TiTAN

id rather have an ETM or 6boost manifold personaly. eg. an ETM manifold.

but we finish up so close to its home. do you think they will notice?

last time they just had to sign their life away and wear a helmet.

if you drive it right you can get down to 11-12L per 100km in town. i recently managed 10.24L/100km doing mostly highway driving.

it all comes down to how you drive it and how its tuned.

Somehow i managed to not notice that there is a hole behind the water pump (sort of where the thermostat sits) that has nothing in it. does the opening need to be used when its put into an R33 GTS-T (i noticed on an R32 RB20 it has what looks like a heater hose coming out of it?) or should i just fit a welsh plug?

RB25 TO4Z

Full boost @ 4000-4500?

Or if you have a symbian S60 phone you can get that and more by using an ap called race chrono found here --> http://www.racechrono.com/ which is 100% free.

You should have seen the way she was provoking the bigger dogs.

$6500 is also too small for 3 litre.

SR20? or CA18?

or you can get someone to chop off the 26 flange and weld on a 25 one.

What about that yellow stagea with the R34 front end? ch33se? or has that been sold?

maybe i should have added the N1. i would just assume if you are going to build up your engine you would put a better oil pump in considering how vital the oil is to its operation.

the 26 doesn't have the front oil feed for the VCT. but if you are just going to use the complete 26 you don't need to worry about that.

There are other issues with putting the 25 head on the 26 block. No oil feed for the VCT on the the block (external feed required + modification to the head) The RB26 uses larger head studs than the 25 does (26 studs wont fit the 25 head without modification and 25 studs wont screw into the block) Cut your losses sell the 25 head and use the 26 head on the 26 block or buy another 25 block if you really want to use the head that badly.

Yeah the distributor assured me it was wasted spark...i doubted it...runs good on all cars we have tested it on though. It can be also programmed to run clever features like map/temp so it will only access parts of the map as car heats up...for example on start up restrict you to a 5000rpm rev limit and as car warms up open more and more of the map. Any news on the other questions?

If you are fitting an N1 RB26 oil pump you need to get the crank machined and a larger oil pump drive fitted (crank collar) as the standard oil pump drive on an RB25 is ~1/2 the length of the R33/34 RB26 ones. the easiest way to do that is just take it out to pro engines in qbn and get them to do it.

noticeable in the idle?

Why use the RB25 oil pump when you could use a 26 oil pump that will take more abuse for not much more? The only cranks that dont need it are R33 and R34 GTR cranks (and a couple of late model R32 GTR cranks) All the RB20, RB25, and RB30 cranks need the longer oil pump drive if you want it to last.

Cubes, How much do the regrinds normally go for?

Guilt-Toy, out of interest how much for a tune that passes emissions testing?

Slightly different contents and intended use there GTS4WD.

Roy, except that you only get 70cc more with the RB26 as it has a capacity of 2568cc and the RB25 has a capacity of 2498cc