STATUS

check coolant level, they hunt when the water pulses through the IAC. check vacuum leaks.

i wont touch the id2000 copies sooo many failures... worse still is the seats wear and the injectors change over time. this is the only injector we use for 2000cc and over http://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/injectors-c49/siemens-2433cc-injectors-p218/ the real ID700s seem to be excellent as a mid size and the delphi 1400cc which are also unmodified are a much better choice for lower requirents.

the internal volume of the std 26 rail is more than some of the aftermarket rails. Once dual feed modified they generally flow more than the mechanical limits of the engines they are attached too.

by something decent like emtron and it has fuel density, pressure and temp as part of its fuel model.

leave it, just tune the AIT figures correctly..

used 1000s of them, the single pintle side feeds can be a temperamental for idle quality and it seems to be batch dependant.

pod filters fine, no need for a box really.

piss the thermos off and fit engine fan and shroud, job done... you wont miss 2kw

30-50ml so about 10-15 tanks per bottle http://www.vpracing.com.au/product/vp-m2c

Pumps, lines and rails. Great if its not a daily, stops any moisture related anomalies.

a sure fire way to check if you have erroneous knock levels is to start the car with the peak set on knock monitor if its reading 40-60 you know its useless.

POWERFC doesnt have limp home mode so something is amiss.

we run the same setup in our vk with no issues on ethanol. if your worried just add some VP M2 additive to each tank and you will be sweet.

a-must-read-for-budding-tuners-or-those-interested-in-knock http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/344581-a-must-read-for-budding-tuners-or-those-interested-in-knock/

your PFC doesnt have or need the "base" map as its Maf based. Tracer will work if you tick all the log boxes in the monitor screen, also turn on your map axis or they will just read n01 no2 no3 etc.

yep i wont even tune a car if its not fitted.

yeah they are the pierburgs and seem to be far more reliable (yet to see one fail) and less amp hungry but they are smaller like scotty mentioned.

http://www.amazon.com/Sensor-Composition-2012-2013-CADILLAC-13577379/dp/B00XJ7UQ8M/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15B7Y0GX3F1K6BYRKJ59&dpID=41-PhFvZlKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_ http://www.amazon.com/Russell-644123-Quick-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B005C6KTNK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P0Y5SZXFRFXHNQX6TQ7&dpID=31AWmnNpr9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_ from memory the delphi core part number is 15326808, just double check that number but you can get it from a myriad of places. locally: http://x-on.com.au/keywordSearching.aspx?kword=15326808&gclid=COyEusqEwcgCFdh6vQodKWgNMw

the one i listed was genuine... tested identical to the GM conti sensors

generic bosch

turbo, cooler and exhaust all have an effect on what timing you can run, a dyno is the only real way to tell what effects more or less timing are having. More importantly a good knock monitoring system is paramount. many rb20s would eat them selves with that timing table.

prob detonation your hearing.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251958096362?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

put in bin before it kills oil pump.

7yrs and 275rwkw on RB20