Completely and utterly stock. On the roll, especially with an auto, they're freaking QUICK cars. Punt it into a turn, sorry to say, but a fresh redo of the suspension (To standard) in an R33 will also get hosed by an XR6T, especially if you add water into the mix. It's surprising how quick they are, even more so when you make all things equal. As to the OP in question, I wouldn't bother wasting your fuel against him. You will lose unless he's a dunder clump that can't drive...

ANd now since you run a oil coated filter, welcome to the world of constantly cleaning your AFM.

They didn't, they rounded it 1 million...

I wasn't going to give you an LS1... But Twin -7s on mine would be nasty... And I'm at the "Build the exhaust manifold" stage...

Nice rims! And if turbos are coming off... I know an LS1 that would like a set of -7s...

Flutter is for the win! Bending blades... LOL

Noel, hearing those two speak together is unbelievably awesome! Well worth the money just for that.

$209 for 6 months or $390 for 12 months.

It's hiding behind the lounge.

FYPWas definitely worth going last year. Although I'm not sure Uncle Duncan's batteries have enough distance to get him down to Marulan yet alone around it and back home...

That's where the mount is... The question is is the fire extinguisher in the glove box...

SAU NSW has done a day there. They lost money because people didn't want to turn up. Fatz: Where'd you mount the fire extinguisher in this one?

Call Neil, tell him to pull his finger out, I'll try have mine going too...

Dude, everyone has said to not do it in here, you know, the kids who play with RBs all day? The only ones saying do it are the ones who are going to be ready to piss them selves laughing when you make about 150HP... Feel free, go ahead and do, we'll be here waiting to laugh...

its probably uni holidays.Someone claims they know what they're talking about in building engines... Still wants advice off "backyarders" on how to build engine... Lol

The track is the best place to learn how to drive it, and it's the only place you want to drive it hard. Take it out to a Texikhana too, very good for learning your driving skills.

Well Al, you and your 1500HP GTR seem to know everything, so how about you f**k off and waste your money making no power? You seem to like quoting a lot of stuff yourself, like quoting paper without actually knowing what you're on about yourself. You claim in one post that the 25 or 26 head will flow more, then you go on to claim the RB30 head will. (It has to flow more to make more power, think about it for a minute)

The 30 may have two big valves, but the 4 valves in a RB25/RB26 head mean more valve area which = more air flow = more power. Secondly, 120% VE? BWAHAHAHA... You know this guy is trying to tell you that each time your 2.5L engine completes a full cycle, it's really taking in 3L of air... Or in a very simple terms, running 3 - 4 PSi of boost? It's nigh on impossible to make an NA engine 100% VE, yet alone 120%! Edit: I did some light digging, and it appears the RB30E runs a 42mm valve, while the RB25 runs two 35mm valves... (WOAH! The RB25 is smaller... Wait... We knew that) What this works out to is the RB30E has roughly a 130mm^2 valve area (I have not subtracted the very tiny amount for valve part going back up to the head), whilst the RB25 retains a 219mm^2 valve area... Now what does this mean... The RB25 for the exact same air speed, can actually draw in MORE air then the RB30... Or, to make this simpler, to get the same amount of air in, to make the same power, the RB25 has a lower air speed (The opposite of what you've said) Also, if valve sizing was idential, an the RB25 had a high air speed (Like you've claimed) what you're actually saying is the RB25 head allows more air into the cylinder. This is good. Why is this good? Because you can shove more fuel into that cylinder, to keep the AFR identical. More fuel and air in the cylinder when it comes to ignition, means a bigger BANG... A bigger bang means more power. You've provided yourself with all of the evidence as to why an RB30 head on a RB25 bottom end will be completely terrible. Not to mention, there is nothing majorly different between porting an RB30E head, as to an RB25DE/DET head. Which begs to question, why is your engine builder charging you three times as much to port your RB25 head over what he says he'll do for the RB30 head?

There is no way of saying what boost to set the car to to avoid R&R. Mine used to R&R at 8PSi. Why? Because I had an efficient intake and exhaust. The ECU goes spastic at a certain AFM voltage depending on RPM. AFM voltage is all about air flow, (Cubic feet per minute for example of air flow). Boost pressure is all about a restriction. Restrict the exhaust, and then at the same boost pressure you'll make less power. Why? Less Cubic Feet Per Minute of air flow. For the sake of your turbo, set the boost below 10PSi. For performance sake. Set the boost on a dyno, and still keep it below 10PSi.

so Kats not on the commuter as its 2013.I believe Eric has te website up and running, but I believe he and other execs are busy with other higher priority items. Please feel free to offer some assistance to the club if you feel things in a purely voluntaril club aren't happening fast enough.