STATUS

Water meth is awesome! BUT only if you have sufficient fall back measures literally one pull without the WMI working will turn the engine inside out. Its UBER important to make sure the ecu can pull timing or shut down the minute the WMI system falters or runs dry.

also use a plug wire between coil and plug, if you use the back timing loop and dont know the trick it will give an incorrect reading.

Just remember with SAFC that pulling fuel automatically ADDS timing so make sure you know what your doing.

just check the top diameter they might be to large to fit in std rail.

2.5mm in contact tip height.

yup most of the time we run coppers in street cars around that power but in anything serious that pushes the std coil packs or splitfires we up the spec to the race plugs otherwise you will change them like underwear plus you will get more timing in consistently with a finer tip.. very important in circuit cars where the large electrode in a std copper plug will want to induce pre-ignition.

performance isnt cheap.... that said those plugs listed above have been in a circuit car for 3 years and are still mint at 35psi

WOFT, dont bother... add an extra pound of boost for the same result as a 1.5k port job.... see it all the time.

they are sard 650 cc low impedance 100% which are just a re-branded oem item you have listed the OEM DENSO numbers.

divided sucks, bellmouth is superior everytime.

still buggy.

sorry i forgot to add the part number NGK R7434-8

you need injectors and afm, nistune are great (we are one of their biggest customers) but not on r33, go powerfc. We pull 2 or 3 nistunes out of r33 a month that have been tuned elsewhere that just dont perform right. The dont work properley as you have to retro fit another ecu from R32 or Z32 into the r33, there are certain background trims that can play havoc that are not adjustable.

Handsdown the best plugs though. Getting years out of these in full racing conditions. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152504535921813&set=pb.728171812.-2207520000.1434853900.&type=3&src=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-xap1%2Fv%2Ft1.0-9%2F10931336_10152504535921813_3784371114340491290_n.jpg%3Foh%3Da3758414d35a6731f5381a1579750dae%26oe%3D5623096C%26__gda__%3D1445863737_568bcb1f0af99d51b67908776474fa90&size=960%2C720

bkr8eix @0.55mm should do the trick, over 45psi in these without issues whereas the coppers would not light the pot and gapped under 0.6mm the coppers generally wont idle and cruise as crisp

NIce Job!!

have you logged coolant pressure? could be lifting heads and blowing them out

sweet engines and a great result!

GT2860-9s std cams with e85... match made in heaven.

AFR TARGET AFR AFR ERROR IGN TPS BOOST AIT ECT INJ % KNOCK sensor 1 and 2

if plugs are wet i reckon the lower oring is nicked on the injectors or you pulled the injectors out of the rail whilst the rail was in the car and all the fuel emptied into the cylinders. Try start it with your foot to the floor, will take upto 1min of cranking before its starts.

twin rb25 is great for resolution. twin z32 are generally over kill (unless needed) and in many setups you end up using only 1/2 to 3/4 of the scale and lose tune resolution. i would much rather the AFM scale be @ 90% max than at 50% max

set the injectors to 450 and try that, it will all be changed once the tuner plays with it anyway. sometimes they go a bit lean with the full 550 on the std map. other thing is the orings could be weeping and over fueling.. check for black smoke instantly smoke after startup

http://www.haltech.com/product/can-devices/can-wideband-single-channel/

A customer had a similar issue with those cams in a r33, fitted procams and the noises disappeared.... never heard the outcome unfortunately.