STATUS

id have something close, i do plenty of GTR'S around that power but you will 100% need a CAN WBC kit and a set of knock ears. if your interested in a base i could help out [email protected]

My laurel had std tanks lines and everything, E85 no surge and just ran a walbro 400lph intank pump with 1000cc ID's and 26psi.

the gizzmo controller works fantastic if setup right... just as good as the greddy one.

get it warm and pull the plugs. run a small mirror over each plug hole and see if it gets any condensation on it. report back

i dont believe in pre pump (bosch) filters... they all have in built screens. i have had to remove plenty of pre pump filters due to flow issues. ours is only under the car as i also hate feeding surge tanks with lift pumps if its not necessary, gravity does a great job and the simple setup above will not surge ever .... in fact we have run it dry at 2 events without warning lol

we use earls filters on the outlets of our 044s with one way valves and push close to 600rwkw, they should not the problem.

yellow jackets are junk but that rant side lol, the SMIC is your issue, 3 or more pulls will usually see intake temps creeping to scary heights even as low as 10psi. Put a front mount on and it will repeatedly run the same power and take far more timing (15-20 more kw with timing and another 2 psi). 178rwkw is not far off what it should be, in fact it is almost spot on for a SMIC result with an accurate dyno. put it this way we wont tune R34, stagea or S chassis cars with SMIC fullstop. but that the cas can show similar symptoms.

take a roll of wool and tape out with you next track day and suss out the flow across the bonnet.

bellmouth dump is the go and make sure flapper doesn't foul flange... its quite common

give Ray a call @ Gizzmo great guy with great products.

drop it back a bit 5ms at 13-14v is asking for trouble

We tune at least 5 or 6 Nistunes a week minimum and they are fantastic on cars the ecu was designed for R32, R34, S15, S13 etc. No matter what anyone says the z32 ecu conversion is junk, so many trimming and 3 party background skews that they never EVER run perfect. R32 GTST with feature pack A/C or LED vct output is a better option. Pfc is an even better option on a RB25. I love nistunes and we are one of their biggest customers but the z32 ecu conversions are no good.

yeah we do mostly dry so that we have 100% control.

you dont need it off the line generally its easy enough to make 20-25psi with a decent launch strategy in the ecu...with a manual

I was informed there was a few broken links to the sound files so i have linked them to the reseller of the knock box who has some great examples. http://theknockbox.com.au/the-knock-box/sound-recordings/

works killer best mod ever for big laggy turbos. even a 50hp shot can bring a big turbo on so much earlier. Full throttle switch, arm switch and rpm switch are necessities, a decent ecu should have it there ready to go.

Its not locked it only has the hand controller set to stop unwanted changes. PFC cannot be locked... only the hand controller.

yes it can.

The PFC can be tuned extremely well when the map sensors are fitted correctly (drilled and tapped into runners, if you just run them off the vaccum bar your gonna have a bad time. There are 2 sensors for a reason.

Yeah GTR TB and plenum. Just like a rb26 only better.

420rwkw (564rwhp) Std NEO, std manifold externally gated, hyper gear turbo @27psi. Run 420rwkw on Springy motors dyno and on my dynapack. Credit to their work, welding is awesome (HAVOC fabrication) id1000cc (increased base pressure) dual walbro 400 pumps std cams and springs Hypergear ATR45SAT splitfires would not hold up but D514a work fine at 0.8mm Haltech plat Pro with wideband and flex sensor. E85

420rwkw std neo std ex manifold ex gated. D514a coils are my choice. Installed and welding by HAVOC FABRICATION