TTT

It's still Summer in QLD mate.

CAS gone Turbo gone Fan on HOLD Alternator and EX manifold still available.. Make an offer.

CAS gone Turbo gone Fan on HOLD Alternator and EX manifold still available.. Make an offer.

will this beat an NA S15 or NA R34?

Mate your lower back is heading for an injury. It gets loose as soon as you put pressure through it. Just before the weight breaks the floor, your lower back, just above the top of your arse, lifts. It needs to be tight.. Tight as R31 owners. If I were you I wouldn't be going any heavier till you sort out that form issue. Watch your vid again. It's not just your 4th rep (although it is worse than the others), it's on all reps.

wife gets bites that swell too. and she is alergic to all the repelant stuff. lose lose situation

should have told her to straddle you koala style as you need more weight to make it worth it. PS - if you fail to do a few reps this way it may not be as impressive, but funny for passer bys

hmmm Birds is right.. Naming convention chart required.

arse dyno you reckon?

that's what I thought too. not saying it can't be done.. I'm saying you won't be saying "putting on weight and losing it is easy as shit" when past 30 It's not just age related, it's also what happens in peoples lives in their 30's... You'll see what I mean. It's just not as "easy as shit"

around 280rwkw easy? lol how will his "Hypergear PU highflow (non SS1)" make 280rwkw easy when everyone elses larger turbos are averaging 260?

wait till you young f**ks get over 30 and then try to lose weight like you do in your 20's... In for a rude shock.

Yeah man I can pick you up and take you there. let me know when.

heat up the return hose and push it on the end of the bov.. or lube it up a little

lol.. all the wankers got owned.

yeah fairly big difference.. research this forum and all posts will say that people make a small adapter and just force it on. but the hoses are so old that as soon as you try to put it back on they split. well mine did. no biggie though... just no heater for winter.. not such a problem for Brisbane.

Will take GTST air box if sale falls through.

I paid someone to do mine. 20 out, 25 in, stock 25 ecu in, AC regassed, PS pump cut across from 20 to 25, new radiator and hoses (mine was coocked and gooped up too). I kept the 20 box edit - the heater hoses are different size. and mine were made back in 1989 so fell to bits. Currently bypassed till I can find replacement ones.

Maybe some more of that rusty shit in your system has blocked up where ever it was leaking from. Perhaps your system already had some of that seal up stuff in it from a previous owner. After driving it around with new coolant mixing up with old coolant it has finally all mixed up and sealed up again. Consider yourself lucky or unlucky depending on how you look at it. If you want to be certain, get a mechanic to do a co2 sniffer test.

at idle, the car won't get to operating temps. even after 20 minutes. and if you have an old thermostat which probably doesn't seal properly it takes AAAAAAAGES to warm up at idle. Another thing.. when the water temp is 63 degrees, the temp gauge gets to halfway. Thermostat is supposed to open at 77.5 degrees if I remember correctly.. regular operating temps while driving or stopped in traffic will be about 80-85 degrees. That stock temp gauge does not move off halfway until water temp gets to 103 degrees. then, once it gets from 103 to 107 the guage starts to move towards teh 3/4 mark. at 117 degrees it touches the HOT line. the time it takes to go from 103 to 117 is about 20 seconds if your car is f**ked, and then you blow that gasket good and proper and possibly warp your head and other awesome stuff. I can almost assure you that if you go for a drive till it gets to proper operating temps, it will start to misfire again as that gaskets opens and water gets in to the combustion chamber and gets burnt up (white smoke out the exhaust and that awesome hot coolant smell). You are going to have to do one of the options I listed no matter what. just a matter of when. There is another way to confirm blown head gasket if you want. there is a CO2 sniffer kit you can buy from auto stores or just take it to a mechanic to do it for you. it gets attached to the radiator opening and after about 1 minute of running the car with it on there, it changes colour if it detects CO2 (exhaust gas). go for a drive (stay close to home and an eye on the temp gauge) see if it changes once at temp.

