GTS4WD

I think the most important question you should be asking yourself is "how much am I prepared to spend?" In terms of an NA car you need to spend some money to net a half decent gain. You need to focus how well the air flows in and out of an NA engine. The best gains to to be had are in cams. Have a look around the net for a set of aftermarket camshafts ($600 odd new). To get the best gains you'll also need a pair of adjustable cam gears for both the inlet and exhaust camshaft ($300 odd a pair new). Do you have a S1 or S2 R33? I can't tell from the pic. Because whether or not you have an NVCS will also influence cam gear choices. The final item to tie it all together and tune the engine is some form of engine management. Now, personally I cannot justify an entirely new ECU system for the 20-25odd KW gain your going to be getting. A simple Apexi SAFC to tune and set the engines increased demand for fuel will suit without a problem. Once all this is done, an upgrade in fuel pump is proprably a good idea too as the demans placed up the OEM pump are significantly increased and the unit is probably getting warn down after 15odd years of use and abuse - DET is cheap, easily found and is more than enough for your application. If you get this far, have a chat to your tuner as the injectors may be starting to struggle at this point too. $100 odd and you got yourself a set of second had RB25DET injectors. Cheap upgrade. Its a relatively cheap set of modifications you can perform to gain a half decent power figure. Even with jsut 125kw your increasing engine performance by 25% which is a fair whack. Its a place to start. From here on in things get expensive. Your looking at taking the head off, porting, polishing, increasing engine CC's, compression ratio's etc. and its bloody expensive.

I too am shocked. Id love these wheels! Unless you want swap stock R32 GTR's with brand new high quality rubber and cash your way, its free bump Best of luck!

How much diffrence does the Project D strut brace make?

my problem occours at very low aspeeds and only full lock. Anyone shed some light on the situation?

ANyone have information on filling chassis rails with fom?

I get the same, on full lock. My CV's are in good condition though

Definately, In Aust, thermo is a must.

Your nobs worn. Sorry.. Couldnt help myself

Mate. Its not really all that big of a job. I have done 2 RB conversions already. If your mechanically minded, with a decent skill, space and tools its not all that tough.

Can you upgrade the 32 computer to a 33 or 34 so as it scans for loss of traction at the higer rate like the 33's and 34's? Anyone? Cheers

BAHAHHAHA @ Donny and his redneck friend!

Well if you getting a front cut. Then its literally a cut and paste job. The only thing you'll need to work your way around is FMIC pipeing and fuel pump

bumpski in the nightski

Whats the diameter of the disk? 34's have bigger disks

Yes. They use the same ATTESSA as GTR. Its not the exact same gearbox as GTR (shorter gears) but stronger than GTS You will have to upgrade fuel pump to match the 26's needs. Other than that. Its all very straight forward

Yeah, R32 GTS4's have different lower mounting cups on the rear suspension than GTST. BUt same as GTR

Yip. In the 33's and 34's 5% of th torque is constantly being sent to the front wheels. Also, the 33's and 34's track the G's speed, angle etc. at a quicker rate - every 100th of a second vs the 32 at every 10th of a second

and to confuse ATTESSA with a 4WD. ATTESSA (the driveline system used in GTS4's and GTR's) is completely diffrent to a 4WD. ATTESSA, in normal conditions sends all power to the rear wheels - just like a normal rear wheel drive car. When G sensors sence a certain amount of G's in any 3 dimentions (up-down, left-right, front-back) and also speed, steering angle and road speed vs RPM differences, a certain percentage of power from the rear wheels will be sent to the front wheels. This will continue till traction is re-gained and then power will be re-sent to the rears. Diffrences in GTS/T vs GTS4/R include: Gear box Transfer box Front diff Front drive shaft ATTESSA ECU (all the things used to drive the front wheels) As well as a "Front Wheel Percentage" gauge inside the cabin (in the gauge cluster for GTS4's and part of the 3 piece gauge cluster for GTR's) Thats about it

Dori32; I love it mate! Its a strange old vs new school! Somethings very different from other 34's!

Fixed back bucter seat without a doubt! Followed by a close second of heavy duty clutch!

Gosh. Under 3 seconds!? There only are a hndfull of stock cars in the world that are that quick. None of them anywhere near this price. Awesome just got better!

Top pointing out is Positive

BAHAHAHA! it looks like the new 3 series. massive body with tiny wheels.

Hey! Aleast you have awesome camber now! In all seriousness thoug, shame to hear mate. I know what its like to see the carnage the next day. Its tough. How serious is the damage? Suspension arms damaged? Is the strut tower damaged? Hope it all goes well mate. There are people wrecking R33's every second day on the forums. Just see if you can get their stock bits. Hopefully it wont mutilate furture wheel alignments.

If your going to install a pod and dont want to be sucking even more hot air from the engine bay in, a cold air intake is the only way to go. In terms of gains, not much. You may feel a little more responce, but very minor. Remap. Nope. The ECU with adjust to such minor changes in intake