If this is the first time you change the coolant in your motor, then what was in there might have been what was keeping your gasket together so to speak. Question for you and a few things you can try to.. 1.) did you just drop the coolant and then close the drain then put new coolant in or did you do the process properly? Things you can try - and it depends on how much cash you have and how much you care for the boat anchor motor that is in there. I'll separate them in to catagories for you.. OPTION 1 I have $50 and need to use the car and don't care too much about this motor go to super cheap and buy 2 bottles of "car go - Seal-up" - about $15 each - smaller bottles also buy 2 to 4 5L bottles of deminerilized water (about $5 each) Go home. remove radiator cap Undo the that pissy drain hole in the bottom passenger side of the radiator and let all the coolant drain out in to a tub (don't flush in to the drain) close the drain hole. move the car to a place where you don't mind getting water and coolant (lawn). pull the bottom radiator hose off the radiator side and engine side stick garden hose in to the radiator. turn on the tap. watch the water come out the bottom of the radiator. keep watching till it comes out clear (or close to) NOTE: If your coolant overflow tank (next to the battery) is all brown, remove the battery, remove the plastic tank and jam the hose in that and flush it all out as clean as you can too. turn the tap off and let it all drip out. put the overflow tank back. put the radiator hose back on - connect at both radiator and engine ends and tighten. fill the radiator with the bottles of water you bought (it will only take 1 bottle) Start the car get back to the front and keep filling the radiator (it will take a little more) remove bolt from the bleed hole on the manifold - FAR left of this picture where the little gold sticker is - that bolt there Keep topping up the radiator till water comes out of there in a steady flow rather than just spit and bubbles. once water flows from there, put the bolt back in and tighten it. Drive your car around your block a few times till it gets to operating temp - KEEP AN EYE ON THE TEMP GAUGE if it gets up to 3/4 mark, shut it down. Once home, let it cool. Repeat all of the steps above. Once you get to the stage where you are about to drive again. Get your bottle of CAR GO SEAL-UP and shake it, shake shake it like a polaroid picture. when it is all mixed up, slowly add it to your radiator. add the whole bottle. close radiator cap. Go for a drive - 40 minutes. NOW. at this stage the instructions on the bottle says "dump the water and fill with long life coolant" But I can tell you from experience, this will just open up the hole in your head gasket again. I left that shit in my engine for over 1000kms without a problem. so I suggest (in this tight arse section) that you leave it at that. you carry a towel, socket set, 5L bottle of the demineralised water and the other bottle of seal up in the car with you just in case. OPTION 2 I have a sick obsession for THIS RB20 and want to keep it Either do it yourself or take it to a mechanic but if it were me, these are the things I would change 1 x headgasket 1 x 100K service kit 1 x radiator 1 x radiator hose kit reason for the 100K service kit is that the water pump and it's bearings would be turning to shit with the rusty water that has been in there for god knows how long. if replacing the water pump, you'll be removing the timing belt so replace it, if replacing timing belt, replace the idler pulley etc etc. new radiator - water is rusty because the 20 year old radiator has gunk up to it's eyeballs - having it cleaned by a radiator shop costs over $150. new direct replacement ebay ones cost $139. rediator hoses - again, your ones will be lined with poo. OPTION 3 I have a sick obsession for RB20s but don't trust this one buy RB20det and install/have it installed PLUS do all the things in OPTION 2 OPTION 4 RB20det is teh Gay - I need an RB25 Buy RB25det and install/have it installed (need RB25 ecu and some wiring work) PLUS do all the things in OPTION 2 what I did was - Option 1, followed by option 1 again, then Option 4 minus the 100K kit. and here endeth the novel.

Can't wait till these drop to EVO 6 price range... another year or 2 maybe.

that's old skool. bin tang beer singlet is the new black I believe. here is a regular Finance First member..

I'm freaking OUT MAAANNN!!!

There is a QLD section on these forums - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/28-queensland/ There is also another website where most of the QLD members are.. www.sauqld.com